Exploration Beach Bag – Free Crochet Pattern
The Exploration Beach Bag is perfect for adventures when you need a sturdy bag! Made from thick yarn and a tight stitch, this bag is great to have on hand for lunches, snacks, and other essentials. Take it on a chill trip to the beach, or a more adventurous exploration trip!
Scroll down for the free pattern, or purchase an inexpensive printable PDF of this pattern here.
Recently I decided I needed a new beach bag for my husband and I’s adventures. But not just any beach bag. There were a few boxes it needed to check:
- sturdy, not too stretchy or flexible
- not holey or lacey
- quick to make, but practical
- able to carry lots of things without a lining
The Exploration Beach Bag came out exactly as I was hoping! I was able to use a very sturdy yarn (Wool Ease Thick & Quick) paired with a thick stitch (the Waistcoat Stitch).
Plus, I designed a strap that is super strong! This crocheted bag has no lining, yet it can hold a variety of practical beach items no problem. I hope you love the pattern!
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Video Tutorial:
Materials:
- Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 106 yds / 96 m, 6 oz / 170 g) 2 skeins Oatmeal
- If you sub another bulky weight yarn, make sure it is very sturdy like this one
- M/9mm crochet hook (or adjust based on your tension)
- Yarn needle
Gauge and Tension:
7 sc in the waistcoat stitch in the round = 4”
While I’ve provided a gauge, I concede that making a round gauge swatch is a pain. If you’d rather avoid this, but still would like your bag to turn out the same size as mine, follow these guidelines: Complete rounds 1-5 and lay the work flat. The measurements should be 13.5” in width at the top and 11” in width at the bottom. If it is way off, you may want to change the size hook you are using.
Note that it is important to use a large hook for this bag since the waistcoat stitch works in the middle of stitches. If you tend to be a very tight crocheter, you may want to size up.
For height, simply add or subtract rounds to get your desired size (no gauge needed).
Notes:
- Bag is worked in joined rounds. Do not turn at the end of rounds.
- Ch at beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
- The body of this bag is worked in the waistcoat stitch. You will work in the MIDDLE of stitches rather than the top “v”. If you are unfamiliar with this technique or if you get stuck at any point in this pattern, please watch my step-by-step video tutorial.
- Work in the middle of sts unless the pattern specifies to insert your hook somewhere else.
Measurements/Sizing:
Width at bottom of bag: 11”
Width at widest part of bag: 13.5”
Height without straps: 13”
Abbreviations/Stitches Used (U.S.)
Chain – ch
Slip stitch – sl st
Single crochet – sc
Stitch(es) – st(s)
Single crochet increase – inc
Round – rnd
RS – right side
Sturdy Crochet Beach Bag Instructions
Purchase & Print this Crochet Pattern Right Here!
Ch 40. Being careful not to twist the ch, sl st in the first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each ch around. (40 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in the middle of same st as sl st (again, see this video if you need help with this technique). Sc in the middle of next 8 sts. 2 sc in middle of next st. (Sc in the middle of next 9 sts, 2 sc in middle of next st) 3 times. Sl st to top of first st. (44 sc)
Continue to work in the waistcoat stitch (working in the middle of stitches, not the top) for the remainder of the bag unless otherwise specified.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st and next 3 sts. 2 sc in next st. (Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times. Sc in last 6 sts, join with sl st to top of first st. (48 sc)
Rnds 4-31: Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st, sc in each st around. Join with sl st to top of first st. (48 sc)
STRAP NOTES
For the strap, we will not be working in the waistcoat stitch. The whole strap is worked in regular sc, but in the top of the row BELOW the current one. Working below the current row will reinforce the strap and make it super strong and less stretchy. It will also give off woven look similar to the waistcoat stitch, but remember – work in the TOPS of the stitches, but from previous rows.
FIRST STRAP
Row 1: Sl st in next 5 sts. (There should be 6 sts on the side of the bag from the “center” st on the side of bag when laying flat). (Sc in the TOP of next st from the row below) 3 times. Turn. (3 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, (sc in TOP of next st from the row below) 3 times. Turn. (3 sc)
Rows 3-41: Repeat row 2. (To adjust the length of straps, do so here. Just make sure to end on an ODD numbered row.) (3 sc)
Connecting row: Rather than sew the strap down, which would be less sturdy, we are going to use some strong stitches to connect the strap to the bag.
From the far left stitch at the base of the strap, skip 6 sts. Hold strap down so that the wrong side of the current row is facing. Insert hook into the top of the st from the row below on the strap; then insert in the bag, at the base of the 7th stitch. Sc at the base of the next 2 sts working through both strap and bag to attach, turn.
When this join is done correctly, the seam will be on the inside of the bag. See this video for help.
SECOND STRAP:
Row 1: Turn the bag over. Once again you will start with the right side of the strap and then join it to the left side. Lay the bag out flat and line up the stitches on the current side with those of the strap on the other side. Join by making a sc in the TOP of the stitch from the row below. Sc in the top of the next 2 sts from the row below so you have your 3 sts for the strap established. Turn.
Rows 2-41: Repeat row 2 from the other strap.
Connecting row: Join strap to the other side of the bag in the same way as previous strap, leaving 6 sts in between. Fasten off and weave in ends.
FINISHING:
Turn the bag inside out so that the wrong side is facing outward. At the bottom corner of the bag, join yarn with a slip stitch. Working through both layers of the bag, slip stitch across all the stitches to join the bag together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Happy Crocheting!