So this stitch has a bit of a story to it. Ironically, I designed it completely by accident. I love experimenting with new lace stitches, so that’s what I decided to do one day. I completed a swatch, and I thought it looked cool. But I had no idea what to call it.

I put a picture on my Instagram account with a Question sticker and waited. To my surprise, people started responding that it looked just like little Eiffel Towers! I was a bit confused—I hadn’t noticed that at all! But when I looked closer at my swatch, I realized they were right. It did indeed look like that! It was a good reminder that there are often more than one way to look at things. In this instance, I was so thankful that other people saw differently than I did!

This stitch is apart of the Desert Blossom Stitch Along, which is running throughout all of 2019! We are more than halfway through the year, but you can still jump in now if you’d like to! Be sure to view the master list of stitches released so far by clicking HERE, or join the community in my Facebook Group HERE.

You can also get an easily printable version of this stitch pattern, plus 3 OTHER stitch patterns (all the ones in August!) when you click HERE. This PDF is inexpensive and ad-free.

How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch

Let’s jump right in!

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

Notes

• Stitch pattern is multiple of 4+3
• Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc

Materials

You can potentially use ANY yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here’s what I used:

1. Premier Yarns Everyday Baby
2. G/4.25mm crochet hook

Instructions:

NOTE: For a picture tutorial going along with these written instructions, be sure to view the video above! It will show you pictures to help with any tricky steps. You can pause it at any time if you need to focus in on a given step!

Fsc a multiple of 4+3 (to start with a chain stitch, you’ll need a multiple of 4, and then one row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next fsc. *Sk 1 fsc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next fsc. Sk next fsc, dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 1 fsc left. Dc in last fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *Sk next dc, dc in next dc. Ch 3, sk next ch-2, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *Dc in next dc. Ch 2, sk ch-3, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Like this pattern so far? Be sure to grab the PDF containing ALL of August’s stitch patterns HERE!

Row 4: Ch 1 (does NOT count as sc, here and throughout) sc in first 3 dc. Sc in next ch-2 sp. *Sc in next dc, sc in between the 2 dc, sc in next dc. Sc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 3 dc left. Sc in last 3 dc. Turn. NOTE: after this row, you should have the same amount of sc that you started out with in your fsc row.

Row 5-6: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next sc. *Sk 1 sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc. Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Rep from * until 1 sc left. Dc in last sc. Turn.

Rep rows 2-7 for stitch pattern!

I hope you have enjoyed learning this fun stitch pattern.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch appeared first on .

Can I just be completely honest? I have been overwhelmed lately. I’ve been doing SO much in the Anthem Growth Year program, that I haven’t been able to keep up! As much as I hate it, my blog has taken the back burner.

Thus, I did not release this stitch on Saturday—it just totally slipped my mind! I am trying my best to keep up. A huge thank you for hanging in there with me during this busy season! Hopefully you’ll still enjoy learning how to crochet the coral stitch today.

Now that we’ve got that covered…let’s talk about the Coral Stitch! This stitch was inspired by the whimsical, lopsided shape of coral! I know it’s not an exact representation, but it at least reminded me of it.

The stitch utilizes stitches of different heights to create the coral “bumps.” I hope you guys enjoy it!

You can get an easily printable version of this stitch pattern, plus 3 OTHER stitch patterns (all the ones in August!) when you click HERE. This PDF is inexpensive and ad-free.

This stitch is apart of the Desert Blossom Stitch Along, which is running throughout all of 2019! We are more than halfway through the year, but you can still jump in now if you’d like to! Be sure to view the master list of stitches released so far by clicking HERE, or join the community in my Facebook Group HERE.

How to Crochet the Coral Stitch

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

Notes

• Stitch pattern is a multiple of 2+3
• Ch 4 at beginning of rows counts as tr
• Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as sc

Materials

You can potentially use ANY yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here’s what I used:

• Caron Simply Soft
• H/8 Hook

Instructions:

NOTE: For a picture tutorial going along with these written instructions, be sure to view the video above! It will show you pictures to help with any tricky steps. You can pause it at any time if you need to focus in on a given step!

Fsc a multiple of 3+2 (to start with a chain stitch, you’ll need a multiple of 3, and then one row of single crochet). 

