The Pattern

Right off the bat I’ll tell you…the entire pattern, written in PDF form, is already available. I release the PDF early for those of you who would rather have the pattern all together in one place. This is also perfect for easy printing. Grab the PDF HERE.

P.S. It’s ON SALE right now!

However, if you prefer to wait for the sections of the free pattern, that is totally fine too! Read on to hear the details of how this will work.

PIN THIS POST TO YOUR PINTEREST BOARDS HERE

The Yarn

The yarn used for this top is one of my new favorites…Lion Brand Jeans! Why do I love this yarn? It is worsted weight, but it is the softest, most amazing worsted weight I’ve ever used, especially for an acrylic yarn! Even though it’s worsted, it still makes for an airy, breathable summer top.

You can order your yarn right now by clicking HERE! Note: Lion Brand has 2 different listings for this yarn. The more neutral colors can be found here. But there are also some brighter colors, which can be found here. All of them would make amazing tops!

How much yarn will you need? That depends on your size. This top is available in sizes S-2XL.

Yarn needed: 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Jeans Yarn.

Follow the steps below to choose your size…

The finished bust size of the top (as long as you obtain gauge) is: 33 (39, 45, 50, 56)”

You can go for a few different looks as far as this top goes. If you want a loose fitting top, then choose a size that is 2-3” larger than your bust. However, if you want a more fitted top, go for either a size that is the same as your bust, or go for negative ease by choosing a size 1-2” smaller than your bust.

For reference, I chose to make mine with 3” of positive ease. My bust is 30”, and I made a size Small.

The Community

One of my favorite things about CAL’s is the community that gets built during them. For this CAL, there’s a few things you need to know about the community aspect.

The main place we’ll talk about our tops is in my Facebook Group! Here we can share photos, ask questions, etc. Be sure to join HERE if you haven’t already!

Secondly, I’d love it if you guys share your photos on Instagram! Be sure to use the hashtag #midnightcal in your posts, and tag me @desertblossomcrafts so I can see!

Now that we’ve covered the pattern, yarn, and community, let’s get on to the schedule for the CAL.

Midnight Top Crochet Along

The crochet along spans 3 weeks total. Here is how I have everything scheduled:

Week 1: Read Intro post (that’s this post!) Get your yarn and pattern (if you want the PDF). And finally, join my Facebook group!

Week 2: Part 1 of pattern will be released on the blog. Note: it is now available! Click HERE to view part 1. This week you will make your gauge swatch, and then begin the yoke of the top.

Week 3: Part 2 of pattern will be released on the Blog. Join the armholes of your top and then make the body.

I hope you guys are as excited about this CAL as I am! I can’t wait to see all your tops in progress. Don’t forget to join my Facebook group so we can all encourage each other.

Happy Crocheting!

— Rachel

The post Midnight Top—Free Crochet Along Introduction appeared first on .

Some people love big purses, but I happen to be a tiny-purse kind of gal. My stuff gets lost easily enough in a small purse—I don’t know how I would ever manage with a bigger one!

While we were on our big tour of the East Coast this summer, I knew I wanted to something small and light for my wallet and a few other necessities—so I designed this purse! (Literally, I made most of it on the plane)

I used it throughout our three-week trip, and it held up really well!

The Yarn

The yarn I used for this purse is Lion Brand Flikka. This yarn was so much fun to work with. I loved how the colors made a neat pattern as I worked.

It is a worsted weight cotton, so it has a good amount of durability. My handbag held up well even after 3 weeks of heavy use!

Get Lion Brand Flikka for yourself HERE.

Now for the pattern!

Woodland Tote

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards HERE
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE
• Buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern on Etsy HERE

  MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Flikka Yarn
• G Hook (or a size that gives you a tight tension. You don’t want the bag to be super loose)
• Yarn needle

NOTES:

1. Bag is made from the bottom up and is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds unless otherwise specified.

