Disclosure: this post may contain Affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. I will not link anything that I have not personally used and love

The inspiration for this shawl came kind of spontaneously. I knew I wanted to use up my Stroll Gradient yarn, so I started a shawl. As I crocheted, the design just flowed out! The great thing about this shawl is that it is very easily adjustable. You can make it as small or as big as you want! Plus, it only takes one skein of yarn to make! Keep reading to find out more about the beautiful yarn I used.

The Yarn

Okay, so lets talk about the yarn. Like I said, I used Knit Picks Stroll Gradient. This is an absolutely gorgeous yarn. It is 75% superwash merino wool, which makes it wonderfully soft and squishy. Plus, it comes in a bunch of beautiful colorways! Each ball has three complimenting colors that fade into each each other. I used the color called spacewalk. As you can tell, it is a lovely combination of blues and purples.

Ready to make this shawl for your own wardrobe? Here are the instructions!

Wave Shawl

 By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this Pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE

Notes:

1. Shawl is one large triangular piece. Pattern starts at the tip and is worked outward, with increases along each side edge. 
2. Turn at the end of each row, unless otherwise specified.
3. When turning, ch 3 always counts as first stitch.
4. For a comprehensive list of standard abbreviations, click here

Materials

• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 460 yards total
• Sample yarn: 1 cake of Knit Picks Stroll Gradient
• F/3.75mm hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends
• Wet Blocking materials (click here for blocking instructions).

Finished Measurements:

This shawl is very easily adjustable. Simply keep repeating the established pattern till it reaches desired size. (More instructions farther down.)

Special Stitches:

V-Stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated stitch.

Shell (sh): (5 dc) in indicated stitch

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), 4 dc in first dc. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. Ch 1, v-stitch in between next 2 shells. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch 1 space) twice. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 6-20: Repeat row 5.

Row 21: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Sh in next ch-1 space. V-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 22: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc of same sh. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 23: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 24: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. NOTE on last shell, you will only skip 3 dc instead of 4. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 25:  Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. Ch 2, sk next ch 2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 26-46: Repeat rows 24-25.

To adjust shawl: simply keep repeating row 24-25 until shawl reaches desired length, then work edging below.

Edging, last row: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in space between next two shells) across all shells. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, and block using the wet blocking method. 

That’s all there is to it—you’re done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Wave Shawl—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

If that’s you, I am here to tell you that you CAN make lace. Trust me. If you can do basic stitches—chains and double crochets—you can make lace. Many people think that only experienced crocheters can do lace. However, crochet lace is actually very easy to make! Don’t believe me? Keep reading to learn about four types of crochet lace for beginners!

Crochet lace is probably my favorite thing to make. There are so many variations, and all of them are just so pretty! When I was asked to do a guest blog post for Janne from Joy of Motion Crochet, I knew instantly that I wanted to do it on lace. Like I said before, crochet lace is perfect for beginners. Most types are made from simple stitches like double crochets and chains.

If you are completely new to lace, check out the guest blog post I did on Joy of Motion Crochet, How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. There, I will give you some more info on lace.

If you are already familiar with lace, that post is for you as well, as I also give some tips on learning to design your own crochet lace. Janne has an amazing site, and I would love for you to check it out!

Crochet Lace for Beginners

• To pin this post to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To get an ebook of 13 lace stitch patterns, click HERE

In this post I want to show you the stitch patterns for the swatches I did in How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. Like I said before, these are very easy to make. If you practice making these swatches, it should give you a great handle on lace. Then you can start applying your new knowledge by trying a lace pattern!

Materials:

I used the same materials for all four swatches:

• Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn
• F (3.75mm) crochet hook
• Blocking Materials

Notes:

You could easily use ANY yarn for these swatches. However, if you are looking for a fingering yarn at a decent price, I would definitely recommend Knit Picks Stroll. It is soft, it blocks well, and it comes in a variety of colors.

As far as blocking goes: while it is not necessary, I would highly recommend it. If you don’t know how to block, learn how here.You won’t regret it, trust me! Blocking is one of the most worthwhile techniques you can learn.

