The puff stitch is a favorite of mine. It gives crocheting an extra air of elegance! We will make them into V’s for this stitch, and then alternate them in a neat way! The result is a classic stitch I know you’ll love.

If you make this stitch, please share pictures!! I absolutely LOVE it when I’m able to see what you guys are making! You can post in the Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram.

Want to get rid of the ads? This stitch pattern is available as apart of a PDF bundle with 3 OTHER stitch patterns—all my November stitches! From this PDF, you can easily print out the patterns, or view it without ads.

Also, in case you haven’t heard…this stitch was apart of the Desert Blossom Stitch Along. There is a now a huge library of unique crochet stitches on the blog! View the Master List here. This way, you’ll be able to see pictures of all the individual stitches and learn your favorites!

HOW TO CROCHET THE Alternating Puff STITCH

All right, let’s get started on this stitch pattern!

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

NOTES: 

1. Stitch pattern is multiple of 4+3
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc

MATERIALS

You can potentially use ANY yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here’s what I used:

• Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver, but you can use anything)
• H/5mm Hook

SPECIAL STITCH: PUFF STITCH (PUFF ST)

YO, insert hook into indicated st. YO, pull up a loop. (YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull up a loop) 2 times. YO, pull through 6 loops on hook. YO, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

Unfamiliar with this stitch? No problem! View this blog post or watch the video tutorial below before starting on the full alternating puff stitch pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS:

NOTE: For a picture tutorial going along with these written instructions, be sure to view the other video in this post! It will show you pictures to help with any tricky steps. You can pause it at any time if you need to focus in on a given step!

Fsc a multiple of 4+3 (to start with a chain stitch, you’ll need a multiple of 4, and then one row of single crochet). 

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, (puff st, ch 2, puff st) in next fsc. Sk next fsc, dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 1 fsc left. Dc in last fsc, turn. 

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next puff st, dc in next ch-2 sp. *Sk next puff st, (puff st, ch 2, puff st) in next dc. Sk next puff st, dc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 1 puff st and 2 dc are left. Sk last puff st, dc in last 2 dc, turn. 

GET THIS STITCH PATTERN AD-FREE + BONUS STITCHES!

Click HERE to buy the inexpensive PDF pattern, which includes all the Thanksgiving themed stitches below:

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. (Puff st, ch 2, puff st) in next dc. *Sk next puff st, dc in next ch-2 sp. Sk next puff st, (puff st, ch 2, puff st) in next dc. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Dc in last 2 dc, turn. 

Rep rows 2-3 for stitch pattern!

I hope you have enjoyed learning this fun stitch pattern.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Alternating Puff Stitch appeared first on .

Fall is definitely my favorite season. I always feel so inspired by the color-changing leaves and cooler weather! Another thing I’ve always loved about fall is collecting pinecones. When I was younger, my family would go out and collect bags full of them for decoration, as well as for fires.

In my mind, I was always looking for the “perfect” pinecone, you know? It was disappointing to pick up a beautiful one only to find that it was wet and disgusting on the other side. Oh well, haha. The point is that pinecones are so much fun! I hope I’ve done them justice with this pinecone-inspired stitch.

So lets talk about the structure of this stitch. The main part is centered around puff stitches—we will alternate those with chain spaces for a neat effect! In between the section of puff stitches, there are small sections of single crochet and tiny chain spaces.

Overall, it’s easy and fun to make! Also, If you’re new to the puff stitch, don’t worry. I have a tutorial right here that you can check out (it’s not hard to make!)

If you make this stitch, please share pictures!! I absolutely LOVE it when I’m able to see what you guys are making! You can post in the Facebook group, or tag me on Instagram.

Want to get rid of the ads? This stitch pattern is available as apart of a PDF bundle with 3 OTHER stitch patterns—all my October stitches! From this PDF, you can easily print out the patterns, or view it without ads.

Also, in case you haven’t heard…this stitch is apart of the Desert Blossom Stitch Along, which is running throughout all of 2019! Be sure to view the master list of stitches released so far HERE, or join the community in my Facebook Group HERE.

HOW TO CROCHET THE PINECONE STITCH

All right, let’s get started on this stitch pattern!

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

NOTES: 

1. Stitch pattern is multiple of 2+1
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc

MATERIALS

You can potentially use ANY yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here’s what I used:

• Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Mary Maxim Starlette, but you can use anything)
• H/5mm Hook

SPECIAL STITCH: PUFF STITCH (PUFF ST)

YO, insert hook into indicated st. YO, pull up a loop. (YO, insert hook into same st, YO, pull up a loop) 2 times. YO, pull through 6 loops on hook. YO, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

Instructions:

NOTE: For a picture tutorial going along with these written instructions, be sure to view the video in the player! It will show you pictures to help with any tricky steps. You can pause it at any time if you need to focus in on a given step!