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch — sl st

Single Crochet — sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round — rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

MEASUREMENTS:

When laid out flat, from base to top edge: approximately 8″

Width at widest point: 6 1/2″

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc) Place marker in last stitch, and move up at the end of each round.

Rnd 3: *Sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: *Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around (48 sc)

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (54 sc)

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (60 sc)

Rnds 11-34: sc in each sc around. (60 sc). At the end of rnd 34, JOIN with a sl st to first sc in that rnd.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in next st. Ch 1. *Sk next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Ch 1. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 36: Ch 1 (counts as sc) sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. (60 sc). Join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

Rnd 37: Ch 1, work the crab stitch (backward single crochet) around. For a tutorial on the crab stitch, click here. Do not fasten off.

Strap

Ch 130 (or ch to desired strap length). I made my chain slightly shorter than I wanted the strap to be, since it did stretch a couple inches after use.

Being careful not to twist ch, sl st to the opposite side of the bag. Turn.

Last row: Sl st across all ch. Do one last sl st to the edge of the bag to secure. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If desired, weave an extra piece of yarn through the open holes in the double-crochet round as a drawstring.

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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Woodland Tote—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can view all the posts so far HERE. Or view the the previous pattern, from New York, HERE.)

Yesterday we left New York for good and went on our way to Philadelphia. We spent all of Monday touring the city, and then made our way to the place we’re staying (which is actually out of the city). It is absolutely beautiful here—so green and luscious. If you want to view even more pictures, make sure and follow me on Instagram! I post lots of fun pictures in my stories.

Anyway…so I crocheted a mini Liberty Bell, and here I am holding it in front of the REAL Liberty Bell. So exciting!

Besides going to the Liberty Bell, we also went on a tour of Independence Hall, where we got to see some neat History.  We saw the very room where America’s Founding Fathers signed the Declaration of Independence, as well as the room where the first U.S. Congress met.

The Yarn

All right, before getting to the Bell pattern, let’s talk about the yarn. I used sport-weight yarn from Knit Picks— called Wool of the Andes Sport. I find this yarn to be perfect for little projects like this bell. It’s affordable, and comes in lots of amazing colors.

Click HERE to buy some for yourself!

By the way, pretty much any sport weight yarn would work for this pattern. You could also use a heavier yarn, but your bell would obviously turn out much bigger.

Crochet Liberty Bell

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE.
• The PDF version of this pattern will become available after I get home from the East Coast!

Materials:

• Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Sport (or any sport weight yarn)
• F/3.75mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn needle

Instructions

Bottom of the Bell

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: sc in the back loop of each sc around. (18 sc)

Rnd 5-7: sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

Rnd 8-9: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (24 sc after Rnd 8. 32 sc after Rnd 9)

Rnd 10-11: sc in each st around. (32 sc) Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Turn the bell with the WRONG side facing out. It just looks more like the Liberty Bell this way!

Top of Bell

Ch 11.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each sc across. Turn. (10 sc)

Row 2: ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sc in each sc across. Turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in next 2 sc. TURN.

Row 4-5: repeat row 3. Fasten off.

Join yarn on the other end of Row 2. Then repeat rows 3-5.

You should have 6 sc left in the middle of Row 2. Join yarn in the 4th sc over. Then sc in the middle 2 sc. Fasten Off, leaving a long tail for sewing the top to the bottom. Weave in all other ends.

Here is what the top should look like!

Finishing:

1. Block the top piece. I promise, blocking is not scary. It’s very easy. To read about the 3 different methods, click here. Blocking the top of your bell will stop it from curling. It will make it firm so it’s not flopping around once you sew it on the bottom.

2. After blocking, simply sew the top onto the bottom. Attach the middle 2 sc of the top to the 1st round of the bottom.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Mini Liberty Bell – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

I’ve provided 2 contrasting earring patterns: one in pastel colors, and one in bright colors. However, the possibilities are endless, so find a color combination that works for you!

Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links. As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

The yarn I used for these is Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread. This thread is so much fun. There are tons of beautiful colors that you can combine in so many different ways!

Now: don’t get scared off because these earrings are made from thread. I know it can be daunting for some people. And I’ll be honest—thread isn’t my favorite thing in the world either. However, thread is worst when you make a big project. These earrings are super quick and easy, so you will not have a problem using the thread to whip up the little motifs.

If you’ve never worked with thread before, I definitely recommend Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread. It is affordable, you can find it on amazon, and it comes in a ton of awesome colors!

More From Desert Blossom Crafts

• How to Make Bead Crochet Jewelry from a Simple Chain
• Alicia Ear Warmer – Free Crochet Pattern
• How to Block Your Crochet Projects
• Ultimate List of Round Crochet Patterns

Ready to make these cuties for yourself? They’re the perfect summer style!

Quick and Easy Crochet Earrings

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards for later, click here
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click here
• To buy the Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern  for, click here

Notes:

1. There is a different pattern for the pastel and the bright motif. After the instructions for each there will be instructions for finishing both at the end.
2. Both patterns are worked in the round, joining at the end of each round (unless otherwise specified)
3. For a comprehensive list of standard abbreviations, click here

Materials:

• Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread (size 10)
• 2.5mm crochet hook 
• Yarn needle

Finished Measurements:

Approximately 1 1/2” in diameter

Instructions:

Pastel Motif:

Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1). (Dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1) 9 times. Join with a sl st to 4rd ch of beg ch 5. Fasten Off.

Rnd 2: Join new color with a sl st in any dc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc.) Hdc in same dc. (hdc in next ch-sp, 2 hdc in next dc) 9 times. Hdc in last ch sp, join with sl st to beginning ch 2. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: Join new color with a sc in any hdc. Sc in each hdc around. Join with a sl st in first sc. Ch 5, sl st in same sc. (earring loop made). Sl st in next hdc, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Bright Motif

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Join new color with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1 (does not count as sc). (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around, fasten off. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: Join new color with a sl st in any sc. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in same st. (Ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc) 8 times. Ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 3. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Join new color with a sc in any ch-sp. Sc in same ch-sp again, sc in next 2 dc. (2 sc in ch sp, sc in next 2 dc) around. Join with a sl st to first sc. Ch 5, sl st in same st (earhook loop made). Sl st in next sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing for both motifs:

1. Block your finished motifs. I recommend using wet blocking. This will stiffen up the earrings so they hold their shape when you wear them! Find my tutorial on this here.
2. Attach an ear-hook. Open the bottom with pliers, then slide it through the 3rd ch of the ch-5 loop, and close.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest here
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post Quick and Easy Crochet Earrings Pattern appeared first on .

Disclosure: this post may contain Affiliate links.

As you can probably tell from the image above, there will be a variety of types of projects for you to choose from—shawls, tops, scarves, and even a purse!

I’m having trouble choosing a favorite; they’re all so beautiful! Help me out and comment at the bottom of this post, saying which pattern is YOUR favorite!

• To Pin this Post to Your Pinterest Boards, click here
• To subscribe to my email list, fill out the form below

#1. Barcelona Kimono

This lovely pattern is by Jessica, the author of the blog Mama In a Stitch. She has a beautiful blog with lots of free patterns! This lace kimono is one of my favorites. The yarn used is Lion Brand’s Mandala, an inexpensive yarn that comes in gorgeous colorways! Plus, the kimono is super easy to make! It is literally made out of rectangles—no shaping at all!

Click here for the free pattern!

#2: I Promise You Pineapples Shawl

Isn’t this shawl absolutely beautiful?! It is made in sport weight yarn, and obviously incorporates the classic pineapple stitch. I don’t think I will ever grow tired of making pineaples—they’re just so pretty!

Click here for the free pattern!

#3. Helena Shawl

Oh wait, this sounds familiar… Yes, this is my free crochet pattern! It is very easy to make—please check it out! It is perfect for beginners.

Click here for the free pattern!

