Just a reminder, I have a beginner’s guide to color work that will explain everything you need to know about your mandala. Be sure to check it out if you’re struggling!

If this is the first time you’re seeing this pattern, be sure to first read the other posts I’ve published about the CAL. You won’t be able to make the pattern starting from here, since it is split into 5 different posts covering the yarn and sizing, plus separate stages of the pattern.

• INTRO POST
• PATTERN PART 1
• PATTERN PART 2
• PATTERN PART 3 is where you’re at right now!

Here we will just cover some quick references (see below) but the other posts cover lots more details.

QUICK LINKS

• To join the CAL community in my Facebook Group, click HERE.
• To view the #mandalapullover hashtag (those who’ve entered the giveaway) click HERE

MANDALA PULLOVER Color Work: PATTERN PART 3

Unfortunately, the sweater section of this pattern is no longer available. However, you can still make a color work mandala! View the second half of the color work written instructions below.

To View Rows 1-26 of the color work, CLICK HERE.

← Row 27 [RS]: (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2 

→ Row 28 [WS]: MC, CC, (MC) x 12, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 3, MC, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 12, CC, MC 

← Row 29 [RS]: (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 30 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 5, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 6, CC, (MC) x 2, CC, (CC2) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 31 [RS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 3, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 32 [WS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 3 

← Row 33 [RS]: (MC) x 3, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, (CC) x 9, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 8, (MC) x 5, (CC) x 9, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 34 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 35 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 36 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, (CC) x 2, CC3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 37 [RS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 4, (CC) x 4, (CC2) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

→ Row 38 [WS]: (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 4, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 3, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2 

← Row 39 [RS]: (MC) x 3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC2) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (CC2) x 2, CC, (MC) x 10, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 3 

→ Row 40 [WS]: (MC) x 5, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 10, CC, CC2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, CC2, CC, (MC) x 10, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 5 

← Row 41 [RS]: (MC) x 9, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 3, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 9 

→ Row 42 [WS]: (MC) x 10, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 10 

← Row 43 [RS]: (MC) x 11, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 4, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 11 

→ Row 44 [WS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 5, MC, CC, (MC) x 12, CC, MC, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 13 

← Row 45 [RS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, MC, CC, (MC) x 14, CC, MC, CC, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 46 [WS]: (MC) x 13, CC, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 6, (MC) x 8, (CC) x 6, (CC3) x 2, CC, (MC) x 13 

← Row 47 [RS]: (MC) x 13, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 3, CC3, CC, (MC) x 8, CC, CC3, (CC) x 3, (CC3) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 13 

→ Row 48 [WS]: (MC) x 14, CC, (CC3) x 6, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 6, (CC) x 2, (CC3) x 6, CC, (MC) x 14 

← Row 49 [RS]: (MC) x 14, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 4, (CC) x 10, (MC) x 14 

→ Row 50 [WS]: (MC) x 15, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 2, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 3, (CC) x 5, (MC) x 15 

← Row 51 [RS]: (MC) x 24, (CC) x 4, (MC) x 24 

→ Row 52 [WS]: (MC) x 25, (CC) x 2, (MC) x 25 

I hope you’ve enjoyed making the mandala!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Mandala Pullover Color Work Section – Pattern Part 3 appeared first on .

For the Fall Favorites Blog Hop, me and the other Design Create Repeat team members will be sharing FREE PDF patterns from different designers each day throughout October! A new designer will be featured each day. We have split up this event into 4 weeks; each week you will find the free patterns on a different blog.

Week 1: The Patterns were on the Counting Crafty Sheep blog! Note: this week of patterns is now over. You can scroll down to see each pattern and click to the blog version; however, the PDFs are no longer free.

Week 2: The Patterns were on the Joy of Motion Blog! Note: this week of patterns is now over. You can scroll down to see each pattern and click to the blog version; however, the PDFs are no longer free.

Week 3: The Patterns are here on Desert Blossom Crafts! this week of patterns is now over. You can scroll down to see each pattern and click to the blog version; however, the PDFs are no longer free.

Week 4: PATTERNS ARE NOW AVAILABLE ON THE Salty Pearl Crochet blog!

How it Works

Starting October 17, come to this post. From October 17 to the 24, I will feature one designer per day. To get all the PDFs for free, you have to come back daily, as they will only be free for 24 hours!

THIS POST WILL BE UPDATED EACH DAY BETWEEN 7 and 8 AM PST.

