Kid’s Crochet Sweater—Free Pattern

I’m so excited to share a free kid’s crochet pattern with you all today…the Heidi Sweater!

Meet Heidi, my adorable little sister. She absolutely loves her new sweater, and wears it all the time!

The Heidi Sweater is worked in 2 rectangles, with decreases on the front to form a v-neck, and then 2 sleeves which are sewn on afterward. The construction is very simple!

Not to mention, this sweater is very, very soft. It’s something you want to snuggle up in a lot (kind of like little sleepies pajamas, which I hear are pretty cozy!)

As always, grab the PDF crochet pattern HERE. This version is ad-free, and includes extra photos for visual learners.

Just one more thing before we get to the pattern: check out the AMAZING versions of this sweater by my testers! Feel free to pin this image here as well. As you can see, this sweater looks amazing on all the sizes, from 2, all the way up to 12!

The Heidi Sweater

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To buy the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Everyday: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins. I used the colorway Blue Heather. To substitute, use a similar worsted weight yarn.

• Total yardage needed: 400 (500, 600, 700, 800, 900) yards (approximate)
• H (5mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• G hook (4mm)  (or one size smaller than the hook you obtained gauge with)
• Yarn needle

See my favorite sweater yarns here!

Notes:

1. Sweater is worked in 4 panels: a front panel, back panel, and 2 sleeves, which are all sewn together at the end.  
2. Chain 2 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a stitch
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as stitch
4. Pattern is written in size 2, with sizes 4-12 in parentheses. At one point in the pattern, the sizes will be broken up into sections. Follow the section that corresponds to your size.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Single crochet 2 together – sc2tog

Half double crochet – hdc

Back Loop – BL

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Special Stitches:

Bobble: Insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up loop. YO, insert hook in same stitch, YO, pull up loop. YO, Pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): YO, insert hook into indicated st, YO, pull up loop. Insert hook in next st. YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Sizing:

Finished Chest size: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) inches

Length of panels: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 30) inches (adjustable if desired)

Armhole & Sleeve Length: adjustable

I recommend choosing a size 2-3” inches bigger than your child’s actual bust size. If you are in between sizes, please size up.

For reference, model is 4’ 2″ with a bust of 24”, wearing a size 8.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Wintergreen Cowl 2/ Lattice Stitch 3/ Angelica Cardigan

Gauge:

7 bobbles (13 sts) and 12 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

To make a gauge swatch:

Fsc a multiple of 2+1. Work rows 2-3 of the back panel for stitch pattern.

Instructions:

BACK PANEL

Ribbing

With G hook (or one size smaller than it took you to obtain gauge) ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (7 sc)

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as st, here and throughout) sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn. (7 sc)

Rep row 2 for a total of 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) rows.

Change to H hook (or size you obtained gauge with) Begin working along the side of ribbing.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ea row along the side of ribbing band. Turn. 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) sc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st) hdc in FIRST sc. (Sk next sc, 2 hdc in next sc) across row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn. REMEMBER here that the ch 2 from Row 2 does NOT count as a stitch, so you do not work a stitch into it.

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Rep rows 3-4 until panel reaches 17.5 (18, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) inches long.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: you can make your sweater as long or as short as you would like! Simply add or subtract rows here to make your sweater longer or shorter as desired. Just make sure to end on a Row 4.

FRONT PANEL

Repeat as for the Back Panel, except keep repeating rows 3-4 until work reaches 14.5 (15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17) inches.

OR: if you have adjusted the length of your sweater, keep repeating rows 3-4 until your work measure 3” SHORTER than your back panel! This leaves room for the v-neck.

BEGIN V-NECK

Sizes 4, 6, 8: (parentheses will now be in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, Bobble in next st. (Sc in next st, bobble in next st) 6 (7, 8) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 15 (17, 19) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, bobble in next st. *Sc in next st, bobble in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in last st. TURN.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. Sk 1 hdc. With WS facing, Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

V-neck for Sizes 2, 10, 12: (parentheses now shown in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) 6 (9, 10) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 14 (20, 22) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. *Bobble in next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st. TURN.  

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (11, 11) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. With WS facing, sk 1 hdc. Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

SLEEVES

With G hook, Ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. Turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn.

Rep row 2 for a total of 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: You can adjust the width of the band of your sleeves if desired! You will just need to add or subtract rows to the band of ribbing. However, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows total.

Change back to your H hook. Working along the side of ribbing, sc 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) across. (1 sc per row) Turn.

If you have adjusted the number of rows in your band, simply do 1 sc in each row. Remember, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows in your ribbing, and thus also a multiple of 2+1 sc after this row.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), 2 hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st across till one sc left. 2 hdc in last sc. Turn. (2 increases made)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in first st. (Sk next st, 2 hdc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 5: Rep row 3

Row 6: Rep row 4

Row 7: Rep row 3

Rep rows 2-7 for a total of 31, (31, 37, 37, 43, 43) rows OR until sleeve reaches desired length!

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: If you adjust the length of the sleeves, make sure to check the width to make sure it fits around the arm!

Repeat sleeve instructions for second sleeve!

ASSEMBLY

Note: I used single crochet seams for all assembly for extra strength. However, feel free to use any seaming method you prefer.

Lay your panels together as the first picture below shows, with right sides together and wrong sides facing out. Sew the tops of the v-neck to the adjacent part of the back panel, using your preferable seaming method.

Step 2:

With right sides together, fold sleeve in half. Sew up the side of the sleeve, then turn it right side out as shown below.

Step 3: Attaching the sleeves

This method for attaching your sleeves might be slightly counterintuitive at first, but trust me… it works! (And its genius!)

Begin by laying out your panels with the WRONG sides facing out. Then lay one sleeve in the middle, with the sleeve seam facing the bottom of the sweater. (first picture)

Then take the back panel and bring it over the front panel & the sleeve to make a sort of “sleeve sandwich”.

Next, sew around the entire opening of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panel. I like to start at the top, sew down one side and fasten off, and then start at the top again, sew down the other side of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panels.

When you’ve finished seaming, turn your sweater right side out!

FINISHING

Join yarn with a sc at the back of neck opening. Sc around the entire neck opening. Join with a sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting! 🙂

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!