#4. Poncho-Style Summer Crochet Top

Isn’t this top adorable?! When I saw this pattern on the Make and Do Crew Blog, I knew I wanted to include it! Like the Barcelona kimono, this top is made from simple rectangles, and the yarn is also from Lion Brand: Cotton Bamboo Yarn. A perfect, light blend for summer garments!

Click here for the free pattern!

#5. Pineapple Grocery Bag

Wouldn’t this be the coolest grocery bag/purse to carry around? I love the way the pineapples are incorporated into the design! It is made in fingering weight yarn.

Click here for the free pattern!

#6. Silky Crochet Scarf

This pattern is a bit more difficult, as it requires some experienced techniques. However, it is still a beautiful pattern, and if you’ve been crocheting for a long time, you should be fine!

Click here for the free pattern!

#9: Ocean Kiss Summer Wrap

This shawl has such a unique, beautiful lace touch! It is made using one skein of Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball. I absolutely LOVE this yarn! It is made of cotton and acrylic, giving it a wonderful soft texture. Plus, it comes in various colorways that are absolutely beautiful!

Click here for the free pattern!.

#8: Honeycomb Kid’s Cowl

This is another one of my free patterns! Any little girl will love this bright Spring cowl. It is a quick make that should whip up in no time!

Click here for the free pattern!

#9: Clamshell Lace Vest

This vest, on Salty Pearl Crochet, is so pretty, don’t you think? A perfect light summer accessory.

Click here for the free pattern!

#10. Triangular Lace Shawl

Last, but certainly not least, is this pretty shawl by Anne Regourd. I love the lace detail in this pattern. It does not include a written pattern, only a chart—but don’t worry, charts are not hard to read! If you have any questions about them, please contact me. I will also be doing a post on this soon!

Click here for the free pattern!

I hope you enjoyed browsing all these beautiful lace patterns—I sure had fun finding them all!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

The post 10 Free Crochet Lace Patterns That Will Keep You In Style appeared first on .

If that’s you, worry no more. Trust me–I was exactly like you. I read that blocking phrase and shuddered. I even scoffed, thinking there was absolutely no reason to block. On the one hand, I didn’t have any idea how to block. On the other hand, I had no desire to learn. It wasn’t worth my time, I said.

Do You Have to Block Your Crochet?

So if you’ve heard about blocking, but you’re wondering if you really HAVE to learn it…let me just tell you something.

Although I used to wonder the same thing, I am SO glad I finally learned how to block.

Obviously, you do not HAVE to block your crochet—no one is going to force you to.

But let me tell you—once you start blocking, you won’t want go back. Not convinced? I probably wouldn’t have been either. So let me show you why you should learn this helpful technique.

WHY Block Crochet?

Blocking does a lot of GOOD things for your crochet projects.

It makes the stitches open up—be less crumpled and more drapey.

Another reason blocking crochet is so beneficial is it gives your items a professional look.

Let me show you a couple pictures to get you thinking:

Here is a swatch of a cowl I was in the process of making. As you can see, it is not very attractive, but wrinkled and squished together.

Here is the same cowl laid out while blocking.

And here it is all finished:

As you can see, the stitches have opened up and look both beautiful and professional.

How to Start Blocking Your Crochet

Hopefully the examples above give you an idea of the world of difference blocking can make.

So if blocking is so beneficial…how can you do it?

Well, step one: don’t be afraid! Seriously—if you treat blocking like a scary monster, you will never take the jump and start doing it.

Trust me, it’s not as hard as you might think. I can hardly believe I’m saying this, but I actually enjoy blocking now! It has become a step in crocheting that I look forward to greatly, and it can be that way for you too! Keep reading to learn how to block your projects yourself.

I will show you three easy methods, and walk you through each one step by step.

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Crochet Blocking Mats/Boards

Now, one thing you might be wondering is “do I need a blocking mat?”

While each method of blocking uses different materials, all of the methods will benefit from having a blocking mat.

