Out of all the crochet patterns I’ve ever designed, this might be my favorite…meet the Parisian dress, a free crochet pattern for women! I am SO excited to share this pattern! Keep reading to find out my inspiration, design features, and of course, the free dress pattern!
I’ve been wanting to design a dress for a long time. To be honest though, it’s intimidating! There’s a lot more logistics that go into a dress—more shaping, complex sizing, etc. BUT, one day I decided to just go for it, and now I’m so glad I did! The Parisian Dress turned out way better than I ever imagined it would.
So, let’s talk about inspiration first. When I was picturing this dress, I really wanted something stylish, with a touch of elegance, but also summery and fun. My vision was an all single-crochet, form fitting bodice, plus a knee-length, lacy skirt. It was so awesome to see my vision come to life!
The stitch I used for the skirt is called the Eiffel Tower Stitch—and yes, it looks like Eiffel Towers if you look at the dc’s in the stitch! Thus, the name “Parisian Dress.” 😉
If you would like an ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, it can be found on either Etsy or Ravelry! This version is formatted to be extremely easy to follow, and it includes the row charts for the v-neck in separate PDFs (super easy to print!)
Another great thing about this dress is that there are lots of ways you can adjust it to fit you perfectly! Throughout the pattern, look out for the heading “Adjustment tip” for tips on how to adjust. You can adjust the v-neck, the length of the skirt, and more!
The Parisian Dress
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- To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE
- Premier Yarns Everyday Baby Yarn
- Or approximately 1200-2500 yards DK weight yarn, depending on size
- H/8 (5mm) hook (or size to obtain gauge)
- J (6mm) hook (or two sizes bigger than hook you obtained gauge with)
- Yarn needles
Chain – ch
Slip Stitch – sl st
Single crochet – sc
Double crochet – dc
Repeat – rep
Round – rnd
Skip – sk
Stitch(es) – st(s)
Space – sp
RS – right side
V-stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated stitch.
Sizes shown are XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)
To fit bust size: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50)”
Pattern is designed to fit true to size. Choose a size that is as close to your bust size as possible. The bodice is designed to be close-fitting, so you’ll want either a size that is the same as your bust, or one with a little bit of negative ease. If you choose a size larger than your bust, just know it will be more loose-fitting than mine is.
NOTE: Especially for larger sizes, be sure to also look at the waist measurement below when choosing your size. Because of the form-fitting nature of this top, those with larger busts may want to size up.
For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 30”, wearing a size XS.
Width of the widest part of the bodice (bust): 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50)”
Waist: 24 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42)”
Length of Bodice: 16.4 (17, 17.2, 17.4, 17.8, 18)”
Armhole: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)”
Length of skirt: easily adjustable!
16 sc and 20 rows in sc = 4”
- The bodice of the dress is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides and shoulders. The sleeves and skirt are joined on after assembly and worked in joined rounds.
- Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc.
- Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc.
- Pattern is written in size XS, with sizes S, M, L, XL, and 2XL in parentheses.
- There are a few times the sizes will be split up. At these times, the parentheses will be different than shown above.
BODICE PANELS (Make 2)
Row 1 (RS): Fsc 48 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84).
Note: For this section of the pattern, XS will be separate, and other sizes will be shown as S (M L XL, 2XL).
SIZE XS ONLY:
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea fsc across. (48 sc)
Rows 3-9: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across. (48 sc).
Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. (50 sc)
Rows 11-15: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across. (50 sc).
Rows 16-52: Rep rows 10-15 a total of 5 times more. (60 sc at the end of row 52)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea fsc across, turn. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84) sc
Rows 3-9: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across, turn. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84) sc
Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. 54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sc
Rows 11-14: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across, turn. 54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sc
Row 15: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. 56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sc
Rows 16-45: Rep rows 11-15 a total of 6 times more, turn. 68 (76, 84, 92, 100) sc at the end of row 45.