Row 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st, here and throughout) sc in first 2 fsc. *Sk 1 fsc, (2 tr, 1 dc) in next fsc. (1 hdc, 1 sc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 3 fsc left. Sk 1 fsc, sc in last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr, here and throughout) tr in next st. Ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in tr. *Ch 3, sk next 4 sts, sc in next tr. Rep from * until 1 st left. Ch 1, sk next st, tr in last 2 sts. Turn. 

Like this pattern so far? Click HERE to get the PDF version, with 3 bonus stitch patterns!

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc. Sc in next ch-1 sp. *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Sc in last 2 tr. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. 

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc. *Sk 1 sc, (2 tr, 1 dc) in next sc. (1 hdc, 1 sc) in next sc. Rep from * until 3 sc left. Sk 1 sc, sc in last 2 sc. Turn. 

Repeat rows 2-5 for stitch pattern! End on a Row 4 for a clean finish. 

I hope you have enjoyed learning how to crochet the Crown stitch. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

If you want to get new stitches and other free patterns straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list!

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Coral Stitch appeared first on .

Read on all about my inspiration, design process, yarn and more—or scroll down to get directly to the free pattern!

So, the Lunar Lace Tunic…this one had quite its ups and downs! However, the finished result turned out almost exactly how I pictured it at the beginning, which is awesome!

I designed this pattern for the Celebrate Mom Blog Hop hosted by Pattern Paradise. It was so much fun to create an elegant pattern I knew my mom would love. Which, by the way…my mom modelling the top for me! She is such a blessing to me, and this top is now hers to keep!

To view all the Mother’s Day themed patterns included in this post, be sure to check out www.pattern-paradise.com!

I designed this top using the Cathedral Stitch—a free stitch tutorial that is apart of my Desert Blossom Stitch Along. From the very beginning, I knew that this lacy stitch would work wonderfully in a summer top, so I set out to figure out how to bring my vision to life.

It took quite a bit of frogging to get it just right…but I finally did! It also took an extra order from Knit Picks because I ran out of yarn…but I think it was worth the extra money.

Want access to more free patterns, plus an insider freebie vault? Sign up for my email list below!

Speaking of yarn…here is what I used!

Knit Picks Galileo

Okay you guys. This yarn…is so beautiful. It’s a sport weight, springy blend of Merino Wool and Viscose. Galileo has a nice softness to it, but it’s also bouncy and has great drape! Plus, who can say no to gorgeous jewel tone colors? Besides this deep blue, Galileo also comes in a lovely peacock, deep ruby red, and more!

As always, this is just a reminder there is also an ad-free, PDF version of this pattern available! This version is super easy to print, and overall will allow you to make this top with less hassle. Grab it HERE or click below to view!

Lunar Lace Tunic—Free Crochet Pattern

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE.
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE.

Materials:

• Knit Picks Galileo Yarn: 6 (7, 8, 10, 10, 11) balls.

• Or sport weight yarn in the following yardage: Approx. 750, 850, 950, 1,200, 1,250, 1,350) yards
• G (4.25mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• F (3.75mm) hook (or one size smaller than hook that obtains gauge).
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Sizing:

Sizes shown are S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

To fit bust size: 32-34 (36, 38-40, 42, 44-46, 48)”

Finished bust size: 38 (41, 44, 47, 50, 53)”

Pattern is designed with 4-6” of positive ease. To choose your size: the “to fit” measurement is just a guide. To better determine your size, look at the finished bust size (this is the exact finished measurement if you get gauge) and decide how much positive ease you want. Extra positive ease won’t hurt, as this is designed to be a loose fitting top.

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 32”, wearing a size Small.

Finished Measurements

Width of front and back panel (AFTER blocking): 19 (20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26.5)

Gauge:

16 dc = 4”

9 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

Make a gauge swatch as follows:

Fsc 21.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across.

Row 2-4: follow rows 2-4 in front panel instructions.

Row 5-7: follow rows 11-13 in pattern.

Rows 8-10: follow rows 2-4 again.

