Some of you may remember that I released a pattern last winter called the Alicia Ear warmer…well, I am happy to say that this is now the CHILD’s version of that same pattern! You can now make matching ear warmers for you and your kids—and I promise, these will be amazing to keep you in style and warm at the same time. My little sissy loves her ear warmer…

And here we are wearing them together! This was such a fun photo shoot to do together.

If you want to go straight to the adult pattern, be sure to click HERE. The main difference is that it is wider. Besides that, it does use the same stitch pattern!

All right, let’s get started on the pattern!

The Allie Ear warmer

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the PDF version of this pattern on Etsy, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

NOTES:

1. Ch 3 at beginning of rows always counts as a stitch
2. Stitch Pattern is a multiple of 5+3. You can adjust the width of your ear warmer by increasing or decreasing stitches.

MATERIALS:

• Less than 1 skein of Mary Maxim Woodlands yarn (or other worsted weight yarn)
• H/8 (5mm) crochet hook
• Yarn needle

Here are some other purple yarns that could work for this project!

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Wintergreen Cowl 2/ Lattice Stitch 3/ Angelica Cardigan

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Foundation single crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half double crochet – hdc

Double crochet – dc

Back post double crochet – bpdc

Front post triple crochet – fptr

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

INSTRUCTIONS:

Fsc 13 (or a multiple of 5+3 to adjust width).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. *Sk next dc, fptr around next dc. Working in front of st just made, fptr over skipped st. (See appendix for tutorial). Dc in next 3 dc. Rep from * across row. Turn.

NOTE: if you are unfamiliar with post stitches, you can view the tutorial that will help you learn this stitch pattern. Just click HERE!

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Bpdc over next 2 fptr. *Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. Sk next dc, bpdc over next 2 fptr. Rep from * until 3 dc left. Dc in last 3 dc. Turn. 

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. *Sk next fpdc, fptr in next fpdc. Working in front of st just made, fptr in skipped st. Dc in next 3 dc. Rep from * across row. Turn. 

Rep rows 3-4 until ear warmer reaches desired length. Try it around your head and make sure you get a snug fit! 

Last row: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc across row. Fasten off. 

FINISHING

1. With right sides together, sew ends together using your desired sewing method. I used a slip stitch seam. 

2. To make the gathered part:

Take a long piece of yarn and begin by inserting it through the 3 cables as shown below. 

Note: my yarn is shown in a contrasting color so you can see it better. However, the color I actually used was the same!

Next, take one end of the yarn and stick it back through the opposite side of the cables. Then pull both ends tight. 

Finally, stick the 2 ends through the opposite side of the ear warmer, so that they’re coming out the back. Pull tight once again and knot. 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Allie Ear warmer—Free Crochet Kid’s Pattern appeared first on .

Unfortunately, the sweater section of this pattern is no longer available. However, you can still make a color work mandala! There are two blog posts which will show you how to do this:

Mandala Colorwork Part 1

Mandala Colorwork Part 2

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get more free patterns & tutorials straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Mandala Pullover Sleeves and Assembly appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can read my introduction to this series HERE. Or view the first three patterns in the series HERE.)

Believe it or not, we almost didn’t come to Niagara Falls. At first, it was decided it was too far away from our other stops in New York City, Washington D.C., and Pennsylvania.

Want to see lots more patterns like this? My email list subscribers are the first to see new patterns!

However, it seemed too amazing of a sight to miss when we were so close (an 11 hour drive!)

It took some major changes of plans, and the loss of some money due to cancellations…but here we are! And it has been SO worth it! See one of my favorite views below:

Unfortunately you can’t get good views without a fence, unless you’re getting wet! We did do the Maid of the Mist boat tour, which was spectacular! We got right up close to the falls. However, we were wearing giant rain ponchos to keep from getting soaked, so definitely no pictures there.

The Yarn

So, the yarn I used for this cardigan is Creative Ewe Bamboodles. This is a bouncy, drapey summer yarn from Creative Ewe.

I loved working with this yarn. It’s extremely soft, and it has a certain sheen to it I’ve never seen before with plant-based fibers. It’s a bamboo-cotton mix, making it perfect for summer.

I used the colorway Blueberry, but there are tons of beautiful colors to choose from!

Get Bamboodles for yourself HERE!