About the swatches: I will tell you to start each one using foundation single crochet. This is my preference, and I recommend using this stitch. However, it is not necessary; you can start with a chain stitch if you would rather. Simply follow the included instructions for how many chains you will need, and then do a single crochet row on top of the chains.

Swatch #1: Basic Shells

Now to the lace! This swatch is just about as easy at it gets! The shells are simply made using double crochets stitches. Not too scary, right?

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (learn fsc here!) Or if you would rather start with a chain, do a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Related Posts

• Easy Crochet Lace Cardigan with FULLY ADJUSTABLE Sizing
• How to Crochet the Stacked Shell Stitch
• Easy Lace Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern
• How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in the swatch below). Like I said before, you could easily make this into a scarf by repeating row 1 until the piece is longer.

Do you believe me now? This crochet lace is for beginners! Anyone who can crochet can make this.

Like these patterns so far? I bet you’ll love my ebook of 13 OTHER lace stitch patterns (that use simple stitches just like these! Grab the ebook here.

Swatch #2: V Shells

This shell, also known as a v-stitch, is definitely a must-know. It is incorporated into many types of lace. (For more info on these stitches, don’t forget to read the post on Joy of Motion Crochet!)

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp of shell from previous row. Rep from * across all ch-spaces. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in my swatch).

Swatch #3: Twisted Stitches

I absolutely love the look of twisted stitches. For one thing, they look similar certain types of knitting. At the same time, they are also really fun to make. Once you get the hang of them, you easily get in a great rhythm.

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 2 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 4, tr in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, tr in next fsc. Working behind tr just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in next tr. *Sk next tr, tr in next tr. Working behind st just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 6 rows in the swatch).

TUTORIAL For One Twisted Stitch:

Swatch 4: Pineapple Lace

Out of all lace, pineapple is a classic that I will never grow tired of. I love incorporating pineapples into my designs. Even though it looks complicated, don’t let that scare you off. Pineapples are made of basic stitches.

Instructions:

Fsc 13 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need to ch 14, and then do a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next 2 fsc. Sk 3 fsc, 9 dc in next fsc. Sk 3 fsc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 4 times. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times. Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 2 times. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

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Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next 2 ch-4 spaces. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. 9 dc in next ch-4 sp. Dc in last 3 dc.

Repeat rows 2-8 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 14 rows in the swatch below). If you kept repeating this, it would make a great kid’s scarf!

If you are new to lace, I would encourage you to practice with these swatches! Start with the easiest one, and work your way up. Once you’re familiar with the way lace works, try a pattern! Don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone a little bit and try something new. I guarantee you won’t regret it! If you’re ready to try designing your OWN lace, don’t forget to check out the follow up post on Joy of Motion Crochet!

If you want to venture even further into lace, I have a special offer for you, like I mentioned earlier!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

The post 4 Types of Crochet Lace For Beginners appeared first on .

If that’s you, worry no more. Trust me–I was exactly like you. I read that blocking phrase and shuddered. I even scoffed, thinking there was absolutely no reason to block. On the one hand, I didn’t have any idea how to block. On the other hand, I had no desire to learn. It wasn’t worth my time, I said.

Do You Have to Block Your Crochet?

So if you’ve heard about blocking, but you’re wondering if you really HAVE to learn it…let me just tell you something.

Although I used to wonder the same thing, I am SO glad I finally learned how to block.

Obviously, you do not HAVE to block your crochet—no one is going to force you to.

But let me tell you—once you start blocking, you won’t want go back. Not convinced? I probably wouldn’t have been either. So let me show you why you should learn this helpful technique.

WHY Block Crochet?

Blocking does a lot of GOOD things for your crochet projects.

It makes the stitches open up—be less crumpled and more drapey.

Another reason blocking crochet is so beneficial is it gives your items a professional look.

Let me show you a couple pictures to get you thinking:

Here is a swatch of a cowl I was in the process of making. As you can see, it is not very attractive, but wrinkled and squished together.

Here is the same cowl laid out while blocking.

And here it is all finished:

As you can see, the stitches have opened up and look both beautiful and professional.