BLOCK your swatch, then measure gauge as follows:

For width, measure across the ALL DC row in the middle; here, 16 dc should equal 4”. Next, measure from the first lace row up to the last row (9 rows total). These rows should equal 4” as well.

Notes:

1. This top is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides and shoulders. 
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc.
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc.
4. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M-3XL in parentheses.

Instructions:

FRONT PANEL

Ribbing

With F hook, ch 12.

Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in BL of ea st across. Turn.

Rep row 2 for a total of 50 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70) rows.

You will now be working along the side of the band.

Change to G hook. Sc 75 (81, 87, 93, 99,105) across side of band. (You will need to do approximately 1.5 sc per row of hdc).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in ea st across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next dc. Sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc. *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. *Ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk ch-3 sp. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Rep from * across, till 2 dc left. Sk next dc, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in first st and next 5 sts. *Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. Sc in next 5 dc. Rep from * till one st left. Sc in last st. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next st. Ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3, *sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sk next sc, dc in last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc. Ch 2, *2 dc in next dc. Dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts. Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. *Sc in next 5 dc. Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. Rep from * till 2 sts left. Sc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next sc. 3 dc in next ch-2 sp. *Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * till 2 sts left. Dc in last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 9-10: Rep rows 3-4.

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in next 5 sts. 2 dc in next ch 2 sp. Dc in next 5 sc. *Dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 5 sc. Rep from * until 1 ch sp is left. 2 dc in next ch sp, dc in last 6 sc. Turn. 75 (81, 87, 93, 99, 105) dc Note for clarification: The two edge ch spaces have 2 dc worked into them, but the rest of the ch spaces have only 1 dc.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in ea st across. Turn.

Row 13: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn.

Rows 14-25: Rep rows 2-13.

Row 26-37: Rep rows 2-13 once more.

Sizes will now be split up into separate instructions.

Sizes S, M, and L: Rep rows 2-4 again. Then, repeat row 11. Turn. Move onto v-neck.

Sizes XL, 2XL, and 3XL: Rep rows 2-11 once more. Turn. Move onto v-neck.

Begin V-NECK

Row 1: Sc in next 37 (40, 43, 46, 49, 52) sts. TURN, leaving rest of row unworked.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc for v-neck) Dc2tog. Dc across row. Turn. 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51) dc.

Row 3: Ch 1, Sc across row until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50) sc.

Rep rows 2-3 a total of 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12) times more. Then rep row 2 once more. Fasten off. 18 (19, 20, 23, 24, 25) dc.

Size Adjustment Tip: You can absolutely change the size of your v-neck! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired length, and then repeat row 2 once more to finish. If you’d like a shorter v-neck, you can subtract from these rows as well. Just keep in mind everything will stretch when blocking!

Other side of V NECK

Row 1: Go to base of v neck. Sk 1 st. Sc in ea st across.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc until 3 sts left. Dc2tog, dc in last st. Turn. 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51) dc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog. Sc in rest of sts across. 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50) sc.

Rep rows 2-3 a total of 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12) times more (or until v-neck reaches the same length other side). Then rep row 2 once more. Fasten off.

BACK PANEL

Rep the same as for the front until you reach the v-neck. Then, continue as below:

Next row: Ch 1, sc in ea st across.

Next row: Ch 3, dc in ea sc across.

Rep these two rows until you have done the same amount of rows as other side of the v-neck.

ASSEMBLY

With right sides together, lay your front and back panels together. Sew the shoulder seams using your desired seaming method. Sew side seams, leaving a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)” arm opening. (Sew along dotted lines shown in picture below!)

FINISHING:

Join yarn at the back of the neck and sc all around the neck opening for a nice finish.

Weave in all ends and block to finished measurements: top should measure 19 (20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26.5)” across. Be sure to get a consistent width across.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Lunar Lace Tunic—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

This light Spring market bag, made out of cotton, is the perfect way to carry your fruits and vegetables, “go green” by avoiding plastic bags, and yet stay stylish at the same time!

This pattern is also the PERFECT way to put the stitches in the Desert Blossom Stitch Along to practical use! This stitch sampler bag uses 4 of the stitches from March! Read on to see which stitches are used.

As always, you can grab the inexpensive, ad-free version of this pattern in my store. A big thanks ahead of time to all who purchase! It’s such a huge support to me & my small business.