Notice I used the word “benefit.” It is not absolutely necessary that you invest in mats right away. If you want a cost effective option, just use a towel to block your projects.

However, having a blocking board or mat (it is the same thing) will make the process much easier!

Here are some your buying options for blocking mats on Amazon:

Hephaestus Crafts Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 GRAY Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet. 150 T-pins

$41.99

Buy Now

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

04/05/2026 11:34 am GMT

Cheers to Ewe! Foam Knitting Block Mat, Grid Blocking for Knitting Accuracy and Crochet, ½ Inch Thick with 1 Inch Grid, Pack of 9

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Crutello Extra Thick Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 White Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet - Includes Measuring Tape & 150 T Pins

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Wet, Spray, and Steam Blocking

Before we do a deep dive into blocking, let me give you a little summary of the three methods you can use. The first one is called wet blocking. Personally, this is my favorite method. It is perfect for all types of natural fibers, and will ensure that your project can stretch fully and also maintain it’s form after use.

The next method is spray blocking. Spray blocking is perfect for smaller projects, ones that need to be block, but not stretch drastically. Again, this method works for natural fibers.

The last method is steam blocking. This one was the scariest for me to try— but it’s actually not as bad as I thought! Steam blocking is for acrylic yarn, and it will TRANSFORM your crochet experience. I’m serious. The cowl I showed you pictures of was steam blocked; it actually amazed me how well it worked!

So wait no longer! Let’s dive into these methods together!

Method 1: Wet Blocking

Use this method if:

• Your project is made out of any natural fiber
• You have a project that needs to be stretched or shaped a lot

Do NOT use this method if your project is made out of acrylic yarn. Unlike natural fibers, moisture does not affect acrylic.

Materials:

• A sink
• 2 towels (or 1 towel and a blocking board, if desired)
• Pins (rust-proof is best)

Knitter's Pride Knitter's Knit Blocking & Pins Kit

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Blulu Steel T-pins for Blocking Knitting, Modelling and Crafts 150 Pieces (2 Inch, 1-1/2 Inch)

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04/05/2026 11:18 am GMT

Step 1:

Fill a sink with cold or lukewarm water. Since you’re using natural fibers with wet blocking, you don’t want the water to be hot. (Unless, of course, you’re aiming to felt it–which would be the opposite of blocking!)

Step 2

Put your project in water, fully immersing it.

Step 3

Let your project soak. You want to let it sit until it becomes completely saturated. I normally let mine sit for 15-20 minutes. If your project is large, you may want to rotate it halfway through to make sure the whole thing is wet enough.

Step 4:

Drain the sink. Take your project and carefully squeeze the water out. DO NOT twist it when you squeeze, as this can cause it to lose shape. Instead, take large sections and squeeze gently, pressing the water out. Note that you will not get all the water out this way. That’s what the next step is for…

Step 5:

Take a towel and roll your project in it. Press down gently all over the towel in order to soak up any excess water.

Step 6:

Take another towel and lay it out flat. Spread your crochet project on it. You can use a blocking board instead of a towel if you’d like, but in my experience a towel works perfectly fine.

Step 7:

Pin your project to the towel. Adjust the stitches to lay exactly how you want it to look when finished. Don’t be afraid to stretch the fabric out a lot—that’s exactly the point of wet blocking!

Step 8:

Let your project dry completely. I usually let mine sit overnight to ensure it is fully dry. Finally, take out the pins, and you’re all done!

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Adalyn Pullover 2/ Moonbeam Baskets 3/ Pansy Stitch Pattern

METHOD 2: SPRAY BLOCKING

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made out of natural fibers
• Your project does not need to be stretched drastically
• You need to get your blocking done in a small amount of time

Don’t use this method if your project needs to be shaped and stretched a lot. For that type of project, use wet blocking instead.

MATERIALS:

• Pins
• Towel (or blocking board, if desired)
• Spray bottle

STEP 1:

Lay your project out on a towel (or a blocking board) and pin it down.

