Spring has sprung! It’s March 20th, the first day of Spring. I don’t know about you, but I am pretty excited! I just love it when the cold winter melts away and the spring flowers start popping out. In fact, I love it so much that I think it calls for a new pattern…Honeycomb Kid’s Cowl! With Spring also comes Easter—and we all know how little girls love a new dress when Easter comes around. This cowl would be the perfect addition to any little girl’s outfit.
Around here, Spring may start on March 20th, but the weather can still be pretty fickle. We will have some warm days, and then it will turn cold again. Sometimes the trees even start blooming (that is our almond tree in the picture below with blooms) and then it suddenly freezes unexpectedly! When that happens our blooming fruit trees lose all their fruit 🙁 It takes awhile before we know for sure that the warmth has come to stay. However, the nice yellow color of this cowl reminds me that the bright, sunny days of Spring and Summer are just around the corner!
Since I designed this cowl for an active eight-year-old, I used acrylic yarn, not merino wool or anything expensive. I’ll just admit it now—the yarn I used was something unnamed in my stash that my Great-Grandma gave me. So no, I can’t tell you the exact yarn I used. However, I can point you to a similar one that would work great! Loops and Threads Woolike is a great Fingering weight acrylic yarn. One of the great things about it is that it is super cheap! Literally, it’s $2.99 for 100 grams at Michaels. I would definitely recommend it! Click here to buy some for yourself!
One more note on yarnie stuff—although I used acrylic yarn for this kid’s cowl, I still had to block it. Now, you’ve probably heard people say a million times that you can’t block acrylic yarn—”You’ll kill it!” While it is possible to “kill” acrylic yarn, it is actually not likely. In fact, blocking acrylic is actually very easy! You have to use a method called steam blocking. If you don’t know what that is, don’t worry. I will be putting out a tutorial soon. If you have any questions before that, feel free to contact me.
Okay, just one more note before we get to the pattern….isn’t my model adorable?! In the next series of pictures, I got her to laugh hysterically. I don’t even remember what I said—but it must’ve been pretty funny!
Okay, now what we’ve all been waiting for: here is the pattern!! Note: to purchase ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click here
Honeycomb Kid’s Cowl
Cowl is worked back and forth in rows; turn at the end of each row.
If you would like to change the size of this cowl, it is very easy to do! I wrote a post a couple weeks back with just the stitch pattern. That post can be found here.
The pattern will be in 2 parts: first, the written pattern; then some pictures to help with potentially confusing parts of the pattern.
For a complete list of standard crochet abbreviations, click here.
- Approximately 50 grams of fingering weight yarn
- Sample Yarn: Loops and Threads Woolike
- F/3.75mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Blocking materials
First 6 rows of pattern = 4″ high, 6 1/4″ wide
The picture below shows about what your gauge swatch should look like. Please note that gauge is not critical for this pattern, as a slightly smaller or larger cowl won’t make a huge difference.
8″ wide, 28″ long.
Fsc 24, turn.
Row 1: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first fsc. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). *(sc, ch 7, sc) in next fsc. Sk fsc, sc in next fsc. Rep from * till 4 sts left. (Sc, ch 7 sc), in next fsc. Sk next fsc, sl st in next fsc. Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in last fsc.
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next st. (Tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 7 loop. *Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 7. Rep from * 5 times more. Tr in last 2 tr.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first tr. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). *Sc in next ch-2 sp. (Sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 5 times more. Sc in last ch-2 sp, sk next tr, sl st in next tr. Ch 4 (counts as tr). Tr in last st.
Row 4: Ch 4, tr in next tr. Ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch-7 loop. *Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch-7 loop. Rep from * 5 times more. Ch 2, tr in last 2 tr.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first st. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). (Sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-2 sp. *Sc in next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 4 times more. Sc in next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7, sc) in last ch-2 sp. Sl st in next tr, ch 4 (counts as tr). Tr in last tr.
Repeat rows 2-5 till your cowl measures approximately 20 1/2 inches, or desired length. End on a row 2. (I did 35 rows total, including the final sc row).
LAST ROW: ch 1 (does NOT count as st). Sc in first 2 tr. *2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 5 times more. 2 sc in last ch-2 sp. Sc in final 2 tr.
Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to finished measurements. After blocking is finished, with RS facing, sew the two ends together.
This is a tutorial for the beginning and end of every odd row, as these rows can be slightly confusing.
On any odd row, you will be asked to: “Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st). Tr in first st.” In the picture below, the hook is in the stitch you should go into.
With the finished tr:
Then ch 4, sl st in next st. This does count as a tr, as the pattern says. Why do a ch 4 here instead of a regular tr? Because the rest of the row uses sc sts. The ch-4 allows you to be at the “bottom” of the row, in order to continue with sc and ch-7 loops. See picture…
Continue across the row…
When you get to the end of the row, you will sl st in the second to last tr from the end. Then ch-4, as shown. This, too, counts as a tr.
Finally, tr in the last tr. Picture below shows the ending of the row in context:
Remember, to get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, visit this link.
— Rachel 🙂