Look for this button once you click over to the designer’s website:

SHARE, SHARE, SHARE!

I don’t know about you, but I think it’s pretty awesome that designers are willing to give away free PDFs for us all. All of us would appreciate if you share this event! We want as many people to participate in the October blog hop as possible!!

When sharing, please share the link to THIS post, not just the featured designer’s website. When you share this link, it helps there to be consistency for where to look each day. It also helps everyone involved benefit the greatest. Then the designers AND me, as the host, will get ad money when you visit our website.

Please Pin the image below to your pinterest boards to help spread the word!

So: Here is a breakdown of what you’ll need to do each day once the event starts.

1. Come to this roundup post. Scroll down until you see the pattern of the day.
2. Click on the crochet pattern link for the designer of the day.
3. This link will take you to their website, which will in turn have a link that allows you to download the pdf for free on Ravelry!
4. Each PDF will be available only 24 hours, so make sure to check back each day!
5. After this week is over, the next patterns will be featured on the Salty Pearl Crochet blog! So you will repeat the same steps, but on a different blog.

FALL FAVORITES BLOG HOP: WEEK 3

Note: the PDFs for this week are no longer free, but all the patterns are still free on each designer’s blog! I definitely still recommend checking out the patterns because they’re beautiful.

October 17: The Cadunt Cardigan by Joy of Motion

October 18: The Glacial Freeze Pullover by Love Life Yarn

October 19: Alicia Ear Warmer

October 20: 2 Patterns by Salty Pearl Crochet

1. The Venus Shell

2. Easy Ribbed Boho Turban

October 21: Cozy Hygge Blanket Shawl by Sigoni Macaroni

October 22: Winding Ridges Cowl by Simply Hooked by Janet

October 23: Tunisian Foxy Scarf and Cowl by Noor’s Knits

October 24: Caitlin’s Contagious Creations

Be sure to go to the Salty Pearl Crochet blog for Week 4 of the blog hop!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Fall Favorites Blog Hop—Over 30 FREE PDF PATTERNS! appeared first on .

I’ve been wanting to design a dress for a long time. To be honest though, it’s intimidating! There’s a lot more logistics that go into a dress—more shaping, complex sizing, etc. BUT, one day I decided to just go for it, and now I’m so glad I did! The Parisian Dress turned out way better than I ever imagined it would.

So, let’s talk about inspiration first. When I was picturing this dress, I really wanted something stylish, with a touch of elegance, but also summery and fun. My vision was an all single-crochet, form fitting bodice, plus a knee-length, lacy skirt. It was so awesome to see my vision come to life!

The stitch I used for the skirt is called the Eiffel Tower Stitch—and yes, it looks like Eiffel Towers if you look at the dc’s in the stitch! Thus, the name “Parisian Dress.”

If you would like an ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, it can be found on either Etsy or Ravelry! This version is formatted to be extremely easy to follow, and it includes the row charts for the v-neck in separate PDFs (super easy to print!)

Another great thing about this dress is that there are lots of ways you can adjust it to fit you perfectly! Throughout the pattern, look out for the heading “Adjustment tip” for tips on how to adjust. You can adjust the v-neck, the length of the skirt, and more!

The Parisian Dress

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the PDF version of this pattern on Etsy, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Premier Yarns Everyday Baby Yarn
• Or approximately 1200-2500 yards DK weight yarn, depending on size 
• H/8 (5mm) hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• J (6mm) hook (or two sizes bigger than hook you obtained gauge with) 
• Yarn needles

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS – right side

Special Stitch:

V-stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated stitch. 

Sizing: 

Sizes shown are XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust size: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50)”

Pattern is designed to fit true to size. Choose a size that is as close to your bust size as possible. The bodice is designed to be close-fitting, so you’ll want either a size that is the same as your bust, or one with a little bit of negative ease. If you choose a size larger than your bust, just know it will be more loose-fitting than mine is. 

NOTE: Especially for larger sizes, be sure to also look at the waist measurement below when choosing your size. Because of the form-fitting nature of this top, those with larger busts may want to size up. 

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 30”, wearing a size XS. 

Finished Measurements:

Width of the widest part of the bodice (bust): 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50)”

Waist: 24 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42)” 

Length of Bodice: 16.4 (17, 17.2, 17.4, 17.8, 18)”

Armhole: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)”

Length of skirt: easily adjustable! 

