Some of you may remember that I released a pattern last winter called the Alicia Ear warmer…well, I am happy to say that this is now the CHILD’s version of that same pattern! You can now make matching ear warmers for you and your kids—and I promise, these will be amazing to keep you in style and warm at the same time. My little sissy loves her ear warmer…

And here we are wearing them together! This was such a fun photo shoot to do together.

If you want to go straight to the adult pattern, be sure to click HERE. The main difference is that it is wider. Besides that, it does use the same stitch pattern!

All right, let’s get started on the pattern!

The Allie Ear warmer

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the PDF version of this pattern on Etsy, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

NOTES:

1. Ch 3 at beginning of rows always counts as a stitch
2. Stitch Pattern is a multiple of 5+3. You can adjust the width of your ear warmer by increasing or decreasing stitches.

MATERIALS:

• Less than 1 skein of Mary Maxim Woodlands yarn (or other worsted weight yarn)
• H/8 (5mm) crochet hook
• Yarn needle

Here are some other purple yarns that could work for this project!

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Wintergreen Cowl 2/ Lattice Stitch 3/ Angelica Cardigan

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Foundation single crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half double crochet – hdc

Double crochet – dc

Back post double crochet – bpdc

Front post triple crochet – fptr

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

INSTRUCTIONS:

Fsc 13 (or a multiple of 5+3 to adjust width).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. *Sk next dc, fptr around next dc. Working in front of st just made, fptr over skipped st. (See appendix for tutorial). Dc in next 3 dc. Rep from * across row. Turn.

NOTE: if you are unfamiliar with post stitches, you can view the tutorial that will help you learn this stitch pattern. Just click HERE!

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Bpdc over next 2 fptr. *Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. Sk next dc, bpdc over next 2 fptr. Rep from * until 3 dc left. Dc in last 3 dc. Turn. 

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. *Sk next fpdc, fptr in next fpdc. Working in front of st just made, fptr in skipped st. Dc in next 3 dc. Rep from * across row. Turn. 

Rep rows 3-4 until ear warmer reaches desired length. Try it around your head and make sure you get a snug fit! 

Last row: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc across row. Fasten off. 

FINISHING

1. With right sides together, sew ends together using your desired sewing method. I used a slip stitch seam. 

2. To make the gathered part:

Take a long piece of yarn and begin by inserting it through the 3 cables as shown below. 

Note: my yarn is shown in a contrasting color so you can see it better. However, the color I actually used was the same!

Next, take one end of the yarn and stick it back through the opposite side of the cables. Then pull both ends tight. 

Finally, stick the 2 ends through the opposite side of the ear warmer, so that they’re coming out the back. Pull tight once again and knot. 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Allie Ear warmer—Free Crochet Kid’s Pattern appeared first on .

After designing the women’s Midnight Top and seeing the huge success that it was, I just KNEW a kid’s version was in order! It has been so much fun to see these mini tops take shape!

My favorite thing about this top is how quickly it works up. The adult version was super quick to make—but the kids is even quicker! You can whip one of these up in no time.

Sign up for my email list to get FREE crochet pattern like this straight to your inbox!!

The YARN

I used Lion Brand Jeans yarn for this top. I have to say, this probably my favorite worsted weight yarn I’ve ever worked with! Not only is it soft, but also stretchy and comfy! In short, perfect for summer. Even though it’s acrylic, it doesn’t get too hot either.

The Inspiration + Design

I actually designed the Midnight Top top in the car. I’d never designed a raglan before, so I had low expectations for it actually becoming a a successful pattern. So really, I stumbled upon this design by accident! However, after I made the adult version, I KNEW I couldn’t go by without making a kid’s version as well.

My testers were happy with that—look at this mommy and me set made by @coycrochet on Instagram below!

If you’d like to get an Ad-free, printable version of this pattern, be sure to visit my Etsy shop. By buying the premium version, you go even farther in supporting my small business—so thank you in advance to all who purchase!

Also…the PDF is on sale for limited time only! Use the code MINIMIDNIGHT to get 20% off!

One last thing…this pattern is also apart of the Design, Create, Repeat collaboration! Today I’m featuring Katie from Salty Pearl Crochet’s corner-to-corner pattern! Click HERE for the free pattern!

The Mini Midnight Top

Ok, finally to the pattern!

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To buy the ad-free, PDF pattern, click HERE
• To pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE
• To view the adult version of this top, click HERE

Materials:

• Lion Brand Jeans Yarn: 1 (2, 2) skeins; I used colors Faded and Topstitch
• Total yardage needed: Approx. 240, 300, 380 yards worsted weight yarn
• K (6.5mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Special Stitches:

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated stitch.

Sizing:

To fit chest size: 22 (25, 28)”
Finished bust size: 24 (27, 30)”

The sizes above are what the finished size of your sweater will be (as long as you obtain gauge). To leave plenty of growing room for your child, I recommend choosing a size that is 2-3” bigger than their chest measurement.

For reference, model is 4’ 2” with a chest measurement of 24”, wearing size 6-8.