Fsc a multiple of 2+1 (to start with a chain stitch, you’ll need a multiple of 2, and then one row of single crochet). 

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Ch 1, Sk next fsc, puff st in next fsc. Rep from * until 3 fsc left. Ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in last 2 fsc, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Puff st in next ch-sp. *Ch 1, sk next puff st, puff st in next ch-sp. Rep from * across all ch-sps. Dc in last 2 dc, turn. 

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, sc in next puff st. *Sc in next ch-sp, sc in next puff st. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Sc in last 2 dc, turn. (You should have the same amount of sc as your fsc row.)

GET THIS STITCH PATTERN AD-FREE + BONUS STITCHES!

Click HERE to buy the inexpensive PDF pattern, which includes all the Thanksgiving themed stitches below:

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc. *Ch 2, sk next sc, sc in next sc. Rep from * across, turn. 

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in ea sc and ea ch-sp across, turn. (You should have the same amount of sc as your fsc row.)

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next sc. *Ch 1, sk next sc, puff st in next sc. Rep from * until 3 sc left. Ch 1, sk next sc, dc in last 2 sc, turn.

Rep rows 2-6 for stitch pattern!

I hope you have enjoyed learning this fun stitch pattern.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Pinecone Stitch appeared first on .

I was looking through a stitch dictionary to find a nice stitch for a cardigan pattern I’m designing, and I stumbled upon a cluster stitch that looked interesting. However, it didn’t quite fit the “look” I wanted for my design, so I played with it until I got the exact look I wanted.

Find the free crochet tutorial & instructions below, or purchase a print-friendly, ad-free PDF with 4 stitch patterns here.

A Unique Crochet Stitch

This crochet stitch has a lot of unique things about it, but I think what I like most is that you can see multiple different things in the decorative stitch pattern.

Some people have called it an angel stitch, a bow stitch, and I saw pansy flowers!

That’s what I love about crochet stitches so much. The eye can focus on different parts of them and see different things.

Anyway, I really like the way it turned out, so I want to share the stitch pattern with you guys!

You can scroll down to view the free tutorial, but…

If you want to put this stitch into action, I’ve created a cardigan pattern from it as well! This is one of my most popular patterns – see below.

Click here to make the Angelica Cardigan, which incorporates the Pansy Stitch!

Want to download and print this stitch pattern?

You can! I have also created a bundle of 4 lace stitch patterns on Etsy which can be found below. Included is the Pansy Stitch, plus 3 OTHER lace stitch patterns written out for easy printing. Find this HERE!

More Tips & Tutorials

• How to Crochet the Heart Stitch
• Beginners Guide to Foundation Single Crochet
• Learn how to Block Your Crochet Projects
• 7 Easy Tips for Organizing Your Yarn Stash
• How to Crochet the Trinity Stitch

How to Crochet the Pansy Stitch

All right, let’s get started!

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To add this Stitch Pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE

Watch the video tutorial for this stitch below, or keep scrolling for the written pattern!

Notes:

1. The stitch pattern is a multiple of 3+1 stitches
2. The first few rows are just in written instructions; the trickier rows have a full picture tutorial.

Materials:

You can potentially use any yarn and hook to do this stitch. Here is what I used:

• Worsted Weight Yarn
• G Hook

Special Stitches:

2-dc cluster: *YO, insert hook in ch indicated, YO and pull up a loop. YO, draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * once more. YO, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

TR Cluster (tutorial for this stitch is included farther down): *YO twice, insert hook in next hdc, YO and pull up a loop, (YO, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Rep from * 2 times more, YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Htr (half triple crochet): YO twice, insert hook in indicated st and pull up loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through 3 loops.

Row 1:

Fsc 25, or a multiple of 3+1 stitches. For a complete tutorial on foundation single crochet (fsc) click HERE! 

Row 2-5:

Ch 2 (counts as a hdc, here and throughout). Hdc in each st across. Turn.

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Row 6 (full tutorial):

Ch 3, tr in next stitch.

Ch 3, work 2-dc cluster (see special sts) into 3rd ch from hook.

Work TR Cluster into next three stitches. Follow next four pictures (step 3-6) for a full tutorial on this stitch.

Now, simply keep repeating steps 2-6 all across the row! You should be alternating between 2-dc clusters and TR clusters, until 2 hdc are left.

Like this pattern so far? Want the printer-friendly version (plus 3 BONUS stitch patterns—see picture below!)

Click HERE for more information!

Tr in next st. Htr in last st. Turn.

Row 7:

Ch 2, hdc in next tr.

Sc in top of next 2-dc cluster.

*Ch 4, sc in top of next small cluster. Rep from * across all 2-dc clusters. Hdc in last 2 tr. Turn.