Gauge:

16 sc and 20 rows in sc = 4”

Notes:

1. The bodice of the dress is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides and shoulders. The sleeves and skirt are joined on after assembly and worked in joined rounds.
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc. 
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc. 
4. Pattern is written in size XS, with sizes S, M, L, XL, and 2XL in parentheses. 
5. There are a few times the sizes will be split up. At these times, the parentheses will be different than shown above. 

Instructions:

BODICE PANELS (Make 2)

Row 1 (RS): Fsc 48 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84). 

Note: For this section of the pattern, XS will be separate, and other sizes will be shown as S (M L XL, 2XL). 

SIZE XS ONLY:

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea fsc across. (48 sc)

Rows 3-9: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across. (48 sc). 

Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. (50 sc)

Rows 11-15: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across. (50 sc). 

Rows 16-52: Rep rows 10-15 a total of 5 times more. (60 sc at the end of row 52)  

Sizes S-2XL: 

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in ea fsc across, turn. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84) sc

Rows 3-9: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across, turn. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84) sc

Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. 54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sc

Rows 11-14: Ch 1, sc in ea sc across, turn. 54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sc

Row 15: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc. Sc across until 1 st left. 2 sc in last st, turn. 56 (64, 72, 80, 88) sc

Rows 16-45: Rep rows 11-15 a total of 6 times more, turn. 68 (76, 84, 92, 100) sc at the end of row 45. 

Continue doing rows of even sc for the number of rows as follows: 

Adjustment Tip: Here is where you can adjust the length of your bodice! Simply add or subtract rows of even sc until it is the length you want. Be aware that the v-neck will add about 6” MORE length. The goal  is to get the overall bodice to reach from your shoulders to around your belly button. However, if you want a higher or lower waisted dress, you could also adjust that here as well. 

When you finish your specified amount of rows, do not fasten off. Instead, turn and continue to v-neck.

BEGIN V-NECK

All Sizes (back to regular parenthesis – XS-2X): 

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49) sc, turn. 

Row 2-30: Follow chart below labeled “V-Neck Side 1” (you’ll see it right after the notes)

The reason for the chart: From here on out each size uses a different pattern of decreases. To write this out for each size would be lengthy and hard to follow. For this reason, I have opted for a chart that will show you each individual size. There is one for the first side of the v-neck, and one for the second side.

How to Use the Chart:

1: First, find your size. This is at the top of each column. On the far left is the Row Number. Every size has 30 rows.

2: To know which row to work, follow the column with the heading “Pattern.” There are 3 different types of rows you will do: Decrease (dec) row 1, dec row 2, and normal. Each time you see one of these in the chart, work them as follows: 

Dec Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first sc. Sc2tog. Sc in remaining sc across, turn. 

Dec Row 2: Ch 1, sc in all sc across until 3 left. Sc2tog, sc in last sc, turn.

Normal Row: Ch 1, sc across, turn. 

Note: The only difference between dec row 1 and dec row 2 is that the decrease (“dec”) is done at the end vs. the beginning of the row. Also, to the right of your size, there is a column that will show you the stitch count for the corresponding row. 

ONE LAST NOTE: These v-neck instructions are by no means what you HAVE to follow. You can most definitely adjust the length/depth of your v-neck! Just know that the width of the shoulders will change as well.

OTHER SIDE OF V-NECK

Go back to last row of main body. With WS of work facing, Sk 2 sc and join yarn with a sc in next sc. Row 1: Continue to sc across the rest of the back panel. Turn.

Row 2-30: Follow the chart below: “V-Neck Side 2”. Follow the chart in the exact same way as the first side. Note: the only difference between the two sides is that you will decrease at the opposite end of the rows. The pattern of decreases is the same, but opposite dec rows are used. 

BODICE ASSEMBLY

Lay out panels with right sides together. Sew Shoulder seams and side seams (see dotted lines on image below) leaving a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)” arm opening. 

SLEEVES

Rnd 1: Join yarn with a sl st at the base of armhole. Work 52 (56, 60, 64, 68, 72) sc evenly around the armhole. Join with sl st to beg sc. 

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc) dc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. *Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. Rep from * till one sc left. Sk last sc, sl st to beg dc. 

Rnd 3: Sl st in next dc. Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3) Sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *Sk next dc, dc in next dc. Ch 3, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 1 st left. Sk last st, sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. *Ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last dc, and sl st to 3rd chain of beg ch-5. 

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for both sleeves!

