The Peacock cowl features an easy stitch pattern that is easily memorized. (Whether you’re memorizing crochet or memorizing piano chords, always take your time! The fact that this project has few row repeat really helps).

It is also a 1-skein project, which is always the best, isn’t it?!

The yarn I used for my cowl is Mary Maxim Prism. To get the same effect as mine, I highly recommend using this yarn! However, if you’d like a good substitute, I also recommend Lion Brand Mandala or Lion Brand Cupcake.

Both of these are also multicolored and DK weight, the same as Prism yarn!

As always, you can grab the inexpensive, ad-free version of this pattern on Etsy HERE.

A big thanks ahead of time to all who purchase! You put a huge smile on my face!

Peacock Cowl

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• To buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF, click HERE
• To Pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Notes:

1. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc
2. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as sc
3. Cowl is easily adjustable. The stitch pattern is a multiple of 6+1, so width can be adjusted by adding or subtracting in this number to the fsc row. Length can be adjusted by repeating more rows (more info in pattern).

Materials:

• Approximately 275 yards of DK weight yarn (#3 light)
• Sample yarn: Mary Maxim prism yarn, 1 cake
• G (4.25mm) Hook
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Fsc – foundation single crochet

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Instructions:

Fsc 43 (or a multiple of 6+1 to adjust length).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next fsc. Sk 1 fsc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, dc in next fsc. Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 fsc left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk 2 dc, dc in next ch-2 sp. *Sk 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc. Sk 2 dc, dc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 4 dc left. Sk next 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc. *Sk 2 dc, dc in next ch-2 sp. Sk 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next dc. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 48 rows, OR until cowl reaches desired length!  

Last row: Ch 1, sc in first 2 dc. Sc in between next 2 dc. Sc in next 3 dc. Sc in next ch-2 sp. *Sc in next 5 dc, sc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * until 5 dc are left. Sc in next 3 dc. Sc in between next 2 dc. Sc in last 2 dc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing..

Finishing:

Fold your finished rectangle in half and sew the 2 ends together. Note that the fabric is reversible, so it doesn’t matter which sides you put together when sewing.

Weave in ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below! 

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Peacock Cowl—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

If you guys have been following me on Instagram for any amount of time, you’ve probably seen the progression of this scarf. Over a year ago, I designed it and put the pattern up in my Etsy shop. However, at this point in time, I hadn’t started my Blog yet.

As I was thinking about Fall patterns for this season, I realized I could make the Winter Blossom a free pattern for you guys!

An Easy Crochet Lace Scarf

This scarf is extremely easy to make, trust me. If there’s one thing I love, it’s easy crochet lace patterns!

This lace scarf is made from one very long rectangle that is sewn into a loop. And the stitches used are simply chains, single-crochet, and double crochet! If you’re a new crocheter, don’t worry—you can make this!

Want to Download and Print this Pattern?

If you’re interested in the PDF version of this pattern, it can be found here. Just so you know, the PDF includes an easy to reference stitch chart—perfect for visual learners. A huge thank you to anyone who decides to make the purchase!

As always, however, you can just keep scrolling to view the free version.

Winter Blossom Scarf

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards for later, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE
• To buy the Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE (this includes an easy-to-follow stitch chart!)

Notes:

1. The length and width are both adjustable. The stitch pattern is a multiple of 3 sts, and has only two repeating rows.

1. Scarf is worked widthwise, going back and forth in rows, turning at the end of each row.
2. When turning, ch 3 always counts as first dc.

Materials:

• 100 grams of fingering weight yarn
• Sample yarn: 2 skeins of Deborah Norville Serenity Sock Weight (230 yds, 50 grams)

• 4.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle

Finished measurements:

Width 12”

Length 58” (Both are easily adjustable)

Instructions:

Fsc 33, turn (for an easy tutorial of fsc, click here)

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc, here and throughout) dc in next sc. *ch 3, sk 2 sc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next sc. Repeat from * until 4 sts left. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, dc in last two sc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(4 dc in next ch 3 loop), ch 1. Repeat from * until only the two ending dc are left. Dc in last two dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *Ch 3, (sc, ch 3, sc) in the middle of next 4dc cluster. (work between the 2 middle dc—see appendix for tutorial.) Repeat from * across all 4dc clusters. End with ch 3, dc in last two dc. Turn.

Repeat rows 2-3 for a total of 118 rows, ending with a row 2. When measuring the scarf for length, don’t forget to consider how much your chosen yarn will stretch when blocking. Feel free to add or subtract rows to get the length you want. Just be sure to end on a row 2.