Gauge:

11 dc = 4”

5 rows of dc = 3”

Notes:

1. This top’s construction is a raglan; it is worked from the top down.
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rnds counts as a stitch.
3. Ch 2 at beginning of rnds does NOT count as stitch.
4. Pattern is written in size 2-4, with sizes 6-8 and 10-12 in parentheses.

Instructions:

YOKE

Fsc (44, 56, 56). Join with a sl st to beg fsc to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in same st as sl st. Dc in next 10 (13, 13) Fsc. *Sh in next Fsc. Dc in next 10 (13,13) Fsc. Rep from * 2 times more. Complete first shell by doing 2 dc in first Fsc. Sc in beg ch 3 (counts as the ch space.) 40 (52, 52) dc, and 4 corner shells.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. Dc in next 14 (17, 17) dc. *Sh in next check sp. Dc in next 14 (17, 17) dc. Rep from * 2 times more. Complete first sh by doing 2 dc in first ch sp. Sc in beg ch 3. 56 (68, 68) dc and 4 shells.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. **Dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, Sk 2 dc, *Sc in next dc. Ch 4, Sk 2 dc, rep from * until you reach corner shell. Dc in next 2 dc of corner sh. Sh in next ch sp. Rep from ** around. Except, on last repeat, omit the last sh, and simply finish the first shell by doing 2 dc in first ch sp. Join with sc to beg ch 3. 20 (24, 24) ch sps, 16 (20, 20) sc, 16 dc, 4 sh.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. *Dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, Sk 2 dc, Sc in next ch sp. (Ch 4, Sc in next ch sp) across all ch spaces. Ch 4, Sk 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc. Sh in next ch sp. Rep from * around, except on last repeat, omit final sh. 2 dc in first ch sp. join with sc to beg ch 3. 24 (28, 28) ch sps, 20 (24, 24) sc, 16 dc, 4 sh.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. *Sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc. 2 dc in next ch sp. (3 dc in next ch sp) until 1 ch sp left. 2 dc in last ch sp. Dc in next 3 dc, Sk next dc. Sh in next ch sp. Rep from * around, except on last repeat, omit final sh. 2 dc in first ch sp. Join with sc to beg ch 3. 88 (100, 100) dc and 4 corner shells.

For Sizes 2-4 and 6-8, move on to the Body section now.

Size 10-12 ONLY

Rnd 6: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. Dc in ea dc across to ch sp of next corner sh. *Sh in next ch sp. Dc across to ch sp of next corner sh. Rep from * around. 2 dc in first ch sp. Join with sc to beg ch 3. 116 dc and 4 corner shells.

BODY:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in ch sp of current sh. Ch 3 (4, 5) skip all the dc before next sh. 2 dc in ch sp of next sh (armhole made). Dc in all dc up to next sh. 2 dc in ch sp of next sh. Ch 3 (4, 5), skip all the dc before next sh. 2 dc in ch sp of next sh (armhole made). Dc in remaining dc. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3. 60 (66, 74) dc and 6, 8, 10 chs.  

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc), dc in same st as sl st. Dc in next dc. Dc in next 3 (4, 5) chains. Dc in across all dc until next set of chains. Dc in next 3 (4, 5) chains. Dc in remaining dcs around. Join with sl st to beg dc. 66 (74, 84) dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st as sl st. Dc in ea dc around. Join with a sl st to beg dc.

Rep rnd 3 till work measures 15 (16, 17)  inches, or until top is your desired length!

Note: If you want to do color changes like I did, keep repeating Rnd 3 until you are a few rows from your desired length. Fasten off and do a rnd of dc in the contrasting color; then do a rnd of sc in the main color. Finally, do one more rnd in the contrasting color. After this, move on to the last rnd as shown below.

Last Rnd: Ch 1, sc in next st. *Ch 3, Sk next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until one st left. Ch 3, Sk last st, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

FINISHING

Sleeves: With contrasting color (if desired), join yarn with a sc at the base of the armpit. Sc evenly around the armhole opening. Join with a sl st to first sc, and fasten off.

Neck: With contrasting color (if desired), join yarn with a sc at the back of the neck opening. Sc evenly around the neck opening. Join with sl st to first sc, and fasten off.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Mini Midnight Top—FREE Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Meet Heidi, my adorable little sister. She absolutely loves her new sweater, and wears it all the time!

The Heidi Sweater is worked in 2 rectangles, with decreases on the front to form a v-neck, and then 2 sleeves which are sewn on afterward. The construction is very simple!

Not to mention, this sweater is very, very soft. It’s something you want to snuggle up in a lot (kind of like little sleepies pajamas, which I hear are pretty cozy!)

As always, grab the PDF crochet pattern HERE. This version is ad-free, and includes extra photos for visual learners.

Just one more thing before we get to the pattern: check out the AMAZING versions of this sweater by my testers! Feel free to pin this image here as well. As you can see, this sweater looks amazing on all the sizes, from 2, all the way up to 12!

The Heidi Sweater

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To buy the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Everyday: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins. I used the colorway Blue Heather. To substitute, use a similar worsted weight yarn.

• Total yardage needed: 400 (500, 600, 700, 800, 900) yards (approximate)
• H (5mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• G hook (4mm)  (or one size smaller than the hook you obtained gauge with)
• Yarn needle

See my favorite sweater yarns here!