Row 8:

Ch 2, hdc in next st. (3 hdc in next ch-4 sp) across. Hdc in last 2 hdc.

Row 9-11:

Ch 2, hdc in each st across.

Repeat rows 6-11 for Stitch Pattern!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my tutorials, click HERE. 

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Pansy Stitch appeared first on .

So, let’s say you know the basics of tapestry crochet. You can change colors, carry non-working colors, etc. But there may be a couple things you still don’t know.

Is sure didn’t know these things when I first did tapestry crochet. In fact, I even started designing a project unaware of these important details! The result was that I had to rip out a ton of work and start over.

• To Pin this tutorial to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To Ask a question about this tutorial, click HERE
• To view the first tutorial in this series, Beginner’s Guide to Tapestry Crochet, click HERE

If you’ve done any amount of tapestry crochet, you’ve probably noticed something: whether working in rows or rounds, the stitches don’t sit right on top of each other. Because of the nature of a single crochet stitch, the color changes slant to one side. (P.S. If you’re NEW to tapestry crochet, check out the first post I did in this series—Beginner’s Guide to Tapestry Crochet!)

Now, when you’re making a pretty “picture” in the tapestry crochet, it is inconvenient that the colors don’t line up in each row.

BUT…did you know there is a method that gets rid of this annoying slant?! THAT is what I want to share with you today!!

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Getting rid of the Slant

There are 3 things you have to do to get rid of the slanting colors in tapestry crochet.

#1. Work in the Round

Yes, this method only works with projects in the round. That is why it is perfect for baskets, purses, etc. If your project must be worked in rows, then unfortunately this method won’t work.

FREE CROCHET PATTERNS I LOVE (AND YOU SHOULD TOO!)

1. NIAGARA CARDIGAN / 2. NEW YORK SIGN / 3. WAVE SHAWL

2. Work in the Back Loop

The second part to this method is working in the back loop of stitches. In other words, normally you would go through the 2 top loops of the stitch. However, now you will skip the front loop and insert your hook only in the back loop.

3. Change Your Yarn Over

Hang on…I know this sounds weird. But trust me, it’s not too hard. Basically, you’re just going to Yarn Over from the opposite direction.

Normally you would put the yarn over your hook from the left. Instead, put the yarn over your hook from the right. See picture below.

Modified Single Crochet

SO…by working in the BL and changing your Yarn Over, we get a slightly different version of the regular sc. In tapestry crochet, this stitch is called the modified single crochet. 

Basically, this stitch just allows for all your color changes to sit right on top of each other. No more slant! I don’t know about you, but I was so happy to learn this method!

So…do you think you’re ready to try an ACTUAL pattern using this method? I hope you are! Because I am just about to publish a new FREE tapestry crochet pattern using these exact methods. See the picture below!

As you can see, the Little Pumpkin Basket is made in the round, and clearly uses the modified single crochet stitch. It is a perfect Fall pattern—and you can view the free pattern here!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my tutorials, click HERE. 

Happy Crocheting!

— Rachel 

The post Tapestry Crochet Secrets You Need to Know appeared first on .

Awhile back I finally jumped into colorwork and started learning about it. Recently I’ve gotten into Tapestry Crochet, which is a beautiful method for changing colors! (I mostly love it because you’re left with very few ends to weave in!)

And Tapestry Crochet is not too hard. It is really very simple to learn, so in this post I want to give you a beginner’s guide to tapestry crochet!

• To Pin this tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To ask a question about this tutorial, click HERE
• To view the 2nd Post in this series, Secrets of Tapestry Crochet, click HERE

Before we get started, let me show you a few examples of Tapestry crochet.

Below is a tapestry crochet design I am currently working on! Can you tell what it is?

As you can see, color is EVERYTHING in Tapestry crochet! The possibilities are endless!

So, there’s a couple things you need to know before we get into the basics of this technique.

First, Tapestry crochet can be worked both in rows and in rounds. Personally, I prefer to work it in rounds (like the cactus basket above) because the overall result is much cleaner. However, rows are also possible.

Also, this post does not cover every single detail of tapestry crochet. We will be going over the basic things you need to know in order to start your first project. We will go over how carry colors and how to change colors.

And, I will be doing some follow-up posts! In the coming days I’ll go over other details, such as how to read a tapestry crochet chart, and other details you’ll want to know! Be sure to subscribe to my email list to see these posts when they’re published.

All right, lets begin!

How to Carry Colors

Okay, this is one of the most important elements of tapestry crochet. Because of this technique, you will only have a few ends to weave in when your project is done!

Basically, whenever you aren’t using a color, you will crochet over it with your working color. Follow the picture tutorial below:

As you can see, the orange yarn is hidden within the tan stitches!

