Unfortunately, the sweater section of this pattern is no longer available. However, you can still make a color work mandala! There are two blog posts which will show you how to do this:

Mandala Colorwork Part 1

Mandala Colorwork Part 2

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get more free patterns & tutorials straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Mandala Pullover Sleeves and Assembly appeared first on .

Just a reminder, I have a beginner’s guide to color work that will explain everything you need to know about your mandala. Be sure to check it out if you’re struggling!

If this is the first time you’re seeing this pattern, be sure to first read the other posts I’ve published about the CAL. You won’t be able to make the pattern starting from here, since it is split into 5 different posts covering the yarn and sizing, plus separate stages of the pattern.

• INTRO POST
• PATTERN PART 1
• PATTERN PART 2
• PATTERN PART 3 is where you’re at right now!

Here we will just cover some quick references (see below) but the other posts cover lots more details.

QUICK LINKS

• To join the CAL community in my Facebook Group, click HERE.
• To view the #mandalapullover hashtag (those who’ve entered the giveaway) click HERE

MANDALA PULLOVER Color Work: PATTERN PART 3

Unfortunately, the sweater section of this pattern is no longer available. However, you can still make a color work mandala! View the second half of the color work written instructions below.

To View Rows 1-26 of the color work, CLICK HERE.

← Row 27 [RS]: (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2 

→ Row 28 [WS]: MC, CC, (MC) x 12, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 3, MC, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 12, CC, MC 

← Row 29 [RS]: (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 30 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 5, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 6, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 31 [RS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 32 [WS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3 

← Row 33 [RS]: (MC) x 3, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, (CC) x 9, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 8, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 9, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 34 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 35 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 36 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 37 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 4, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 38 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 39 [RS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 40 [WS]: (MC) x 5, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 10, CC, CC2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, CC2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 5 

← Row 41 [RS]: (MC) x 9, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 9 

→ Row 42 [WS]: (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10 

← Row 43 [RS]: (MC) x 11, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 11 

→ Row 44 [WS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 5, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 13 

← Row 45 [RS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 14, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 46 [WS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 6, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

← Row 47 [RS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, CC, (MC) x 8, CC, CC3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 48 [WS]: (MC) x 14, CC, (CC3) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 6, CC, (MC) x 14 

← Row 49 [RS]: (MC) x 14, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 14 

→ Row 50 [WS]: (MC) x 15, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 15 

← Row 51 [RS]: (MC) x 24, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 24 

→ Row 52 [WS]: (MC) x 25, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 25 

I hope you’ve enjoyed making the mandala!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Mandala Pullover Color Work Section – Pattern Part 3 appeared first on .

I can hardly believe we’re already at week 3 of the CAL. I have to be honest with you guys…the color work of this sweater is SO MUCH FUN! One of my favorite things to see is a color work design begin to emerge.

Now, if you’re new to crochet color work, don’t be afraid! I’ve got you covered. I just published a beginner’s guide to color work that explains everything.

QUICK LINKS

• To join the CAL community in my Facebook Group, click HERE.
• To read more details about the CAL, click HERE
• To pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To view the #mandalapullover hashtag (those who’ve entered the giveaway) click HERE

Mandala Pullover

Unfortunately, the sweater section of this pattern is no longer available. However, you can still make a color work mandala! View the color work written instructions below.

Color Work

FOR A FULL TUTORIAL ON CROCHET COLOR WORK, CLICK HERE.

WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS:

Color Key:

• MC = Off White
• CC = Light blue 
• CC2 = Purple
• CC3 = Teal

Or, if you are using different colors than me, try writing down your own colors, plugging them in to the 4 different abbreviations.

Note: this is worked in plain single crochet. You need to have at least 54 stitches across for the image to work. You’ll just have 2

← Row 1 [RS]: (MC) x 25, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 25 

→ Row 2 [WS]: (MC) x 24, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 24 

← Row 3 [RS]: (MC) x 15, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 15 

→ Row 4 [WS]: (MC) x 14, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 14 

← Row 5 [RS]: (MC) x 14, CC, (CC3) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 6, CC, (MC) x 14 

→ Row 6 [WS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, CC, (MC) x 8, CC, CC3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13 

← Row 7 [RS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 6, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 8 [WS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 14, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

← Row 9 [RS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 5, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 10 [WS]: (MC) x 11, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 11 

← Row 11 [RS]: (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10 

→ Row 12 [WS]: (MC) x 9, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 9 

← Row 13 [RS]: (MC) x 5, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 10, CC, CC2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, CC2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 5 

→ Row 14 [WS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 3 

← Row 15 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 16 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 4, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 17 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 18 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 19 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 20 [WS]: (MC) x 3, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, (CC) x 9, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 8, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 9, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 3 

← Row 21 [RS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 22 [WS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3 

← Row 23 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 5, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 6, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 24 [WS]: (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2 

← Row 25 [RS]: MC, CC, (MC) x 12, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 3, MC, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 12, CC, MC 

→ Row 26 [WS]: (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2 

That’s all we will do this week…but be sure to come back to my blog next week so you can finish the other half of the mandala! You definitely wouldn’t want to leave it as is

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Mandala Pullover Pattern Part 2 appeared first on .

