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MEET THE JUNIPER CARDIGAN!

This crochet cardigan was one of those designs that came about very suddenly.

It wasn’t a planned design.

I had tried multiple times to design a summer top, but it never seemed quite right. As a result, I had the yarn for it for quite awhile without successfully using it.

Sometimes, all we need is a change of perspective…

See, I had been trying to design a sweater. It wasn’t until the idea for a lacy summer cardigan came to mind that this design was FINALLY born!

Just the Lace Cardigan Your Summer Wardrobe Needs…

As soon as I decided the yarn would be a cardigan, I quickly set off trying to find the perfect stitch pattern. The one I finally settled on is simple but beautiful!

We will use some large shell stitches, in contrast to some smaller chain loops, to create the beautiful lacy cardigan you see in the picture.

With the lacy stitch + the light yarn, this crochet cardigan pattern becomes a great choice for summer!

Speaking of yarn, I used Lion Brand Beautiful You. If you haven’t tried this yarn yet, it is an absolute must! Don’t be scared off by the light weight (#2 sport).

It really is a beautiful yarn and it makes an even more beautiful summer cardigan. Grab some here if you’re going to make this cardigan!

Anxious to get straight to the pattern? Buy it now HERE!

Designed with Adjustable Sizing So you can get the perfect fit

Let’s be honest, sometimes it is HARD to make crocheted cardigans and sweaters that actually fit well.

As designers, we do our best to accommodate as many sizes as possible…but it’s not easy, because we still all come in different shapes in sizes!

That is why I have designed this cardigan in a way that it can be adjusted to fit ANYONE.

That’s right – from kids all the way up to plus sizes – you can make it all!

Now, you might be thinking, “Rachel, how is this even possible?!”

I know it sounds a little strange. A little different than your typical cardigan pattern.

But I have to say – it works.

Tell me more about adjustable sizing

Ok, let’s dig into this a little deeper! I want you to know exactly how this pattern will work before you buy it.

First of all, the pattern is written in a step-by-step type of format. I walk you through the ENTIRE process of getting the perfect fit – from measuring your chest, to figuring out how big to make your panels!

The very first thing we do is what’s called a “Sizing Prep” Worksheet. This is where I help you figure out your own measurements, as well as the measurements of your cardigan.

Here’s a little sneak peak of the worksheet…

This step-by-step process continues throughout the cardigan pattern. You will make a swatch, block it, and then start the actual cardigan.

To figure out sizing, there are little math equations along the way to get it just the right size.

NOW DON’T WORRY – if math scares you, please do not worry. I hate math myself, and these are just simple little equations.

In fact, I’ve done all the hard work for you by getting the equations ready. All you have to do is plug in your details. You can even use a calculator if desired!

These equations basically help you figure out your starting chain number, your stitch counts, and things like that.

Other Summer Garment Patterns

1/ Summer Breeze Vest 2/ Lunar Lace Tunic 3/ Shelby Top

Juniper Cardigan Notes & Materials

Here’s a few more details you’ll probably want to know about the cardigan before you purchase the pattern!

• To pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To purchase this Premium PDF pattern, click HERE
• To buy the yarn for this cardigan, click HERE

Materials:

• Lion Brand Beautiful You Yarn
• Or 900-2,000 yards of sport weight yarn (depending on size)
• G (4.25mm) hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Triple crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over

Sizing/Fit: 

This pattern is fully adjustable, meaning it is designed in such a way to allow you to make it to fit your body perfectly! 

The fit: This sweater is designed to have positive ease. The instructions will include steps for adding ease into your sweater. I recommend adding anywhere from 7-10” of positive ease. The more ease you add, the more oversized your cardigan will be.   

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 30.”

Notes:

1. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc. 
2. Ch 4 at beginning of rows counts as tr
3. Cardigan is made from 1 large panel: the back is worked first in a rectangle, and then the front is split and made into 2 separate panels (but still attached to the back). The only sewing that needs to be done is up the sides.
4. All pieces of the cardigan start with a foundation single crochet row (fsc). If you are unfamiliar with this technique, check out this blog post. Starting with a regular chain stitch is not recommended because it won’t be as stretchy. But if you need to start with a chain, just be sure to add one more chain to your starting row number. Then, skip the first chain and work one row of sc across (this will give the same result of fsc, just less stretchy).

Special Stitch:

Shell (sh): (tr, 2 dc, tr) in indicated stitch or space

To get access to the FULL PDF pattern, complete with adjustable sizing, written instructions, photo tutorials, and more, just click below!

I hope you enjoy the Juniper Cardigan It was such a joy to create!

To view all my free patterns, click HERE.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com

Want a special bonus straight to your inbox? Sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting!

The post Juniper Cardigan – Lace Crochet Cardigan Pattern for Summer appeared first on .

This light Spring market bag, made out of cotton, is the perfect way to carry your fruits and vegetables, “go green” by avoiding plastic bags, and yet stay stylish at the same time!

This pattern is also the PERFECT way to put the stitches in the Desert Blossom Stitch Along to practical use! This stitch sampler bag uses 4 of the stitches from March! Read on to see which stitches are used.