Basically, whenever you’re not using a color, you will hide it in this way. Then you’ll pick it up again when you’re ready to switch colors. Learn how to do the color switch by reading on below!

How to Change Colors

This is probably the most important step in Tapestry crochet.

First, begin a regular single crochet stitch with your working color (in the pictures, the working color is tan.) Insert hook into next stitch, YO, draw up a loop with working color.

Now, drop the working yarn and pick up the new color. Finish the stitch you started with this new color—YO, draw through 2 loops.

As you can see in the picture below, we have a tan stitch, with an orange top loop. Now you will be continuing with the orange, and hiding, or “carrying” the tan within the orange stitches.

Below, I have changed colors and continued with the orange. As you can see, the color change is completely seamless.

These are the 2 most basic principles in Tapestry crochet! Now that you know how to carry colors and change colors, you have a great foundation to start this technique. As I said before, however, there are some more “ins and outs” that everyone should know about tapestry crochet.

Now you know some basics of tapestry crochet…but there’s still more to learn! I have a follow up post about tapestry crochet that talks about some other secrets you need to know. Find that post here!

To be the first to see new tutorials like this, sign up below.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my tutorials, click HERE. 

Happy Crocheting!

— Rachel

The post Beginner’s Guide to Tapestry Crochet appeared first on .

The Shell Trellis stitch is truly a beautiful lace stitch. Lace is one of my favorite things to crochet—and believe it or not, it’s not hard to make! This tutorial will include detailed photos to make sure you know what you’re doing. And if you have any questions, always feel free to contact me! 

I first heard about this stitch in a wonderful pattern by Interweave Crochet. I am going to do a review of this pattern next week, so look out for that! If you want to hear about it right away, you can sign up for my email list below.

Love this stitch? I made a top using this stitch, and it turned out beautiful! Read about it HERE. 

Before we get into the pattern, lets just quickly talk about yarn. The yarn I am using here is called Knit Picks Galileo. This is a gorgeous sport-weight yarn that has lovely bounce and drape. You can get some for yourself HERE!  

Shell Trellis Stitch

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To ask a question about this tutorial, click HERE
• To buy the yarn I used in this tutorial, click HERE

Note:

Stitch Pattern is a multiple of 10. I started with a foundation chain of 30.

Materials:

• Any yarn—I used Knit Picks Galileo, which is a sport weight yarn
• A hook that is suitable for your chosen yarn; I used a G hook

Special Stitch:

Shell (sh): 5 dc in indicated stitch.

Instructions:

Ch a multiple of 10 (I recommend starting with at least 30 ch like I did)

Row 1: sk first ch, sc in ea ch across. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), dc in next sc. *Sk 2 sts, sh in next st. Sk 2 sts, sc in next st. Ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st. Rep from *till 7 sts left. Sk 2 sts, sh in next st. Sk 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts. Turn.

FREE CROCHET PATTERNS I LOVE (AND YOU SHOULD TOO!)

1. NIAGARA CARDIGAN / 2. NEW YORK SIGN / 3. WAVE SHAWL

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in middle dc of next sh. (see fig 1) *Ch 5, sc in ch-5 sp (see fig 2). Ch 5, sc in middle dc of next sh. Rep from * across. Ch 3, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp. *Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp. Sh in next sc. Sc in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * until only ch-3 sp is left. Ch 5, sc in last ch-3 sp. Ch 1, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Like this tutorial so far? Enter your email below to be the first to find out about new tutorials, AND to find out about a pattern I made using this stitch!

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp. *Ch 5, sc in middle dc of next sh. Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp. Rep from * across. Ch 3, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk ch-3 sp, sh in next sc. *Sc in next ch-5 sp. Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp. Sh in next sc. Rep from * across. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Rep rows 3-6 for stitch pattern.

Finishing:

I recommend blocking this stitch, as it opens up very nicely and looks even more beautiful! To learn the 3 blocking methods, click here. 

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! And remember, I made a beautiful crochet top using this stitch pattern. If you want to read about it, click here. 

To view all of my tutorials, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new tutorials like this, sign up for my email list below!

The post How to Crochet the Shell Trellis Stitch appeared first on .

And while we will probably never be able to create the exact same look and texture in crocheting, we CAN come close. Let me show you how to crochet the woven stitch—a stitch that looks very much like knitting!

Disclosure: this post may contain affiliate links. 

How to Crochet the Woven Stitch

Let me start off and tell you that this stitch is super close to a regular single-crochet. Don’t be scared off—it’s really easy. The ONLY difference is where you put your hook. Seriously. A simple change of where you start creates a whole different look in the fabric. Cool, right?

So let’s get started!