Also, can we take a minute and just admire my tester’s version of this bag? The colors are gorgeous, don’t you think?

Here are the stitches used in this bag:

#1: The Foliage Stitch (will be released next Saturday!)

#2: The Fir Stitch (aka the V-Stitch

#3: The Sprout Stitch

Like this pattern? Sign up for my email list to get new free patterns right to your inbox!

March Market Bag

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Notes:

1. Ch 2 at beginning of rounds does NOT count as st
2. Ch 1 at beginning of rounds does NOT count as st
3. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds does count as st
4. Bag is worked in joined rounds from the bottom up.

Materials:

• Approximately 300 yards of sport weight cotton yarn
• Sample yarn: Patons Grace, 2 skeins  
• F/3.75mm Hook
• Yarn needle

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Royalty Scarf 2/ Liberty Bell 3/ Helena Shawl

Measurements:

Approximately 14” tall (not including strap) and 13” wide.  

Special Stitches:

Double Crochet 4 Together (Dc4tog): *YO, insert hook into next st, YO, pull up loop. YO, draw through 2 loops. Rep from * 3 times more. YO, pull through last 5 loops on hook.

Beginning Double Crochet 4 Together (Beg Dc4tog): Ch 2. YO, insert hook into next st, pull up loop. YO, draw through 2 loops. Rep from * 2 times more. YO, pull through last 4 loops on hook.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Single crochet 2 together – sc2tog

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Half Double Crochet 2 Together – hdc2tog

Double crochet – dc

Triple crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Instructions:

Ch 3.

Rnd 1: 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to beg hdc (NOT the ch 2).  

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as hdc, here and throughout) 2 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. (20 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. (30 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (50 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (60 hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (70 hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (80 hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (90 hdc)

Rnd 10: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (100 hdc)

Rnd 11: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (110 hdc)

Rnd 12: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 13: Ch 2, hdc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk 2 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Ch 1, sk last 2 sts, join with sl st to beg ch 3. (40 2 dc clusters).

Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same st as sl st. 2 dc in next dc, sk next ch-1. *2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. Sk next ch 1, Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. (160 dc).

Rnd 16: Beg dc4tog over first 4 sts. *Ch 2, dc4tog over next 4 sts. Rep from * around. Ch 2, join with sl st to beg dc4tog. (40 dc4tog).

Rnd 17: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, 2 dc in next dc4tog. Rep from * around. Ch 1, sl st to beg ch 3. (40 2 dc clusters).

Rnd 18-19: Rep rnds 15-16.

Rnd 20: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp. *Hdc in next dc4tog, 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 21: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in ea st around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 22: Ch 5 (counts as a dc, ch 2) dc in same st as sl st. *Sk 2 hdc. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next hdc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, sl st to beg ch 3. (40 V-Stitches)

Rnd 23: Sl st in next ch-2 sp. Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) dc in same ch-2 sp. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * around all ch-2 spaces. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. (40 v-stitches)

Rnd 24: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next ch-2 sp. *Hdc in next 2 dc, hdc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 1 dc left. Hdc in last dc. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (40 hdc)

Rnd 25: Ch 4 (counts as tr) 3 tr in same st as sl st. Sk 3 hdc. *4 tr in next hdc, sk 3 hdc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 4. (30 4 tr clusters)

Rnd 26: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st and in each tr around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 27-29: Rep rows 22-24

Rnd 30: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next 5 sts, Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. *Hdc in next 6 sts, hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (105 hdc)

Rnd 31: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next 4 sts. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. *Hdc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (90 hdc) Do not fasten off.

STRAP:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk 2 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. Rep from * 9 times more. (11 2-dc clusters) TURN.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout strap) dc in next dc. Sk next ch, 2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. *Sk next ch, dc in between next 2 dc. Sk next ch, 2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. Rep from * 3 times more. Sk last ch, dc in last 2 dc. TURN.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 1, dc4tog over next 4 dc. *Ch 2, sk next dc, dc4tog over next 4 dc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Ch 1, dc in last 2 dc. TURN.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does NOT count as sc, here and throughout strap) sc in first 2 sts. Sc in next ch sp. *Sc in next dc4tog, sc in next ch sp. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Sc in last 2 dc. TURN. (15 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next 11 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. TURN. (13 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next 9 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. TURN. (11 sc)

Row 7-33: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts. TURN. (11 sc)

Go back to the beginning of the strap—Rnd 31. Sk 14 sts. Join yarn with a sl st in next st. Then repeat rows 1-33 for the other side of the strap.