With the Mandala Pullover CAL in full swing, and the second part of the pattern going live tomorrow, I knew it was time to publish this tutorial! You can’t make the sweater without knowing color work.

Before you freak out on me and change your mind about making the sweater…just breathe. Take a deep breath. Crochet color work may be different than you’re used to, but I promise it’s not all that difficult to learn. You’ll be rocking it in no time!

So, before we get into the nitty gritty, I want to start by answering some questions.

What are the types of crochet color work?

There are 3 main types of crochet color work: tapestry crochet, intarsia crochet, and fair isle crochet. They all are slightly different methods of doing color work, but the main goal is the same: to change colors as seamlessly as possible.

What will you show me in this tutorial?

In this tutorial, I will be showing you the very basics of crochet color work that you’ll need to know, regardless of which method you choose to use (tapestry, intarsia, etc.) I will also show you some of the differences between the methods of color work, and finally, give you some helpful tips along the way.

What method does the Mandala Pullover Use?

Let me be honest. Sometimes you can’t just follow ONE of the color work methods. When I do crochet color work, I usually combine the methods and use them interchangeably! The bottom line is, some of the methods work better for different parts of the Mandala Pullover. Once you get started on your project, (whether it’s this pullover or not) you’ll be able to get a feel for which method to use!

Please Share this tutorial by pinning it to your Pinterest Boards!

OKAY. Now that we’ve covered that, let’s get into the details of crochet color work! We will start by learning how to change colors. You will need to know how to do this regardless of which “method” of color work you’re using.

Changing Colors

Step 1:

First, we need to know the most basic step in color changing: yarning over with a new color! In the photo below, you’ll see that I am working with the color purple. When I am ready to change colors, I will start the process 1 stitch before the new color begins. I will begin this stitch as usual: insert hook in next st, pull up a loop. 

Step 2:

Next, YO with the NEW color (in my case, light blue). Pull through the 2 purple loops with the new color. 

 Now, simply continue with the new color! Note that on the RS, you will leave the unworked strand to the back of work, whereas on the WS, you’ll need to bring it to the front (shown in second photo below).

Carrying/Floating Colors

Once you actually change colors, there are several different methods of carrying the unworked colors across your work. You may need to use different methods at different times in an image (it can be different, for example, if you’re using only 2 colors versus 4).

As a general rule, however, here is what I do with spare yarn. On any RS row, I crochet over the unworked strands, “carrying” them through my stitches until I need them again. This usually hides them well so that they’re not visible on the RS. On the WS, however, carrying colors throughout will be very visible on the RS, which we definitely don’t want. So instead, I use the “floating” technique. With this method, you will simply drop the unworked color until you need it again; then, pick it up. Simply use it to YO to change colors, while letting the unused part “float” across the back of the work.

Carrying Unused Colors          

Floating Unused Colors

There is also a technique called Fair Isle. With this method, you do the “floats” but you do them over only a few stitches, and you do them on both the right and wrong side. This can reduce bulk in the color work; see photo below.

Fair Isle Crochet 

For the Mandala Pullover pattern, I did a mixture of the tapestry method and fair isle method. When you get to the rows with all 4 colors, you will probably want to do small floats as in fair isle, because carrying all the colors throughout will get way too bulky. However, on rows with 2 or 3 colors, carrying them across works fine. You will get a feel for it when you start your color work, don’t worry!

Other Helpful Tips

There may also be times when you need to separate the same color into 2 balls of yarn. This is because you may not want to carry the color all the way across a long row for just a few stitches. This is illustrated by the photo above—because the 2 teal sections are so far apart, I used two separate balls that I just had to pick up when I got to those colors. This also reduced bulk because I didn’t have to carry teal all the way across the row.

I hope this tutorial has taught you everything you need to know to get started with crochet color work! Be sure to view Part 2 of the Mandala Pullover so you can now put your knowledge into practice.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Learn Crochet Color Work: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on .