Shelby Top—Free Crochet Pattern For Summer

I am so excited to share a new crochet summer top pattern with you all: the Shelby Top! This lace crochet top is just what your summer wardrobe needs!

I don’t know about you, but summer is in full swing around here. And I am always looking for a nice light top that I won’t get too hot in.

That’s why the Shelby Top is made of linen! The amazing yarn I used, from Darn Good Yarn, is thin and breathable—perfect for summer.

Shelby Top—Free Summer Crochet Pattern

The yarn I used is called a Sport Weight Linen 2 ply. It is such a pretty yarn; check it out HERE!

In case you can’t tell, I’m kind of a lace fanatic. I’m always looking for new ways to combine lace with simple stitches for a pretty, elegant result! That’s exactly what I tried to accomplish with this top. Large, open triple-crochet clusters alternate with simple double crochet for a beautiful finished result!

Another great thing about this top is the flexibility I’ve included in the sizing. Along the pattern, you will see “size adjustment tips”—and I really hope you guys maximize your use of these! They are designed to help you customize the fit of the garment. You still have finished pattern instructions, but you can also deviate from those if you feel the need.

The length adjustment tips are especially there to help you. It was hard to put the length into one measurement for each size because of the large repeats of dc and tr rows. And the length can vary so much depending on your body type! So definitely feel free to follow the adjustment instructions and customize your length.

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The picture above shows one of my testers’ Shelby Tops—isn’t it gorgeous?

One other note—you can get the ad-free PDF on Etsy and Ravelry if you’d like an easily printable pattern!

Shelby Top

Let’s get started on the Shelby Top now!

  • To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
  • To get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE.
  • To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE.

Materials:

  • Darn Good Yarn Sport Weight Linen 2 Ply: 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) skeins. 
  • Or sport weight yarn in the following yardage: Approximately 870 (1,050, 1,350, 1,580, 1,950) yards
  • F (3.75mm) hook (or size to obtain gauge)
  • Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Triple crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS – right side

Sizing: 

Sizes shown are S (M, L, XL/2XL, 3XL) 

To fit bust size: 30 (36, 42, 48, 54)”

Finished bust size: 33 (39, 45, 51, 57)”

Pattern is designed with 3” of positive ease. To choose your size: the “to fit” measurement is just a guide. To better determine your size, look at the finished bust size (this is the exact finished measurement if you get gauge) and decide how much positive ease you want. Extra positive ease won’t hurt, as this is designed to be a loose fitting top. 

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 30”, wearing a size Small. 

OTHER SUMMER GARMENT PATTERNS

1/ Summer Breeze Vest 2/ Lunar Lace Tunic 3/ Midnight Top

Finished Measurements:

Width of the main body of panels: 16.5 (19.5, 22.5, 25.5, 28.5)” 

Overall Length: 25 (25, 27, 31, 33)” 

Length of sleeves: 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12)” 

The overall length and the sleeve length are both easily adjustable; instructions included in the pattern.

Gauge:

16 dc and 8 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

Make a gauge swatch as follows: Fsc 22. Do one row of dc, then work rows 1-8 of Panel instructions. Work one extra dc row (total of 10 rows). For length, take 2 measurements: First, measure rows 2-8; this should equal 4”. Then, measure rows 6-9; this should equal 2”. 

Notes:

  1. This top is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides, sleeves and shoulders.  
  2. Ch 4 at beginning of rows counts as a tr. 
  3. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc. 
  4. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc. 
  5. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M, L, XL/2XL, and 3XL in parentheses. 

Instructions:

Watch the video in this post for a tutorial on different parts of the pattern that can be tricky! This is meant to accompany the written pattern.

PANELS (Make 2)

Fsc 66 (78, 90, 102, 114) If you are unfamiliar with the fsc technique, check out the video below:

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each fsc across. Turn.

Row 2-5: Ch 3, dc in each dc across. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in ea dc across.Turn.

Row 7: Ch 4, tr in next sc. *Sk 3 sts, 4 tr in next st. Rep from * until 5 sts left. Sk next 3 sts, tr in last 2 sts. Turn. 

Note about row 8: the main goal of this row is to end up with the same amount of sts as you had before the shell row. For this reason, we will be doing some sc’s in between stitches. Don’t be alarmed by this, it is okay. 

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first 2 tr. Sc in between next 2 tr. Sc across to somewhere around the middle of row. Sc in between 2 more tr. Keep doing sc across until 3 tr are left. Sc in next tr, sc in between next tr. Sc in last 2 tr. Turn. Make sure to count sts here! 

Row 9-13: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn. 

Rep rows 6-13 a total of 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times more. Then, for all sizes except 3XL, repeat rows 6-10 again. For size 3XL, only repeat rows 6-8. Fasten off.

Adjustment Tip: This is one place you can adjust the length of your top! Don’t feel stuck to the repeat numbers above. After you finish the last repeat of rows 6-10, hold the top up to about the middle of your bust. This is about where it will hang on you. If you want to adjust, simply keep repeating rows 6-13. It is best to then end on a row 10. However, you can potentially end on any dc row. 

BEGIN SLEEVES

We will now make the panels wider by adding fsc to each side. 

Row 1: Fsc 40 (40, 44, 44, 48). With wrong side of panel facing you, join these fsc to the main body by doing dc’s all across main body (do not turn your fsc row). After doing final dc of the main body, fsc 40 (40, 44, 44, 52)  for the other sleeve (see tutorial below!) Turn.

Remember, for a picture tutorial to help with this part, either view the video above, or purchase the PDF here.

Adjustment tip: You can make your sleeves longer or shorter here! The fsc on either side of the body simply needs to be a multiple of 4. Feel free to add or subtract to make your sleeves the perfect length! 

Row 2-3: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn. 

As you can see below, you’ve now made your panel much wider to account for the sleeves. 

Row 4-6: Repeat rows 6-8 of main body. 

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. 

Rep rows 4-7 a total of 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) times, or until top is desired length & sleeves are desired width. 

Last row: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Fasten off. 

ASSEMBLY

Lay both panels out, with right sides together. Sew side seams and underarm seams. Sew along the top—from the edge of sleeves to neckline. Leave an opening as big as you would like. (The bigger the neck opening you leave, the more off-the-shoulder the top will be). I recommend doing this seam last so you can try on the top and see how big you’d like it. 

Finishing: Join yarn at back of neck opening. Sc all around neck opening. Join with sl st to beg sc, and fasten off. 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: [email protected]

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

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—Rachel 🙂

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