Finishing: Sew the 2 ends of the strap together. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Thank you so much for purchasing this pattern! I hope you have enjoyed it. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post March Market Bag—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can read my introduction to this series HERE. Or view the first three patterns in the series HERE.)

Believe it or not, we almost didn’t come to Niagara Falls. At first, it was decided it was too far away from our other stops in New York City, Washington D.C., and Pennsylvania.

Want to see lots more patterns like this? My email list subscribers are the first to see new patterns!

However, it seemed too amazing of a sight to miss when we were so close (an 11 hour drive!)

It took some major changes of plans, and the loss of some money due to cancellations…but here we are! And it has been SO worth it! See one of my favorite views below:

Unfortunately you can’t get good views without a fence, unless you’re getting wet! We did do the Maid of the Mist boat tour, which was spectacular! We got right up close to the falls. However, we were wearing giant rain ponchos to keep from getting soaked, so definitely no pictures there.

The Yarn

So, the yarn I used for this cardigan is Creative Ewe Bamboodles. This is a bouncy, drapey summer yarn from Creative Ewe.

I loved working with this yarn. It’s extremely soft, and it has a certain sheen to it I’ve never seen before with plant-based fibers. It’s a bamboo-cotton mix, making it perfect for summer.

I used the colorway Blueberry, but there are tons of beautiful colors to choose from!

Get Bamboodles for yourself HERE!

Other Patterns in the Travel Series:

1. New York Sign / 2. Liberty Bell / 3. D.C. Roses       

All right, I bet you’re ready for the pattern! And I’m so ready to share it…so here it is!

Niagara Cardigan

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free version of this pattern, click HERE

• Materials:

• Creative Ewe Bamboodles, 4 skeins. Or approximately 800 yards of similar yarn (Bamboodles is a sport weight yarn, but I would say it is one the lighter side. You could also use a heavier fingering weight. Please note, however, that substituting yarn may change the drape and fit of the garment. I highly recommend Bamboodles!)
• G Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Notes:

1. Cardigan is made out of 2 rectangles seamed together on the back and the sides.
2. Beginning Ch 3 always counts as a double crochet.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Sizing:

Small: to fit Bust size 30-33″

This cardigan is only available in a size small. I may put it in larger sizes in the future (if there is interest. If you would like to see it in larger sizes, please let me know! Your feedback is appreciated).

The cardigan is, however, very easy to adjust. Follow instructions below.

To make cardigan bigger:

Width: add to the foundation rows of the panels in multiples of 3.

Length: simply add more rows to each panel.

For reference, model is 5′ 3″ with a bust of 30″.

Measurements:

1 Panel, before blocking: 38″ long, 10″ wide

Panels will stretch at least a couple inches once blocked.

Gauge:

6 shells and 8 rows = 4″

Instructions:

Panel (make 2)

Fsc 48 (or a multiple of 3)

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Rows 3-75: Repeat row 2.For a longer or shorter cardigan, simply add/subtract rows here. However, note that, once blocked, the cardigan will be slightly bigger.

Finishing:

Lay rectangles out next to each other and sew up halfway.

With Right Sides facing, Fold the rectangles in half and sew up the sides, leaving a 7-8″ space for the armholes.

Lastly, weave in ends and block your cardigan. To review the different blocking methods, click here. I used wet blocking for this piece.

That’s all there is to it! Throw your cardigan over your shoulders and go rock it at Niagara Falls!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE.

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

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If that’s you, I am here to tell you that you CAN make lace. Trust me. If you can do basic stitches—chains and double crochets—you can make lace. Many people think that only experienced crocheters can do lace. However, crochet lace is actually very easy to make! Don’t believe me? Keep reading to learn about four types of crochet lace for beginners!