How to Start Blocking Your Crochet

Hopefully the examples above give you an idea of the world of difference blocking can make.

So if blocking is so beneficial…how can you do it?

Well, step one: don’t be afraid! Seriously—if you treat blocking like a scary monster, you will never take the jump and start doing it.

Trust me, it’s not as hard as you might think. I can hardly believe I’m saying this, but I actually enjoy blocking now! It has become a step in crocheting that I look forward to greatly, and it can be that way for you too! Keep reading to learn how to block your projects yourself.

I will show you three easy methods, and walk you through each one step by step.

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Crochet Blocking Mats/Boards

Now, one thing you might be wondering is “do I need a blocking mat?”

While each method of blocking uses different materials, all of the methods will benefit from having a blocking mat.

Notice I used the word “benefit.” It is not absolutely necessary that you invest in mats right away. If you want a cost effective option, just use a towel to block your projects.

However, having a blocking board or mat (it is the same thing) will make the process much easier!

Here are some your buying options for blocking mats on Amazon:

Hephaestus Crafts Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 GRAY Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet. 150 T-pins

$39.99

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04/08/2026 11:40 am GMT

Cheers to Ewe! Foam Knitting Block Mat, Grid Blocking for Knitting Accuracy and Crochet, ½ Inch Thick with 1 Inch Grid, Pack of 9

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Crutello Extra Thick Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 White Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet - Includes Measuring Tape & 150 T Pins

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Wet, Spray, and Steam Blocking

Before we do a deep dive into blocking, let me give you a little summary of the three methods you can use. The first one is called wet blocking. Personally, this is my favorite method. It is perfect for all types of natural fibers, and will ensure that your project can stretch fully and also maintain it’s form after use.

The next method is spray blocking. Spray blocking is perfect for smaller projects, ones that need to be block, but not stretch drastically. Again, this method works for natural fibers.

The last method is steam blocking. This one was the scariest for me to try— but it’s actually not as bad as I thought! Steam blocking is for acrylic yarn, and it will TRANSFORM your crochet experience. I’m serious. The cowl I showed you pictures of was steam blocked; it actually amazed me how well it worked!

So wait no longer! Let’s dive into these methods together!

Method 1: Wet Blocking

Use this method if:

• Your project is made out of any natural fiber
• You have a project that needs to be stretched or shaped a lot

Do NOT use this method if your project is made out of acrylic yarn. Unlike natural fibers, moisture does not affect acrylic.

Materials:

• A sink
• 2 towels (or 1 towel and a blocking board, if desired)
• Pins (rust-proof is best)

Knitter's Pride Knitter's Knit Blocking & Pins Kit

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Step 1:

Fill a sink with cold or lukewarm water. Since you’re using natural fibers with wet blocking, you don’t want the water to be hot. (Unless, of course, you’re aiming to felt it–which would be the opposite of blocking!)

Step 2

Put your project in water, fully immersing it.

Step 3

Let your project soak. You want to let it sit until it becomes completely saturated. I normally let mine sit for 15-20 minutes. If your project is large, you may want to rotate it halfway through to make sure the whole thing is wet enough.

Step 4:

Drain the sink. Take your project and carefully squeeze the water out. DO NOT twist it when you squeeze, as this can cause it to lose shape. Instead, take large sections and squeeze gently, pressing the water out. Note that you will not get all the water out this way. That’s what the next step is for…

Step 5:

Take a towel and roll your project in it. Press down gently all over the towel in order to soak up any excess water.

Step 6:

Take another towel and lay it out flat. Spread your crochet project on it. You can use a blocking board instead of a towel if you’d like, but in my experience a towel works perfectly fine.

Step 7:

Pin your project to the towel. Adjust the stitches to lay exactly how you want it to look when finished. Don’t be afraid to stretch the fabric out a lot—that’s exactly the point of wet blocking!

Step 8:

Let your project dry completely. I usually let mine sit overnight to ensure it is fully dry. Finally, take out the pins, and you’re all done!