Last row: ch 1 (does not count as as first st) sc in first st. 2 sc in next st. *sc in first dc of 4dc cluster. Sc in the middle of cluster (in between sts). Sc in 4th dc of 4dc cluster. Repeat from * across all 4dc clusters. Finish with 2 sc in the second to last dc, sc in last dc. (33 sc—now ending row has the same number of sts as beg row.)

Finishing: With right sides facing, whipstitch the ends of the scarf together, forming a long loop. Weave in ends and block.

If you would like a easy-to-read chart of the stitch pattern, remember you can find it in the inexpensive PDF pattern here!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern; I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me, rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

The post Winter Blossom Scarf—Free & Easy Scarf Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Disclosure. This post may contain affiliate links.

One thing I love about these baskets is how quickly they work up. I finished one in an afternoon! They are also easy to make while watching Netflix.

Moonbeam Basket Yarn

I used super bulky yarn for this pattern (in the number 6 category). The specific yarn I used is Cascade Lana Grande. However, any super bulky yarn would work!

Ready to jump in on this quick project?

Moonbeam Baskets

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, click HERE

Materials:

• Cascade Yarns Lana Grande, 1 ball per basket. Or approximately 90 yards super bulky weight yarn per basket.

• K (6.5mm) Hook

Finished Measurements:

Diameter across bottom: 6.5”

Height: 5”

Notes:

1. The first part of the basket is worked in continuous rounds of single crochet. Then the work is joined and continued in textured stitches.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Instructions:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc) Place marker in last st and move up at the end of each rnd.

(want this pattern without ads? Click here for the PDF version. Your purchase helps support my small business!)

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: (Sc in next st 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (48 sc)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc. (48 sc)

Rnd 10: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in next st. *Sk 1 st, sc in next st. Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Rnd 11: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc), 3 hdc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 st, sc in next st. *Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in sc. Sk 1 st, sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. Sl st in next hdc.

Rnds 12-15: Rep rnds 10-11.

Rnd 16: Rep rnd 10 once more.

Rnd 17: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in ea st around (48 sc)

Rnd 18: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in next  3 sc. Ch 12, sk next 9 sc, sc in next sc. Sc in the remaining 35 sc. Join with sl st to first sc.  

Rnd 19: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in next 3 sc. Sc in next 12 ch (handle made). Sc in remaining 35 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all my other FREE patterns, click HERE. If you want to get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up below!

Happy crocheting!

The post Moonbeam Baskets—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Some people love big purses, but I happen to be a tiny-purse kind of gal. My stuff gets lost easily enough in a small purse—I don’t know how I would ever manage with a bigger one!

While we were on our big tour of the East Coast this summer, I knew I wanted to something small and light for my wallet and a few other necessities—so I designed this purse! (Literally, I made most of it on the plane)

I used it throughout our three-week trip, and it held up really well!

The Yarn

The yarn I used for this purse is Lion Brand Flikka. This yarn was so much fun to work with. I loved how the colors made a neat pattern as I worked.

It is a worsted weight cotton, so it has a good amount of durability. My handbag held up well even after 3 weeks of heavy use!

Get Lion Brand Flikka for yourself HERE.

Now for the pattern!

Woodland Tote

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards HERE
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE
• Buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern on Etsy HERE

  MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Flikka Yarn
• G Hook (or a size that gives you a tight tension. You don’t want the bag to be super loose)
• Yarn needle

NOTES:

1. Bag is made from the bottom up and is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds unless otherwise specified.

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch — sl st

Single Crochet — sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round — rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

MEASUREMENTS:

When laid out flat, from base to top edge: approximately 8″

Width at widest point: 6 1/2″

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc) Place marker in last stitch, and move up at the end of each round.

Rnd 3: *Sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: *Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around (48 sc)

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (54 sc)

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (60 sc)

Rnds 11-34: sc in each sc around. (60 sc). At the end of rnd 34, JOIN with a sl st to first sc in that rnd.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in next st. Ch 1. *Sk next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Ch 1. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 36: Ch 1 (counts as sc) sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. (60 sc). Join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

Rnd 37: Ch 1, work the crab stitch (backward single crochet) around. For a tutorial on the crab stitch, click here. Do not fasten off.

Strap

Ch 130 (or ch to desired strap length). I made my chain slightly shorter than I wanted the strap to be, since it did stretch a couple inches after use.