• Pin this tutorial to your Pinterest boards HERE
• Ask a question about this tutorial HERE
• To view ALL my tutorials, click HERE
• To buy the same yarn I am using, click HERE

Step 1:

The woven stitch will always start out with a regular row of single crochet. To practice this stitch, begin with a chain of any amount (probably around 10-20 stitches would be good). Then skip the first chain and single-crochet across the rest of the chain. Make sure you do not crochet this row too tightly, or the woven stitch will be more difficult. 

Step 2:

Now ch 1 and turn your work like you’re starting a new row (the ch does not count as a st.) Make another regular sc in the first stitch of the new row.

(Basically, you will have a regular sc on each end of your row, but the for the other stitches you will insert your hook a different way. See next step!)

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Step 3: How To Insert Your Hook

Okay, so now you’re ready to create your first “woven” stitch!

Here’s how it works: normally you would insert your hook into the top two loops of a stitch. However, with the woven stitch, you will insert your hook into the middle of the stitch.

If you look at a regular sc from the wrong side, there are 3 main parts of the stitch OTHER than the ones you would normally insert your hook into. There is the one horizontal bar, right underneath the top loops. And then there are the 2 vertical bars. It is in between those 2 vertical bars that you want to insert your hook

The picture below shows some little white arrows pointing to this exact place!

Here is a picture showing what the hook looks like when inserted:

Now, simply complete a regular single-crochet! Yarn over and pull through the stitch.

By the way—the yarn I’m using here is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta. This yarn is truly soft and wonderful to work with! Get some for yourself HERE. 

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

Then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on hook.

Repeat Step 3 all across your row, until you get to the last stitch.

For the last stitch, work another regular sc in the top loops. The two normal sc keep the edges neat.

One Last Tip:

Remember how I said at the very beginning to make sure your first row of sc isn’t too tight? Well, tension is definitely something important for this stitch, because if you crochet too tightly, it will be impossible to make your hook fit through those two vertical bars. This applies for all rows. If you’re having trouble inserting your hook, try making the first loop you pull up a bit looser. This will make the two vertical bars looser, thus allowing for smoother entry of the hook.

That’s really all there is to it! When you crochet the woven stitch over many rows, it creates an effect very similar to knitting. Personally, I like using it way better than regular single-crochet.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! To view all of my tutorials, click HERE.

The post How to Crochet the Woven Stitch (Looks Like Knitting!) appeared first on .

If that’s you, I am here to tell you that you CAN make lace. Trust me. If you can do basic stitches—chains and double crochets—you can make lace. Many people think that only experienced crocheters can do lace. However, crochet lace is actually very easy to make! Don’t believe me? Keep reading to learn about four types of crochet lace for beginners!

Crochet lace is probably my favorite thing to make. There are so many variations, and all of them are just so pretty! When I was asked to do a guest blog post for Janne from Joy of Motion Crochet, I knew instantly that I wanted to do it on lace. Like I said before, crochet lace is perfect for beginners. Most types are made from simple stitches like double crochets and chains.

If you are completely new to lace, check out the guest blog post I did on Joy of Motion Crochet, How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. There, I will give you some more info on lace.

If you are already familiar with lace, that post is for you as well, as I also give some tips on learning to design your own crochet lace. Janne has an amazing site, and I would love for you to check it out!

Crochet Lace for Beginners

• To pin this post to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To get an ebook of 13 lace stitch patterns, click HERE

In this post I want to show you the stitch patterns for the swatches I did in How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. Like I said before, these are very easy to make. If you practice making these swatches, it should give you a great handle on lace. Then you can start applying your new knowledge by trying a lace pattern!

Materials:

I used the same materials for all four swatches:

• Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn
• F (3.75mm) crochet hook
• Blocking Materials

Notes:

You could easily use ANY yarn for these swatches. However, if you are looking for a fingering yarn at a decent price, I would definitely recommend Knit Picks Stroll. It is soft, it blocks well, and it comes in a variety of colors.

As far as blocking goes: while it is not necessary, I would highly recommend it. If you don’t know how to block, learn how here.You won’t regret it, trust me! Blocking is one of the most worthwhile techniques you can learn.

About the swatches: I will tell you to start each one using foundation single crochet. This is my preference, and I recommend using this stitch. However, it is not necessary; you can start with a chain stitch if you would rather. Simply follow the included instructions for how many chains you will need, and then do a single crochet row on top of the chains.

Swatch #1: Basic Shells

Now to the lace! This swatch is just about as easy at it gets! The shells are simply made using double crochets stitches. Not too scary, right?

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (learn fsc here!) Or if you would rather start with a chain, do a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Related Posts

• Easy Crochet Lace Cardigan with FULLY ADJUSTABLE Sizing
• How to Crochet the Stacked Shell Stitch
• Easy Lace Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern
• How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in the swatch below). Like I said before, you could easily make this into a scarf by repeating row 1 until the piece is longer.