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METHOD 2: SPRAY BLOCKING

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made out of natural fibers
• Your project does not need to be stretched drastically
• You need to get your blocking done in a small amount of time

Don’t use this method if your project needs to be shaped and stretched a lot. For that type of project, use wet blocking instead.

MATERIALS:

• Pins
• Towel (or blocking board, if desired)
• Spray bottle

STEP 1:

Lay your project out on a towel (or a blocking board) and pin it down.

STEP 2:

Fill a spray bottle with water, and spray your project until it is damp. (If your project needs to be fully soaked to block and stretch well, you should use wet blocking instead of spray blocking).

STEP 3:

Allow your project to dry, and remove pins. That’s all there is to it!

METHOD 3: STEAM BLOCKING

NOTE: Get even more details about blocking acrylic yarn here.

The regular instructions will be below, but I’ve also added a video tutorial on blocking acrylic below! This is a quick explanation that will hopefully help you even more.

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made of acrylic yarn
• Your project needs to be stretched a lot

   Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel or blocking board
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking board. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like the lace cowl I showed at the beginning), you will want to pin down. However, with some projects (especially something that’s not lace) pinning isn’t necessary.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting, or your project will MELT. This is because acrylic yarn is essentially made out of plastic. Crafters call this “killing” your project. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is slightly damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And there are your three blocking methods! Not too complicated, right? As you practice each method, it will get easier and easier. You might even find that you enjoy it!

Before we finish up, let’s cover a few more common questions I see people asking about blocking.

Is Crochet Blocking Permanent?

This is actually a tricky question to answer, because there’s a lot of variables that can go into it!

Here is what I have found in my experience:

For wet blocking, the results will wear off with time (especially if it is a crocheted garment!). You will likely need to re-block them when you wash them.

I like to think of this like regular sweaters you might buy at the store that are hand wash only. When you lay these out to dry, it is very similar to wet blocking! In the same way, when you “wash” a crochet project, it will basically be the process of wet blocking over again.

For spray blocking, it also depends on how much wear the item is getting. Since this technique is usually used for smaller projects, you may find that the blocking lasts a long time. However, if for example the edges start to curl, this is an indicator it could use another block.

For Steam blocking acrylic yarn, I have personally found that the results are more permanent than other methods.

Why? The hot steam locks the acrylic fibers in place. In my experience, when these fibers are set, they are set permanently. For example, I have a shawl made from Lion Brand Mandala yarn that I steam blocked. I’ve used it a ton and it has never lost it’s original blocked shape.

Note that this may not be true across ALL acrylic yarns. Your results may wear off with time depending on the yarn.

Another important thing to remember here is that the results of steam blocking will also be permanent if you do it WRONG. So if you kill your project, there will be no fixing it. Remember to never touch the iron to your crocheting!

Should I Weave in My Ends Before or After Blocking?

Generally, I have found that the result is better when I weave in my ends after blocking.

Here’s the rationale behind that: if you weave in ends beforehand, they have the potential to get misshapen during the blocking process. They may unweave when the project is stretched, for example.

This is why I wait until after blocking to weave in my ends. The project is now at my desired measurements and the ends will have a chance to settle into that.

How to Block a Sweater

Now, one thing in particular that people are afraid to block is SWEATERS!

Yes, it can seem scary, but here’s what I want you to remember (once again): blocking is just like hand washing a regular sweater from the store!

The only difference is that if you’re following a pattern, you will want to block the sweater to the finished measurements that are listed.

I found this YouTube video super helpful in explaining how to do this! Note that the example she uses is a knitted sweater…but the concept is exactly the same for a crocheted sweater.

Here’s just an overview of what to remember when blocking a sweater:

1. Always block a sweater to the finished measurements listed
2. If you have long sleeves, make sure you block them to the same length
3. If you use pins, make sure they don’t pinch the fabric in unnatural ways

In Summary…

Blocking your crochet projects is a wonderful process once you get used to it! With time and effort you too can become a pro.

Related: learn what frogging is in crochet and how to do it!

If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to contact me as I would love to help!