Notes:

1. Sweater is worked in 4 panels: a front panel, back panel, and 2 sleeves, which are all sewn together at the end.  
2. Chain 2 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a stitch
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as stitch
4. Pattern is written in size 2, with sizes 4-12 in parentheses. At one point in the pattern, the sizes will be broken up into sections. Follow the section that corresponds to your size.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Single crochet 2 together – sc2tog

Half double crochet – hdc

Back Loop – BL

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Special Stitches:

Bobble: Insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up loop. YO, insert hook in same stitch, YO, pull up loop. YO, Pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): YO, insert hook into indicated st, YO, pull up loop. Insert hook in next st. YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Sizing:

Finished Chest size: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) inches

Length of panels: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 30) inches (adjustable if desired)

Armhole & Sleeve Length: adjustable

I recommend choosing a size 2-3” inches bigger than your child’s actual bust size. If you are in between sizes, please size up.

For reference, model is 4’ 2″ with a bust of 24”, wearing a size 8.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Wintergreen Cowl 2/ Lattice Stitch 3/ Angelica Cardigan

Gauge:

7 bobbles (13 sts) and 12 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

To make a gauge swatch:

Fsc a multiple of 2+1. Work rows 2-3 of the back panel for stitch pattern.

Instructions:

BACK PANEL

Ribbing

With G hook (or one size smaller than it took you to obtain gauge) ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (7 sc)

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as st, here and throughout) sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn. (7 sc)

Rep row 2 for a total of 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) rows.

Change to H hook (or size you obtained gauge with) Begin working along the side of ribbing.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ea row along the side of ribbing band. Turn. 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) sc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st) hdc in FIRST sc. (Sk next sc, 2 hdc in next sc) across row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn. REMEMBER here that the ch 2 from Row 2 does NOT count as a stitch, so you do not work a stitch into it.

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Rep rows 3-4 until panel reaches 17.5 (18, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) inches long.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: you can make your sweater as long or as short as you would like! Simply add or subtract rows here to make your sweater longer or shorter as desired. Just make sure to end on a Row 4.

FRONT PANEL

Repeat as for the Back Panel, except keep repeating rows 3-4 until work reaches 14.5 (15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17) inches.

OR: if you have adjusted the length of your sweater, keep repeating rows 3-4 until your work measure 3” SHORTER than your back panel! This leaves room for the v-neck.

BEGIN V-NECK

Sizes 4, 6, 8: (parentheses will now be in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, Bobble in next st. (Sc in next st, bobble in next st) 6 (7, 8) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 15 (17, 19) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, bobble in next st. *Sc in next st, bobble in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in last st. TURN.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. Sk 1 hdc. With WS facing, Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

V-neck for Sizes 2, 10, 12: (parentheses now shown in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) 6 (9, 10) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 14 (20, 22) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. *Bobble in next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st. TURN.  

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (11, 11) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. With WS facing, sk 1 hdc. Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

SLEEVES

With G hook, Ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. Turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn.

Rep row 2 for a total of 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: You can adjust the width of the band of your sleeves if desired! You will just need to add or subtract rows to the band of ribbing. However, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows total.

Change back to your H hook. Working along the side of ribbing, sc 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) across. (1 sc per row) Turn.

If you have adjusted the number of rows in your band, simply do 1 sc in each row. Remember, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows in your ribbing, and thus also a multiple of 2+1 sc after this row.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), 2 hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st across till one sc left. 2 hdc in last sc. Turn. (2 increases made)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in first st. (Sk next st, 2 hdc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 5: Rep row 3

Row 6: Rep row 4

Row 7: Rep row 3

Rep rows 2-7 for a total of 31, (31, 37, 37, 43, 43) rows OR until sleeve reaches desired length!

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: If you adjust the length of the sleeves, make sure to check the width to make sure it fits around the arm!

Repeat sleeve instructions for second sleeve!

ASSEMBLY

Note: I used single crochet seams for all assembly for extra strength. However, feel free to use any seaming method you prefer.

Lay your panels together as the first picture below shows, with right sides together and wrong sides facing out. Sew the tops of the v-neck to the adjacent part of the back panel, using your preferable seaming method.

Step 2:

With right sides together, fold sleeve in half. Sew up the side of the sleeve, then turn it right side out as shown below.

Step 3: Attaching the sleeves

This method for attaching your sleeves might be slightly counterintuitive at first, but trust me… it works! (And its genius!)

Begin by laying out your panels with the WRONG sides facing out. Then lay one sleeve in the middle, with the sleeve seam facing the bottom of the sweater. (first picture)

Then take the back panel and bring it over the front panel & the sleeve to make a sort of “sleeve sandwich”.

Next, sew around the entire opening of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panel. I like to start at the top, sew down one side and fasten off, and then start at the top again, sew down the other side of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panels.

When you’ve finished seaming, turn your sweater right side out!

FINISHING

Join yarn with a sc at the back of neck opening. Sc around the entire neck opening. Join with a sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Kid’s Crochet Sweater—Free Pattern appeared first on .