Do you believe me now? This crochet lace is for beginners! Anyone who can crochet can make this.

Like these patterns so far? I bet you’ll love my ebook of 13 OTHER lace stitch patterns (that use simple stitches just like these! Grab the ebook here.

Swatch #2: V Shells

This shell, also known as a v-stitch, is definitely a must-know. It is incorporated into many types of lace. (For more info on these stitches, don’t forget to read the post on Joy of Motion Crochet!)

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp of shell from previous row. Rep from * across all ch-spaces. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in my swatch).

Swatch #3: Twisted Stitches

I absolutely love the look of twisted stitches. For one thing, they look similar certain types of knitting. At the same time, they are also really fun to make. Once you get the hang of them, you easily get in a great rhythm.

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 2 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 4, tr in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, tr in next fsc. Working behind tr just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in next tr. *Sk next tr, tr in next tr. Working behind st just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 6 rows in the swatch).

TUTORIAL For One Twisted Stitch:

Swatch 4: Pineapple Lace

Out of all lace, pineapple is a classic that I will never grow tired of. I love incorporating pineapples into my designs. Even though it looks complicated, don’t let that scare you off. Pineapples are made of basic stitches.

Instructions:

Fsc 13 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need to ch 14, and then do a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next 2 fsc. Sk 3 fsc, 9 dc in next fsc. Sk 3 fsc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 4 times. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times. Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 2 times. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

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Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next 2 ch-4 spaces. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. 9 dc in next ch-4 sp. Dc in last 3 dc.

Repeat rows 2-8 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 14 rows in the swatch below). If you kept repeating this, it would make a great kid’s scarf!

If you are new to lace, I would encourage you to practice with these swatches! Start with the easiest one, and work your way up. Once you’re familiar with the way lace works, try a pattern! Don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone a little bit and try something new. I guarantee you won’t regret it! If you’re ready to try designing your OWN lace, don’t forget to check out the follow up post on Joy of Motion Crochet!

If you want to venture even further into lace, I have a special offer for you, like I mentioned earlier!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

The post 4 Types of Crochet Lace For Beginners appeared first on .

Let me just tell you right now: that is NOT true. It IS possible to block acrylic! It requires a bit of a different method than natural fibers, but it turns out every bit as good. And actually, its pretty fun to do.

Trust me. I have done this personally, and it works. Curious? Read on to find out how.

You can block your acrylic projects using an AMAZING technique called Steam Blocking. This method uses steam to “iron” out your stitches and force them to lay flat, without actually touching the yarn.

It is actually pretty fun to watch this in action!

In fact, if you want to see me explain the steps in 30 seconds, watch my new video tutorial below! Or, keep scrolling to learn the 4 easy steps to blocking acrylic yarn.

Like this video? Make sure to come subscribe to my YouTube channel for more!

Back to the topic at hand – the reason people can be wary of this method is because if you touch the iron to your project, you can actually melt the yarn. This is often called “killing” your project, and it is essentially because acrylic yarn is made out of plastic. I know it sounds scary—but trust me, it is very easily avoidable. I have done this many times with regular household supplies, and I’ve never had any problem.

Softening Acrylic Yarn

In addition to blocking NOT being a bad thing…on the flip side it is actually a very GOOD thing!

Here are the benefits to blocking your projects like I’m about to show you:

1. You’ll be able to soften the acrylic yarn. The steam causes the yarn to relax and it usually ends up MUCH softer. (Yes, red heart super saver included!!)

2. Your project will open up and be so beautiful. In the case of the shawl in the video above, the lacy section in the middle looked SO much better after it was blocked.

Steam Blocking Acrylic Projects

 Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking boards. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like lace), you will definitely want to pin it down. However, with some projects pinning isn’t necessary. If your project isn’t lace, you shouldn’t need to pin it down. If it is made out of a heavier weight yarn, like worsted weight, you also probably don’t need to pin.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting. Like I said before, the yarn will melt if it touches the iron. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And that is all there is to blocking acrylic! Once you try this method, you will never go back! It it so fun to watch the steam envelope the stitches…and then pull your project up and find it perfectly blocked!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

To find out about ALL blocking methods, visit this post. To view all my free patterns, click here.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Block Acrylic Without Killing Your Project appeared first on .

If that’s you, worry no more. Trust me–I was exactly like you. I read that blocking phrase and shuddered. I even scoffed, thinking there was absolutely no reason to block. On the one hand, I didn’t have any idea how to block. On the other hand, I had no desire to learn. It wasn’t worth my time, I said.

Do You Have to Block Your Crochet?

So if you’ve heard about blocking, but you’re wondering if you really HAVE to learn it…let me just tell you something.