Crochet lace is probably my favorite thing to make. There are so many variations, and all of them are just so pretty! When I was asked to do a guest blog post for Janne from Joy of Motion Crochet, I knew instantly that I wanted to do it on lace. Like I said before, crochet lace is perfect for beginners. Most types are made from simple stitches like double crochets and chains.

If you are completely new to lace, check out the guest blog post I did on Joy of Motion Crochet, How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. There, I will give you some more info on lace.

If you are already familiar with lace, that post is for you as well, as I also give some tips on learning to design your own crochet lace. Janne has an amazing site, and I would love for you to check it out!

Crochet Lace for Beginners

• To pin this post to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To get an ebook of 13 lace stitch patterns, click HERE

In this post I want to show you the stitch patterns for the swatches I did in How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. Like I said before, these are very easy to make. If you practice making these swatches, it should give you a great handle on lace. Then you can start applying your new knowledge by trying a lace pattern!

Materials:

I used the same materials for all four swatches:

• Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn
• F (3.75mm) crochet hook
• Blocking Materials

Notes:

You could easily use ANY yarn for these swatches. However, if you are looking for a fingering yarn at a decent price, I would definitely recommend Knit Picks Stroll. It is soft, it blocks well, and it comes in a variety of colors.

As far as blocking goes: while it is not necessary, I would highly recommend it. If you don’t know how to block, learn how here.You won’t regret it, trust me! Blocking is one of the most worthwhile techniques you can learn.

About the swatches: I will tell you to start each one using foundation single crochet. This is my preference, and I recommend using this stitch. However, it is not necessary; you can start with a chain stitch if you would rather. Simply follow the included instructions for how many chains you will need, and then do a single crochet row on top of the chains.

Swatch #1: Basic Shells

Now to the lace! This swatch is just about as easy at it gets! The shells are simply made using double crochets stitches. Not too scary, right?

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (learn fsc here!) Or if you would rather start with a chain, do a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Related Posts

• Easy Crochet Lace Cardigan with FULLY ADJUSTABLE Sizing
• How to Crochet the Stacked Shell Stitch
• Easy Lace Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern
• How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in the swatch below). Like I said before, you could easily make this into a scarf by repeating row 1 until the piece is longer.

Do you believe me now? This crochet lace is for beginners! Anyone who can crochet can make this.

Like these patterns so far? I bet you’ll love my ebook of 13 OTHER lace stitch patterns (that use simple stitches just like these! Grab the ebook here.

Swatch #2: V Shells

This shell, also known as a v-stitch, is definitely a must-know. It is incorporated into many types of lace. (For more info on these stitches, don’t forget to read the post on Joy of Motion Crochet!)

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp of shell from previous row. Rep from * across all ch-spaces. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in my swatch).

Swatch #3: Twisted Stitches

I absolutely love the look of twisted stitches. For one thing, they look similar certain types of knitting. At the same time, they are also really fun to make. Once you get the hang of them, you easily get in a great rhythm.

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 2 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 4, tr in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, tr in next fsc. Working behind tr just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in next tr. *Sk next tr, tr in next tr. Working behind st just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 6 rows in the swatch).

TUTORIAL For One Twisted Stitch:

Swatch 4: Pineapple Lace

Out of all lace, pineapple is a classic that I will never grow tired of. I love incorporating pineapples into my designs. Even though it looks complicated, don’t let that scare you off. Pineapples are made of basic stitches.

Instructions:

Fsc 13 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need to ch 14, and then do a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next 2 fsc. Sk 3 fsc, 9 dc in next fsc. Sk 3 fsc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 4 times. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times. Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 2 times. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

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Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next 2 ch-4 spaces. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. 9 dc in next ch-4 sp. Dc in last 3 dc.

Repeat rows 2-8 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 14 rows in the swatch below). If you kept repeating this, it would make a great kid’s scarf!

If you are new to lace, I would encourage you to practice with these swatches! Start with the easiest one, and work your way up. Once you’re familiar with the way lace works, try a pattern! Don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone a little bit and try something new. I guarantee you won’t regret it! If you’re ready to try designing your OWN lace, don’t forget to check out the follow up post on Joy of Motion Crochet!

If you want to venture even further into lace, I have a special offer for you, like I mentioned earlier!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

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