How to Crochet the Alpine Stitch – Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

There are times when crochet just wows me (and I never wish that it looked like knitting). I’m excited to teach you how to crochet the Alpine Stitch today, because it is one of my favorites! It’s just one of those crochet stitches that is pretty to look at, and modern.

Not only is the Alpine Stitch pleasing to look at…it also has such a lovely texture. Not like cables where the texture jumps out of the fabric. More like a texture that is just woven into the fabric.

How to Crochet the Alpine Stitch - Free Pattern with Video Tutorial

How do you do an Alpine Stitch?

The Alpine stitch is made from a few simple row repeats that incorporate fpdc, dc, and sc.

Each row, fpdc are worked over the post of regular dc from two rows below, while regular dc are worked in the top of previous fpdc. If this sounds confusing now, don’t worry! This stitch is a breeze once you get the hang of it…

Is the Alpine Stitch Beginner Friendly?

From a distance, the Alpine stitch may seem difficult. Because of its beautiful look, it has the appearance of being an advanced stitch.

And while you do need to know a few techniques (like fpdc), the stitch is actually a lot easier than it looks. If you’re concerned about the level of this stitch, don’t worry! I have both a video tutorial and a photo tutorial that you can follow step by step.

If you like that video, make sure to come subscribe to my YouTube Channel! I release videos every Tuesday and every Friday.


Use the Alpine Stitch to make things like blankets, pillows, dishcloths, or scarves

One of my favorite things about this stitch is how versatile it is! You can easily make alpine stitch blankets, pillows, dishcloths, or scarves simply by changing the width of your starting row. Just follow guidelines on the stitch multiple in the instructions.

If you’re looking for a specific pattern, I also have a men’s scarf pattern that uses the Alpine Stitch!

As you can see below, this scarf pattern will be especially helpful if you want to learn how to change colors in the alpine stitch!

Keep the Alpine Stitch from Curling

Just a warning before you start to crochet the Alpine Stitch: it does have a tendency to curl on the edges. However, this is nothing that a little blocking can’t fix!

Because the alpine stitch is quite thick, I recommend steam blocking anything you make with it. That’ll fix those annoying curled edges!

Along the lines of warnings…another thing you might wonder is whether the alpine stitch is a yarn eater. If you’re curious, check out this post where I compared it to simple stitches to see what used more yarn!

Did you know there are variations of the Alpine Stitch?

That’s right, I found this out very quickly when I searched this stitch on google! There are different versions out there, and the difference lies in the post stitch.

While some tutorials use front-post double crochet, others use front-post triple crochet!

Personally, I like the look of the fpdc better because since the fptr is a TALLER stitch, it ends up leaving larger holes in the fabric. That is what we’ll be learning in this tutorial – but I just wanted you to be aware that you may find other variations out there as well!

Get the Closed Stitch Dictionary

Wanting lots of stitches, without the hassle of ads? have an ad-free stitch dictionary that I think you would love!

It includes 10 closed crochet stitches, along with bonus trainings teaching you how to make them into scarves, pillows, blankets, etc.!

More Stitch Tutorials

Looking for more closed crochet stitches? I have lots of other stitch tutorials available to give you some inspiration. 

Here are a few that might interest you:

Suzette Stitch / Trinity Stitch / Mayberry Stitch / Pansy Stitch

How To Crochet The Alpine Stitch

All right, let’s get to the tutorial!

  • To pin this stitch to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
  • To get the Closed Stitch Pattern Dictionary and get this stitch (plus many others) ad-free, click HERE
  • And to subscribe to my YouTube channel, click HERE


  • The Alpine stitch is worked over an odd number of stitches. You should always start with an odd number of fsc, OR an even number of chains, plus one row of sc.
  • Turning ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch


I always like to start my work with a foundation row instead of chains whenever possible.

The greatest benefit of using a foundation row is that the beginning of your work will be just as stretchy as the rest, rather than having a tight chain.

Watch how easy it is in my Youtube tutorial. Seriously, it will change your crocheting life!

If you watch this and decide it’s not for you, you can still start with a chain. Just make a slip knot and then make an even number of chains to the length you want your piece. Then, do one row of regular single crochet.


This stitch can be worked in just about any size and type of yarn you’d like, with the hook recommended on the label.

I used Lion Brand Heartland (worsted weight) and an H/5mm hook in this tutorial.


Fsc an odd number (if using a chain stitch, chain an even number and work one row of sc). Turn. 

Row 1: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch, here and throughout) dc in first fsc. Dc in each fsc across, turn. 

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc. Sc in each dc across, turn. 

Row 3: Ch 1, dc in first sc. Fpdc around second dc from 2 rows below. Dc in next sc. *Skip one dc from 2 rows below, fpdc around next dc from 2 rows below. Dc in next sc. Rep from * across, turn. 

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each stitch across, turn. 

Row 5: Ch 1, dc in first two sc. *Fpdc around next dc from 2 rows below, dc in next sc. (note that all fpdc from here on out will be worked in regular dc sts from 2 rows below). Rep from * until 1 sc is left. Dc in last sc, turn. 

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each stitch across, turn. 

Row 7: Ch 1, dc in first sc. *Fpdc around next dc from 2 rows below, dc in next sc. Rep from * across, turn. 

Rep rows 4-7 for stitch pattern!


Fsc an odd number. Turn. Ch 1 and dc in each st across.

Ch 1, turn, and sc across for Row 2.

Row 3: Ch 1, dc in first sc.

Begin a front post dc around the second dc from two rows below.

YO, pull up a loop

Finished fpdc shown below:

Dc in next sc from current row. Keep in mind that it will look like you’re skipping a sc because the fpdc you just did was in a different row. Picture below shows the stitch you’ll be going into.

This is what the finished regular dc will look like.

Skip one dc from two rows below, fpdc in next dc from two rows below. Then do a regular dc in next sc.

Continue to alternate between fpdc and dc across the row. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc across row, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, dc in first 2 sc. I like to think of Row 5 as the “alternate” fpdc row. This time we start and end with two dc rather than just one.

Fpdc around next regular dc from two rows below. From now on, with fpdc rows you will always fpdc around regular dc, and do regular dc’s in the top of fpdc.

Dc in next sc

Continue to alternate fpdc and dc. Photo below shows finished row 5.

Row 6: sc across in the same way as row 4.

Row 7 will be similar to row 3. Ch 1, dc in first sc. Fpdc around the second fpdc from two rows below.

This time, you’ll start and end with just one dc on either side.

Simply repeat rows 4-7 for stitch pattern!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to crochet the Alpine Stitch. What will you make with this stitch? Maybe a blanket, or something as small as a dishcloth? Let me know in the comments!

To see my library of over 40 stitch tutorials, click here.


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Happy Crocheting!

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