Continue doing rows of even sc for the number of rows as follows:
|S: Work to Row 55||M: Work to row 56||L: Work to row 57||XL: Work to row 59||2X: Work to row 60|
Adjustment Tip: Here is where you can adjust the length of your bodice! Simply add or subtract rows of even sc until it is the length you want. Be aware that the v-neck will add about 6” MORE length. The goal is to get the overall bodice to reach from your shoulders to around your belly button. However, if you want a higher or lower waisted dress, you could also adjust that here as well.
When you finish your specified amount of rows, do not fasten off. Instead, turn and continue to v-neck.
All Sizes (back to regular parenthesis – XS-2X):
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49) sc, turn.
Row 2-30: Follow chart below labeled “V-Neck Side 1” (you’ll see it right after the notes)
The reason for the chart: From here on out each size uses a different pattern of decreases. To write this out for each size would be lengthy and hard to follow. For this reason, I have opted for a chart that will show you each individual size. There is one for the first side of the v-neck, and one for the second side.
How to Use the Chart:
1: First, find your size. This is at the top of each column. On the far left is the Row Number. Every size has 30 rows.
2: To know which row to work, follow the column with the heading “Pattern.” There are 3 different types of rows you will do: Decrease (dec) row 1, dec row 2, and normal. Each time you see one of these in the chart, work them as follows:
Dec Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first sc. Sc2tog. Sc in remaining sc across, turn.
Dec Row 2: Ch 1, sc in all sc across until 3 left. Sc2tog, sc in last sc, turn.
Normal Row: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Note: The only difference between dec row 1 and dec row 2 is that the decrease (“dec”) is done at the end vs. the beginning of the row. Also, to the right of your size, there is a column that will show you the stitch count for the corresponding row.
ONE LAST NOTE: These v-neck instructions are by no means what you HAVE to follow. You can most definitely adjust the length/depth of your v-neck! Just know that the width of the shoulders will change as well.
OTHER SIDE OF V-NECK
Go back to last row of main body. With WS of work facing, Sk 2 sc and join yarn with a sc in next sc. Row 1: Continue to sc across the rest of the back panel. Turn.
Row 2-30: Follow the chart below: “V-Neck Side 2”. Follow the chart in the exact same way as the first side. Note: the only difference between the two sides is that you will decrease at the opposite end of the rows. The pattern of decreases is the same, but opposite dec rows are used.
Lay out panels with right sides together. Sew Shoulder seams and side seams (see dotted lines on image below) leaving a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)” arm opening.
Rnd 1: Join yarn with a sl st at the base of armhole. Work 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sc evenly around the armhole. Join with sl st to beg sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc) dc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. *Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. Rep from * till one sc left. Sk last sc, sl st to beg dc.
Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc. Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3) Sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *Sk next dc, dc in next dc. Ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 1 st left. Sk last st, sl st to beg ch 3.
Rnd 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. *Ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last dc, and sl st to 3rd chain of beg ch-5.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for both sleeves!
With larger hook, join yarn with a sl st at the side of the skirt (near one of the side seams of the bodice). This will help the joins be less conspicuous.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, v-stitch in next fsc. *Dc in next fsc, v-stitch in next fsc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. Note: to ensure this row is strong to support the weight of the skirt, work over the entire first fsc row (not just the flimsy chain at the bottom of the fsc).
Rnd 2: Sl st in next dc. Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3) sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *Sk next dc, dc in next dc. Ch 3, Sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 1 st left. Sk last st, sl st to beg ch 3.
Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) *Ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last dc and sl st to 3rd chain of beg ch-5.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st. *2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last sc and sl st to first sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc) dc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. *Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. Rep from * till one sc left. Sk last sc, sl st to beg dc.
Repeat Rnds 2-5 until skirt reaches your desired length! I did a total of 33 rows for the XS.
Finishing: Join yarn at back of neck opening. Sc evenly around neck opening. Join with sl st to beg sc. If desired, do one more even round of sc around. Fasten off and weave in ends!
If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
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