Although I used to wonder the same thing, I am SO glad I finally learned how to block.

Obviously, you do not HAVE to block your crochet—no one is going to force you to.

But let me tell you—once you start blocking, you won’t want go back. Not convinced? I probably wouldn’t have been either. So let me show you why you should learn this helpful technique.

WHY Block Crochet?

Blocking does a lot of GOOD things for your crochet projects.

It makes the stitches open up—be less crumpled and more drapey.

Another reason blocking crochet is so beneficial is it gives your items a professional look.

Let me show you a couple pictures to get you thinking:

Here is a swatch of a cowl I was in the process of making. As you can see, it is not very attractive, but wrinkled and squished together.

Here is the same cowl laid out while blocking.

And here it is all finished:

As you can see, the stitches have opened up and look both beautiful and professional.

How to Start Blocking Your Crochet

Hopefully the examples above give you an idea of the world of difference blocking can make.

So if blocking is so beneficial…how can you do it?

Well, step one: don’t be afraid! Seriously—if you treat blocking like a scary monster, you will never take the jump and start doing it.

Trust me, it’s not as hard as you might think. I can hardly believe I’m saying this, but I actually enjoy blocking now! It has become a step in crocheting that I look forward to greatly, and it can be that way for you too! Keep reading to learn how to block your projects yourself.

I will show you three easy methods, and walk you through each one step by step.

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Crochet Blocking Mats/Boards

Now, one thing you might be wondering is “do I need a blocking mat?”

While each method of blocking uses different materials, all of the methods will benefit from having a blocking mat.

Notice I used the word “benefit.” It is not absolutely necessary that you invest in mats right away. If you want a cost effective option, just use a towel to block your projects.

However, having a blocking board or mat (it is the same thing) will make the process much easier!

Here are some your buying options for blocking mats on Amazon:

Hephaestus Crafts Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 GRAY Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet. 150 T-pins

$41.99

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04/03/2026 11:33 am GMT

Cheers to Ewe! Foam Knitting Block Mat, Grid Blocking for Knitting Accuracy and Crochet, ½ Inch Thick with 1 Inch Grid, Pack of 9

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Crutello Extra Thick Blocking Mats for Knitting - Pack of 9 White Blocking Boards with Grids for Needlepoint or Crochet - Includes Measuring Tape & 150 T Pins

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Wet, Spray, and Steam Blocking

Before we do a deep dive into blocking, let me give you a little summary of the three methods you can use. The first one is called wet blocking. Personally, this is my favorite method. It is perfect for all types of natural fibers, and will ensure that your project can stretch fully and also maintain it’s form after use.

The next method is spray blocking. Spray blocking is perfect for smaller projects, ones that need to be block, but not stretch drastically. Again, this method works for natural fibers.

The last method is steam blocking. This one was the scariest for me to try— but it’s actually not as bad as I thought! Steam blocking is for acrylic yarn, and it will TRANSFORM your crochet experience. I’m serious. The cowl I showed you pictures of was steam blocked; it actually amazed me how well it worked!

So wait no longer! Let’s dive into these methods together!

Method 1: Wet Blocking

Use this method if:

• Your project is made out of any natural fiber
• You have a project that needs to be stretched or shaped a lot

Do NOT use this method if your project is made out of acrylic yarn. Unlike natural fibers, moisture does not affect acrylic.

Materials:

• A sink
• 2 towels (or 1 towel and a blocking board, if desired)
• Pins (rust-proof is best)

Knitter's Pride Knitter's Knit Blocking & Pins Kit

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Blulu Steel T-pins for Blocking Knitting, Modelling and Crafts 150 Pieces (2 Inch, 1-1/2 Inch)

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04/03/2026 11:13 am GMT

Step 1:

Fill a sink with cold or lukewarm water. Since you’re using natural fibers with wet blocking, you don’t want the water to be hot. (Unless, of course, you’re aiming to felt it–which would be the opposite of blocking!)

Step 2

Put your project in water, fully immersing it.

Step 3

Let your project soak. You want to let it sit until it becomes completely saturated. I normally let mine sit for 15-20 minutes. If your project is large, you may want to rotate it halfway through to make sure the whole thing is wet enough.

Step 4:

Drain the sink. Take your project and carefully squeeze the water out. DO NOT twist it when you squeeze, as this can cause it to lose shape. Instead, take large sections and squeeze gently, pressing the water out. Note that you will not get all the water out this way. That’s what the next step is for…

Step 5:

Take a towel and roll your project in it. Press down gently all over the towel in order to soak up any excess water.

Step 6:

Take another towel and lay it out flat. Spread your crochet project on it. You can use a blocking board instead of a towel if you’d like, but in my experience a towel works perfectly fine.