Other Patterns in the Travel Series:

1. New York Sign / 2. Liberty Bell / 3. D.C. Roses       

All right, I bet you’re ready for the pattern! And I’m so ready to share it…so here it is!

Niagara Cardigan

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free version of this pattern, click HERE

• Materials:

• Creative Ewe Bamboodles, 4 skeins. Or approximately 800 yards of similar yarn (Bamboodles is a sport weight yarn, but I would say it is one the lighter side. You could also use a heavier fingering weight. Please note, however, that substituting yarn may change the drape and fit of the garment. I highly recommend Bamboodles!)
• G Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Notes:

1. Cardigan is made out of 2 rectangles seamed together on the back and the sides.
2. Beginning Ch 3 always counts as a double crochet.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Sizing:

Small: to fit Bust size 30-33″

This cardigan is only available in a size small. I may put it in larger sizes in the future (if there is interest. If you would like to see it in larger sizes, please let me know! Your feedback is appreciated).

The cardigan is, however, very easy to adjust. Follow instructions below.

To make cardigan bigger:

Width: add to the foundation rows of the panels in multiples of 3.

Length: simply add more rows to each panel.

For reference, model is 5′ 3″ with a bust of 30″.

Measurements:

1 Panel, before blocking: 38″ long, 10″ wide

Panels will stretch at least a couple inches once blocked.

Gauge:

6 shells and 8 rows = 4″

Instructions:

Panel (make 2)

Fsc 48 (or a multiple of 3)

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Rows 3-75: Repeat row 2.For a longer or shorter cardigan, simply add/subtract rows here. However, note that, once blocked, the cardigan will be slightly bigger.

Finishing:

Lay rectangles out next to each other and sew up halfway.

With Right Sides facing, Fold the rectangles in half and sew up the sides, leaving a 7-8″ space for the armholes.

Lastly, weave in ends and block your cardigan. To review the different blocking methods, click here. I used wet blocking for this piece.

That’s all there is to it! Throw your cardigan over your shoulders and go rock it at Niagara Falls!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE.

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Niagara Cardigan—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

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The inspiration for this shawl came kind of spontaneously. I knew I wanted to use up my Stroll Gradient yarn, so I started a shawl. As I crocheted, the design just flowed out! The great thing about this shawl is that it is very easily adjustable. You can make it as small or as big as you want! Plus, it only takes one skein of yarn to make! Keep reading to find out more about the beautiful yarn I used.

The Yarn

Okay, so lets talk about the yarn. Like I said, I used Knit Picks Stroll Gradient. This is an absolutely gorgeous yarn. It is 75% superwash merino wool, which makes it wonderfully soft and squishy. Plus, it comes in a bunch of beautiful colorways! Each ball has three complimenting colors that fade into each each other. I used the color called spacewalk. As you can tell, it is a lovely combination of blues and purples.

Ready to make this shawl for your own wardrobe? Here are the instructions!

Wave Shawl

 By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this Pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE

Notes:

1. Shawl is one large triangular piece. Pattern starts at the tip and is worked outward, with increases along each side edge. 
2. Turn at the end of each row, unless otherwise specified.
3. When turning, ch 3 always counts as first stitch.
4. For a comprehensive list of standard abbreviations, click here

Materials

• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 460 yards total
• Sample yarn: 1 cake of Knit Picks Stroll Gradient
• F/3.75mm hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends
• Wet Blocking materials (click here for blocking instructions).

Finished Measurements:

This shawl is very easily adjustable. Simply keep repeating the established pattern till it reaches desired size. (More instructions farther down.)

Special Stitches:

V-Stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated stitch.

Shell (sh): (5 dc) in indicated stitch

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), 4 dc in first dc. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. Ch 1, v-stitch in between next 2 shells. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch 1 space) twice. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 6-20: Repeat row 5.

Row 21: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Sh in next ch-1 space. V-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 22: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc of same sh. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 23: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 24: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. NOTE on last shell, you will only skip 3 dc instead of 4. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 25:  Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. Ch 2, sk next ch 2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 26-46: Repeat rows 24-25.

To adjust shawl: simply keep repeating row 24-25 until shawl reaches desired length, then work edging below.

Edging, last row: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in space between next two shells) across all shells. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, and block using the wet blocking method. 

That’s all there is to it—you’re done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
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Happy Crocheting!

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

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