STEP 2:

Fill a spray bottle with water, and spray your project until it is damp. (If your project needs to be fully soaked to block and stretch well, you should use wet blocking instead of spray blocking).

STEP 3:

Allow your project to dry, and remove pins. That’s all there is to it!

METHOD 3: STEAM BLOCKING

NOTE: Get even more details about blocking acrylic yarn here.

The regular instructions will be below, but I’ve also added a video tutorial on blocking acrylic below! This is a quick explanation that will hopefully help you even more.

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made of acrylic yarn
• Your project needs to be stretched a lot

   Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel or blocking board
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking board. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like the lace cowl I showed at the beginning), you will want to pin down. However, with some projects (especially something that’s not lace) pinning isn’t necessary.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting, or your project will MELT. This is because acrylic yarn is essentially made out of plastic. Crafters call this “killing” your project. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is slightly damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And there are your three blocking methods! Not too complicated, right? As you practice each method, it will get easier and easier. You might even find that you enjoy it!

Before we finish up, let’s cover a few more common questions I see people asking about blocking.

Is Crochet Blocking Permanent?

This is actually a tricky question to answer, because there’s a lot of variables that can go into it!

Here is what I have found in my experience:

For wet blocking, the results will wear off with time (especially if it is a crocheted garment!). You will likely need to re-block them when you wash them.

I like to think of this like regular sweaters you might buy at the store that are hand wash only. When you lay these out to dry, it is very similar to wet blocking! In the same way, when you “wash” a crochet project, it will basically be the process of wet blocking over again.

For spray blocking, it also depends on how much wear the item is getting. Since this technique is usually used for smaller projects, you may find that the blocking lasts a long time. However, if for example the edges start to curl, this is an indicator it could use another block.

For Steam blocking acrylic yarn, I have personally found that the results are more permanent than other methods.

Why? The hot steam locks the acrylic fibers in place. In my experience, when these fibers are set, they are set permanently. For example, I have a shawl made from Lion Brand Mandala yarn that I steam blocked. I’ve used it a ton and it has never lost it’s original blocked shape.

Note that this may not be true across ALL acrylic yarns. Your results may wear off with time depending on the yarn.

Another important thing to remember here is that the results of steam blocking will also be permanent if you do it WRONG. So if you kill your project, there will be no fixing it. Remember to never touch the iron to your crocheting!

Should I Weave in My Ends Before or After Blocking?

Generally, I have found that the result is better when I weave in my ends after blocking.

Here’s the rationale behind that: if you weave in ends beforehand, they have the potential to get misshapen during the blocking process. They may unweave when the project is stretched, for example.

This is why I wait until after blocking to weave in my ends. The project is now at my desired measurements and the ends will have a chance to settle into that.

How to Block a Sweater

Now, one thing in particular that people are afraid to block is SWEATERS!

Yes, it can seem scary, but here’s what I want you to remember (once again): blocking is just like hand washing a regular sweater from the store!

The only difference is that if you’re following a pattern, you will want to block the sweater to the finished measurements that are listed.

I found this YouTube video super helpful in explaining how to do this! Note that the example she uses is a knitted sweater…but the concept is exactly the same for a crocheted sweater.

Here’s just an overview of what to remember when blocking a sweater:

1. Always block a sweater to the finished measurements listed
2. If you have long sleeves, make sure you block them to the same length
3. If you use pins, make sure they don’t pinch the fabric in unnatural ways

In Summary…

Blocking your crochet projects is a wonderful process once you get used to it! With time and effort you too can become a pro.

Related: learn what frogging is in crochet and how to do it!

If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to contact me as I would love to help!

To view last week’s post, a tutorial on foundation single crochet, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

More Beginner Crochet

• How to read crochet charts
• Crochet Stitch that looks like Knitting
• Library of Crochet Stitches

The post How to Block Your Crocheting: 3 Methods appeared first on .