Step 7:

Pin your project to the towel. Adjust the stitches to lay exactly how you want it to look when finished. Don’t be afraid to stretch the fabric out a lot—that’s exactly the point of wet blocking!

Step 8:

Let your project dry completely. I usually let mine sit overnight to ensure it is fully dry. Finally, take out the pins, and you’re all done!

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1/ Adalyn Pullover 2/ Moonbeam Baskets 3/ Pansy Stitch Pattern

METHOD 2: SPRAY BLOCKING

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made out of natural fibers
• Your project does not need to be stretched drastically
• You need to get your blocking done in a small amount of time

Don’t use this method if your project needs to be shaped and stretched a lot. For that type of project, use wet blocking instead.

MATERIALS:

• Pins
• Towel (or blocking board, if desired)
• Spray bottle

STEP 1:

Lay your project out on a towel (or a blocking board) and pin it down.

STEP 2:

Fill a spray bottle with water, and spray your project until it is damp. (If your project needs to be fully soaked to block and stretch well, you should use wet blocking instead of spray blocking).

STEP 3:

Allow your project to dry, and remove pins. That’s all there is to it!

METHOD 3: STEAM BLOCKING

NOTE: Get even more details about blocking acrylic yarn here.

The regular instructions will be below, but I’ve also added a video tutorial on blocking acrylic below! This is a quick explanation that will hopefully help you even more.

USE THIS METHOD IF:

• Your project is made of acrylic yarn
• Your project needs to be stretched a lot

   Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel or blocking board
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking board. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like the lace cowl I showed at the beginning), you will want to pin down. However, with some projects (especially something that’s not lace) pinning isn’t necessary.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting, or your project will MELT. This is because acrylic yarn is essentially made out of plastic. Crafters call this “killing” your project. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is slightly damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And there are your three blocking methods! Not too complicated, right? As you practice each method, it will get easier and easier. You might even find that you enjoy it!

Before we finish up, let’s cover a few more common questions I see people asking about blocking.

Is Crochet Blocking Permanent?

This is actually a tricky question to answer, because there’s a lot of variables that can go into it!

Here is what I have found in my experience:

For wet blocking, the results will wear off with time (especially if it is a crocheted garment!). You will likely need to re-block them when you wash them.

I like to think of this like regular sweaters you might buy at the store that are hand wash only. When you lay these out to dry, it is very similar to wet blocking! In the same way, when you “wash” a crochet project, it will basically be the process of wet blocking over again.

For spray blocking, it also depends on how much wear the item is getting. Since this technique is usually used for smaller projects, you may find that the blocking lasts a long time. However, if for example the edges start to curl, this is an indicator it could use another block.

For Steam blocking acrylic yarn, I have personally found that the results are more permanent than other methods.

Why? The hot steam locks the acrylic fibers in place. In my experience, when these fibers are set, they are set permanently. For example, I have a shawl made from Lion Brand Mandala yarn that I steam blocked. I’ve used it a ton and it has never lost it’s original blocked shape.

Note that this may not be true across ALL acrylic yarns. Your results may wear off with time depending on the yarn.

Another important thing to remember here is that the results of steam blocking will also be permanent if you do it WRONG. So if you kill your project, there will be no fixing it. Remember to never touch the iron to your crocheting!

Should I Weave in My Ends Before or After Blocking?

Generally, I have found that the result is better when I weave in my ends after blocking.

Here’s the rationale behind that: if you weave in ends beforehand, they have the potential to get misshapen during the blocking process. They may unweave when the project is stretched, for example.

This is why I wait until after blocking to weave in my ends. The project is now at my desired measurements and the ends will have a chance to settle into that.

How to Block a Sweater

Now, one thing in particular that people are afraid to block is SWEATERS!

Yes, it can seem scary, but here’s what I want you to remember (once again): blocking is just like hand washing a regular sweater from the store!

The only difference is that if you’re following a pattern, you will want to block the sweater to the finished measurements that are listed.

I found this YouTube video super helpful in explaining how to do this! Note that the example she uses is a knitted sweater…but the concept is exactly the same for a crocheted sweater.

Here’s just an overview of what to remember when blocking a sweater:

1. Always block a sweater to the finished measurements listed
2. If you have long sleeves, make sure you block them to the same length
3. If you use pins, make sure they don’t pinch the fabric in unnatural ways

In Summary…

Blocking your crochet projects is a wonderful process once you get used to it! With time and effort you too can become a pro.

Related: learn what frogging is in crochet and how to do it!

If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to contact me as I would love to help!

To view last week’s post, a tutorial on foundation single crochet, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

More Beginner Crochet

• How to read crochet charts
• Crochet Stitch that looks like Knitting
• Library of Crochet Stitches

The post How to Block Your Crocheting: 3 Methods appeared first on .