As always, you can grab the inexpensive, ad-free version of this pattern in my store. A big thanks ahead of time to all who purchase! It’s such a huge support to me & my small business.

Also, can we take a minute and just admire my tester’s version of this bag? The colors are gorgeous, don’t you think?

Here are the stitches used in this bag:

#1: The Foliage Stitch (will be released next Saturday!)

#2: The Fir Stitch (aka the V-Stitch

#3: The Sprout Stitch

Like this pattern? Sign up for my email list to get new free patterns right to your inbox!

March Market Bag

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Notes:

1. Ch 2 at beginning of rounds does NOT count as st
2. Ch 1 at beginning of rounds does NOT count as st
3. Ch 3 at beginning of rounds does count as st
4. Bag is worked in joined rounds from the bottom up.

Materials:

• Approximately 300 yards of sport weight cotton yarn
• Sample yarn: Patons Grace, 2 skeins  
• F/3.75mm Hook
• Yarn needle

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Royalty Scarf 2/ Liberty Bell 3/ Helena Shawl

Measurements:

Approximately 14” tall (not including strap) and 13” wide.  

Special Stitches:

Double Crochet 4 Together (Dc4tog): *YO, insert hook into next st, YO, pull up loop. YO, draw through 2 loops. Rep from * 3 times more. YO, pull through last 5 loops on hook.

Beginning Double Crochet 4 Together (Beg Dc4tog): Ch 2. YO, insert hook into next st, pull up loop. YO, draw through 2 loops. Rep from * 2 times more. YO, pull through last 4 loops on hook.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Single crochet 2 together – sc2tog

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Half Double Crochet 2 Together – hdc2tog

Double crochet – dc

Triple crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Instructions:

Ch 3.

Rnd 1: 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to beg hdc (NOT the ch 2).  

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as hdc, here and throughout) 2 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. (20 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. (30 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (50 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (60 hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (70 hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (80 hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (90 hdc)

Rnd 10: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (100 hdc)

Rnd 11: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 9 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (110 hdc)

Rnd 12: Ch 2, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 10 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 13: Ch 2, hdc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 14: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk 2 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Ch 1, sk last 2 sts, join with sl st to beg ch 3. (40 2 dc clusters).

Rnd 15: Ch 3, dc in same st as sl st. 2 dc in next dc, sk next ch-1. *2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. Sk next ch 1, Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. (160 dc).

Rnd 16: Beg dc4tog over first 4 sts. *Ch 2, dc4tog over next 4 sts. Rep from * around. Ch 2, join with sl st to beg dc4tog. (40 dc4tog).

Rnd 17: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk ch-2 sp, 2 dc in next dc4tog. Rep from * around. Ch 1, sl st to beg ch 3. (40 2 dc clusters).

Rnd 18-19: Rep rnds 15-16.

Rnd 20: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp. *Hdc in next dc4tog, 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 21: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in ea st around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 22: Ch 5 (counts as a dc, ch 2) dc in same st as sl st. *Sk 2 hdc. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next hdc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Sk last 2 sts, sl st to beg ch 3. (40 V-Stitches)

Rnd 23: Sl st in next ch-2 sp. Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) dc in same ch-2 sp. *(Dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * around all ch-2 spaces. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. (40 v-stitches)

Rnd 24: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next ch-2 sp. *Hdc in next 2 dc, hdc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 1 dc left. Hdc in last dc. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (40 hdc)

Rnd 25: Ch 4 (counts as tr) 3 tr in same st as sl st. Sk 3 hdc. *4 tr in next hdc, sk 3 hdc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 4. (30 4 tr clusters)

Rnd 26: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) hdc in same st as sl st and in each tr around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (120 hdc)

Rnd 27-29: Rep rows 22-24

Rnd 30: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next 5 sts, Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. *Hdc in next 6 sts, hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (105 hdc)

Rnd 31: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next 4 sts. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. *Hdc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. (90 hdc) Do not fasten off.

STRAP:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in same st as sl st. *Ch 1, sk 2 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc. Rep from * 9 times more. (11 2-dc clusters) TURN.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout strap) dc in next dc. Sk next ch, 2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. *Sk next ch, dc in between next 2 dc. Sk next ch, 2 dc in next dc. 2 dc in next dc. Rep from * 3 times more. Sk last ch, dc in last 2 dc. TURN.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 1, dc4tog over next 4 dc. *Ch 2, sk next dc, dc4tog over next 4 dc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Ch 1, dc in last 2 dc. TURN.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does NOT count as sc, here and throughout strap) sc in first 2 sts. Sc in next ch sp. *Sc in next dc4tog, sc in next ch sp. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Sc in last 2 dc. TURN. (15 sc)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next 11 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. TURN. (13 sc)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next 9 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. TURN. (11 sc)

Row 7-33: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts. TURN. (11 sc)

Go back to the beginning of the strap—Rnd 31. Sk 14 sts. Join yarn with a sl st in next st. Then repeat rows 1-33 for the other side of the strap.

Finishing: Sew the 2 ends of the strap together. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Thank you so much for purchasing this pattern! I hope you have enjoyed it. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

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