Being careful not to twist ch, sl st to the opposite side of the bag. Turn.

Last row: Sl st across all ch. Do one last sl st to the edge of the bag to secure. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If desired, weave an extra piece of yarn through the open holes in the double-crochet round as a drawstring.

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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Woodland Tote—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

And while we will probably never be able to create the exact same look and texture in crocheting, we CAN come close. Let me show you how to crochet the woven stitch—a stitch that looks very much like knitting!

Disclosure: this post may contain affiliate links. 

How to Crochet the Woven Stitch

Let me start off and tell you that this stitch is super close to a regular single-crochet. Don’t be scared off—it’s really easy. The ONLY difference is where you put your hook. Seriously. A simple change of where you start creates a whole different look in the fabric. Cool, right?

So let’s get started!

• Pin this tutorial to your Pinterest boards HERE
• Ask a question about this tutorial HERE
• To view ALL my tutorials, click HERE
• To buy the same yarn I am using, click HERE

Step 1:

The woven stitch will always start out with a regular row of single crochet. To practice this stitch, begin with a chain of any amount (probably around 10-20 stitches would be good). Then skip the first chain and single-crochet across the rest of the chain. Make sure you do not crochet this row too tightly, or the woven stitch will be more difficult. 

Step 2:

Now ch 1 and turn your work like you’re starting a new row (the ch does not count as a st.) Make another regular sc in the first stitch of the new row.

(Basically, you will have a regular sc on each end of your row, but the for the other stitches you will insert your hook a different way. See next step!)

Like this tutorial so far? Sign up for my email list to be the first to see new tutorials, FREE patterns, and more!

Step 3: How To Insert Your Hook

Okay, so now you’re ready to create your first “woven” stitch!

Here’s how it works: normally you would insert your hook into the top two loops of a stitch. However, with the woven stitch, you will insert your hook into the middle of the stitch.

If you look at a regular sc from the wrong side, there are 3 main parts of the stitch OTHER than the ones you would normally insert your hook into. There is the one horizontal bar, right underneath the top loops. And then there are the 2 vertical bars. It is in between those 2 vertical bars that you want to insert your hook

The picture below shows some little white arrows pointing to this exact place!

Here is a picture showing what the hook looks like when inserted:

Now, simply complete a regular single-crochet! Yarn over and pull through the stitch.

By the way—the yarn I’m using here is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta. This yarn is truly soft and wonderful to work with! Get some for yourself HERE. 

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

Then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on hook.

Repeat Step 3 all across your row, until you get to the last stitch.

For the last stitch, work another regular sc in the top loops. The two normal sc keep the edges neat.

One Last Tip:

Remember how I said at the very beginning to make sure your first row of sc isn’t too tight? Well, tension is definitely something important for this stitch, because if you crochet too tightly, it will be impossible to make your hook fit through those two vertical bars. This applies for all rows. If you’re having trouble inserting your hook, try making the first loop you pull up a bit looser. This will make the two vertical bars looser, thus allowing for smoother entry of the hook.

That’s really all there is to it! When you crochet the woven stitch over many rows, it creates an effect very similar to knitting. Personally, I like using it way better than regular single-crochet.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! To view all of my tutorials, click HERE.

The post How to Crochet the Woven Stitch (Looks Like Knitting!) appeared first on .

Believe it or not, I did not make this entire shawl. The first white “granny” section was made by my Great Grandmother! My Great-Grandma Helen used to crochet granny triangles to go on the backs of her chairs. She started the first part of this shawl as a chair-backer, but never finished it.

So yes, I named this shawl “Helena” since it is a nickname of of the name Helen. It sounded the most natural out of all the Helen nicknames I could find!

After Grandma Helen died, my mom took the unfinished triangle and kept it. However, she wanted it to be complete. At the time, I was little, so I obviously didn’t know how to crochet. My mom gave it to my Aunt, who added a couple more white rows.  As I got older, it just got tucked away, unused.

Then, a couple months ago, I had a brilliant idea. What if I turned it into a shawl?! I could picture it in my head—a classic granny stitch, with some alternating rows of more modern lace. Plus, I could work it up really fast since half of the shawl was already made!

There’s nothing like the feeling you get when you see a design finished, and it looks exactly like you pictured it. It did end up taking longer than I expected, since I had to tear out the lace more than once trying to figure out the math—but the result was worth it, don’t you think?