To view last week’s post, a tutorial on foundation single crochet, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

More Beginner Crochet

• How to read crochet charts
• Crochet Stitch that looks like Knitting
• Library of Crochet Stitches

The post How to Block Your Crocheting: 3 Methods appeared first on .

I don’t want that to happen to you!

Maybe you feel like foundation single crochet is too hard, that you’ll never get the hang of it. This is a common feeling, and I understand! I was right there with you. However, when I did finally find this stitch, it became my go-to. I hardly ever start a pattern with chains now. Let me show you how fsc can be a help, rather than a hassle. First, I will tell you what exactly foundation single crochet is, and why I like it. Then, I will provide you with a detailed tutorial, perfect for beginners, that should get you using this new stitch right away!

Foundation Single Crochet—What it is

Below you can see a picture of a small row of foundation single crochet. So what is this stitch? Basically, it is a chain row and a single crochet row combined. Instead of forming a chain row first, and then adding sc on top of it, you do them both at the same time. Intriguing? Keep reading to find out why I like this stitch so much.

Why You Should Use Foundation Single Crochet

You will always hear crocheters debate the use of foundation single crochet. Some say it is worthless—stick with tradition, and do a normal chain stitch. However, others say fsc is actually a useful new crochet technique that we should most definitely take advantage of. So who’s right?

I’ll be honest—I tend to side with those who are for foundation single crochet. In fact, I love fsc as a starting row. Here’s why:

1. It gets your chain row and single crochet row done all at once

Does anyone else out there hate that first row after the chain as much as I do? I don’t know about you, but it’s always a huge relief to me when I’m on to the regular stitch pattern. A chain is just SO annoying to stick a hook into! However, like I said earlier, foundation single crochet eliminates that pain. Your normal chain stitch and single crochet stitch is combined into one row. With each stitch, you create a chain and a sc at the same time. Let me tell you—it’s wonderful!

2. It is extra stretchy

Another annoying thing about chains is that they tend to be tight. Even if you try really hard to work them loosely, they end up tighter than the rest of the pattern. In garments, this is especially annoying. If the neck is started with a chain row, it can be hard to fit over your head. Even in a scarf, you will see this. The first row will be very tight, and then the rest of the scarf will be slightly larger than the rest. So annoying. However, (I bet you can guess what I’m going to say…) foundation single crochet is super stretchy! It solves a problem that a chain stitch cannot solve.

3. Lots of “Big” Designers use it

Don’t just take my advice—I’m not the only one who loves fsc! I’ve done a lot of patterns from designers like Doris Chan and Robyn Chachula, who have their work published in Interweave Crochet Magazine, their own books, etc. And let me tell you—they almost always use foundation single crochet as a starting point.

Are you convinced yet? Trust me, once you get the hang of this foundation stitch, you won’t want to go back! It may take some getting used to, but I know you can do it. So grab a hook and lets get started!

More Stitch Tutorials:

• Suzette Stitch
• Trinity Stitch
• Alpine Stitch
• Crunch Stitch

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Let’s get into the details of how to crochet the foundation single crochet stitch! View the video tutorial below, or keep reading for step by step instructions.

Step 1:

Ch 2.

Step 2:

Pull up a loop in second ch from hook.

Step 3:

Yo, pull through one loop. (This step forms the “ch” of the fsc row),

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Step 4:

Yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

You have now finished your very first fsc!

Now, you will see the hook pointing to a space below. That is the “ch” of the fsc stitch. It is the loop you will insert your hook into for the next step.

Step 5:

Yo, pull up a loop in the “ch” space of the first fsc stitch.

Step 6:

Now it is basically the same as the first fsc stitch! YO, pull through one loop.

Step 7:

YO, pull through last 2 loops.

And there are your first two foundation single crochet stitches! Pretty neat, huh? Now all you have to do is repeat steps 5-7 for as many fsc as you want!

Here is my row of fsc. As you can see, I have done my chain and single crochet row all at once.

In this picture, you can see the tops of the sc—it looks exactly like a normal row!

That’s all there is to it! As you keep practicing this stitch, it will get easier and easier. Don’t give up, even if it’s a struggle at first. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Related Tutorial: Learn how to block your crochet projects!

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

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