I don’t want that to happen to you!

Maybe you feel like foundation single crochet is too hard, that you’ll never get the hang of it. This is a common feeling, and I understand! I was right there with you. However, when I did finally find this stitch, it became my go-to. I hardly ever start a pattern with chains now. Let me show you how fsc can be a help, rather than a hassle. First, I will tell you what exactly foundation single crochet is, and why I like it. Then, I will provide you with a detailed tutorial, perfect for beginners, that should get you using this new stitch right away!

Foundation Single Crochet—What it is

Below you can see a picture of a small row of foundation single crochet. So what is this stitch? Basically, it is a chain row and a single crochet row combined. Instead of forming a chain row first, and then adding sc on top of it, you do them both at the same time. Intriguing? Keep reading to find out why I like this stitch so much.

Why You Should Use Foundation Single Crochet

You will always hear crocheters debate the use of foundation single crochet. Some say it is worthless—stick with tradition, and do a normal chain stitch. However, others say fsc is actually a useful new crochet technique that we should most definitely take advantage of. So who’s right?

I’ll be honest—I tend to side with those who are for foundation single crochet. In fact, I love fsc as a starting row. Here’s why:

1. It gets your chain row and single crochet row done all at once

Does anyone else out there hate that first row after the chain as much as I do? I don’t know about you, but it’s always a huge relief to me when I’m on to the regular stitch pattern. A chain is just SO annoying to stick a hook into! However, like I said earlier, foundation single crochet eliminates that pain. Your normal chain stitch and single crochet stitch is combined into one row. With each stitch, you create a chain and a sc at the same time. Let me tell you—it’s wonderful!

2. It is extra stretchy

Another annoying thing about chains is that they tend to be tight. Even if you try really hard to work them loosely, they end up tighter than the rest of the pattern. In garments, this is especially annoying. If the neck is started with a chain row, it can be hard to fit over your head. Even in a scarf, you will see this. The first row will be very tight, and then the rest of the scarf will be slightly larger than the rest. So annoying. However, (I bet you can guess what I’m going to say…) foundation single crochet is super stretchy! It solves a problem that a chain stitch cannot solve.

3. Lots of “Big” Designers use it

Don’t just take my advice—I’m not the only one who loves fsc! I’ve done a lot of patterns from designers like Doris Chan and Robyn Chachula, who have their work published in Interweave Crochet Magazine, their own books, etc. And let me tell you—they almost always use foundation single crochet as a starting point.

Are you convinced yet? Trust me, once you get the hang of this foundation stitch, you won’t want to go back! It may take some getting used to, but I know you can do it. So grab a hook and lets get started!

More Stitch Tutorials:

• Suzette Stitch
• Trinity Stitch
• Alpine Stitch
• Crunch Stitch

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Let’s get into the details of how to crochet the foundation single crochet stitch! View the video tutorial below, or keep reading for step by step instructions.

Step 1:

Ch 2.

Step 2:

Pull up a loop in second ch from hook.

Step 3:

Yo, pull through one loop. (This step forms the “ch” of the fsc row),

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Step 4:

Yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

You have now finished your very first fsc!

Now, you will see the hook pointing to a space below. That is the “ch” of the fsc stitch. It is the loop you will insert your hook into for the next step.

Step 5:

Yo, pull up a loop in the “ch” space of the first fsc stitch.

Step 6:

Now it is basically the same as the first fsc stitch! YO, pull through one loop.

Step 7:

YO, pull through last 2 loops.

And there are your first two foundation single crochet stitches! Pretty neat, huh? Now all you have to do is repeat steps 5-7 for as many fsc as you want!

Here is my row of fsc. As you can see, I have done my chain and single crochet row all at once.

In this picture, you can see the tops of the sc—it looks exactly like a normal row!

That’s all there is to it! As you keep practicing this stitch, it will get easier and easier. Don’t give up, even if it’s a struggle at first. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Related Tutorial: Learn how to block your crochet projects!

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

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