I used Red Heart Super Saver for this pattern. I love this yarn because it is inexpensive, but not low quality. It is machine washable and dryable, so great for easy care. Plus, after it comes out of the dryer, it gets even softer than it starts out!

Helena Shawl Pattern – A Crochet Granny Shawl Pattern

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards for later, click here
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click here
• To buy the Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click here

Notes: 

1. Shawl is one large triangular piece. Each row will have a center increase.

1. Turn at the end of each row, unless otherwise specified.

1. When turning, ch 3 counts as a dc.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn, approximately 350 yards total

• Sample yarn: Red Heart Super Saver (here are other purple yarns that could look pretty in the lace section! Just make sure you choose one that is worsted weight.)

• J/8 crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

• Yarn needle to weave in ends

• Steam blocking materials (for instructions, click here)

Finished measurements:

20” up middle shells, 33” between the top tips (see pictures under the finishing section for more details)

Gauge:

(note that gauge is not critical for this pattern)

First 4 rows of pattern = see schematic below: (not to scale, just for measurements)

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 4, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook. Ch 1, 3 dc in same ch (4th ch from hook). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), 2 dc in 1st st. Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch 1. Ch 1, Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in last st.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st. Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-sp. Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next middle ch-sp (middle shell made). Ch 1, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp. Ch 1, sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 4-17: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-sp) until middle shell. Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch-sp of middle shell. (Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-sp) across all ch-spaces. Sk 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in last dc.

(At the end of row 17: 32 3dc shells, plus middle shell). Do NOT turn.

The next rows (the lace, see picture) will all be worked with the RS of the shawl facing. In order to accomplish this, you will fasten off on the left edge of the shawl, and then join a new color on the right edge and continue with next row.

Row 18: with right side facing, join new color with a sc in first st on right edge of shawl. Sc in every dc and every ch-sp across entire row. (135 sc). Do not turn.

Row 19: With right side facing, join new color with a sc in first st on right edge of shawl. (Ch 7, sk 4 sc, sc in next sc) 13 times. Ch 1, sk 1 sc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc. Ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st. (Ch 7, sk 4 sc, sc in next sc) 13 times.  (26 ch-7 spaces, plus 1 middle shell). Do not turn.

Row 20: With right side facing, join new color with a sl st in first st on right edge of shawl. Ch 5 (counts as a dc, ch 2), sc in next ch-sp. Ch 2, *4 dc in next sc. Ch 2, sc in next ch-7 sp, ch 2. Rep from * across whole row. When you get to the middle st, it will be exactly the same—you’re just working into the ch-2 sp instead of ch-7 sp. Dc in last sc. Do not turn.

Row 21: With right side facing, join new color with a sc in first st on right edge of shawl. (Ch 7, sc in the middle of next 4 dc shell) 13 times. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc. Ch 3, sc in the middle of next 4 dc shell. (Ch 7, sc in middle sp of next 4 dc shell) 13 times. Fasten Off. Do not turn.

Row 22: With right side facing, join new color with a sc in first st on right edge of shawl. Sc again in same sc. (Sk next ch, sc in next 5 ch. Sk next ch, sc in next sc) 13 times. Sk next ch, sc in next 2 ch. Sc in next dc. 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next dc and next 2 ch. Sk next ch, sc in next sc. (Sk next ch, sc in next 5 ch. Sk next ch, sc in next sc) 13 times. Sc in last sc once more. (169 sc). Fasten Off. Do not turn.

Row 23: With right side facing, join new color with a sl st in first st on right edge of shawl. Ch 3, 2 dc in first st. (Ch 1, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc) 27 times. Sk 2 sc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next sc (middle shell made). (Ch 1, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc) 28 times (56 3 dc shells, plus middle shell). TURN.

Row 24: Rep row 17 (this is just a regular granny row).

Row 25: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1) sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-sp. (Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-sp) across to middle shell. Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ch-sp of middle shell. (Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-sp) across all ch-spaces. Ch 1, sk 2 dc, dc in last dc. DO NOT TURN.

Row 26: With RS facing, join new color with a sc in first st on right edge of shawl. Sc in every dc and every ch-1 space across. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Block to finished measurements. If you used acrylic yarn like I did, use a method called steam blocking. To learn how to steam block, click here.

When Blocking, you will want to take 2 measurements of the shawl

1. Measure up the middle shells, from the point to the edge. (20”).

1. Measure the length from each top tip (33”).

Once you do your blocking, throw your Helena shawl over your shoulders—you’re all done!

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post Helena Shawl—Free Granny Shawl Crochet Pattern appeared first on .