SKIRT 

With larger hook, join yarn with a sl st at the side of the skirt (near one of the side seams of the bodice). This will help the joins be less conspicuous.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, v-stitch in next fsc. *Dc in next fsc, v-stitch in next fsc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg ch 3. Note: to ensure this row is strong to support the weight of the skirt, work over the entire first fsc row (not just the flimsy chain at the bottom of the fsc). 

Rnd 2: Sl st in next dc. Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch 3) sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *Sk next dc, dc in next dc. Ch 3, Sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. Rep from * until 1 st left. Sk last st, sl st to beg ch 3. 

Rnd 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2) *Ch 2, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last dc and sl st to 3rd chain of beg ch-5. 

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st. *2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 2 dc. Rep from * around. On last repeat, simply omit last sc and sl st to first sc. 

Rnd 5: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc) dc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. *Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Sk 1 sc, v-stitch in next sc. Rep from * till one sc left. Sk last sc, sl st to beg dc. 

Repeat Rnds 2-5 until skirt reaches your desired length! I did a total of 33 rows for the XS. 

Finishing: Join yarn at back of neck opening. Sc evenly around neck opening. Join with sl st to beg sc. If desired, do one more even round of sc around. Fasten off and weave in ends! 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post The Parisian Dress, A Free Crochet Pattern for Women appeared first on .

In case you haven’t heard, the past 2 weeks we’ve been crocheting along to make to make the Midnight Top, a stylish summer crochet top! I have had SO much fun seeing all the work-in-progress photos in my Facebook Group—which, by the way, is the community for the CAL, so be sure to join it!

If this is the first time you’re seeing this post, be sure to first read the Intro post, and the Part 1 post. There you’ll find all the information you need to make your top, including detailed information about yarn and sizing.

Here we will just cover some quick references (see below) but the other posts cover lots more details.

Quick Links

• To stop reading all these different blog posts and go straight to the printable PDF, click HERE.
• To buy the yarn for this top (Lion Brand Jeans), click HERE.
• To join the CAL community in my Facebook Group, click HERE.
• To read more details about the CAL, click HERE.
• To pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE.

THE MIDNIGHT TOP: FREE CROCHET ALONG PART 2

Note: this is PART 2 of the Midnight Top pattern. If you’re just starting your top, be sure to view the post below.

MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Jeans yarn 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins
• Total yardage needed: Approx. 470 (550, 620, 700, 780) yards worsted weight yarn
• K/6.5mm crochet hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED (U.S. TERMINOLOGY):

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

SPECIAL STITCHES: 

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated stitch.

SIZING

The finished bust size of the top (as long as you obtain gauge) is: 33 (39, 45, 50, 56)”

You can go for a few different looks as far as this top goes. If you want a loose fitting top, then choose a size that is 2-3” larger than your bust. However, if you want a more fitted top, go for either a size that is the same as your bust, or go for negative ease by choosing a size 1-2” smaller than your bust. 

For reference, I chose to make mine with 3” of positive ease. My bust is 30”, and I made a size Small. 

GAUGE:

11 dc = 4”

5 rows of dc = 3”

NOTES

1. This top’s construction is a raglan; it is worked from the top down.

2. Ch 3 at beginning of rnds counts as a stitch.

3. Ch 2 at beginning of rnds does NOT count as stitch.

4. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M-2XL in parentheses.

INSTRUCTIONS: 

This pattern picks up where Part 1 left off. We finished the yoke in part 1, and now we will join the armholes and continue with the body!

BODY:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in ch-sp of current sh. Ch 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) skip all the dc before next sh. 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh (armhole made), dc in all dc up to next sh. 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh. Ch 3 (4, 5, 6, 7), skip all the dc before next sh, 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh (armhole made), dc in remaining dc. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc), dc in same st as sl st. Dc in next dc. Dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) chains. Dc in all dc until next set of chains. Dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) chains. Dc in remaining dcs around. Join with sl st to beg ch 2. 92 (108, 124, 140, 156) dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st as sl st. Dc in ea dc around. Join with a sl st to beg dc.

Rep rnd 2 till work measures 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) inches, or until top is your desired length! (Feel free to adjust the length here!)

Last Rnd: Ch 1, sc in next st. *Ch 3, Sk next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until one st left. Ch 3, Sk last st, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. 46 (54, 62, 70, 78) ch sps.

FINISHING

Sleeves: Join yarn with a sc at the base of the armpit. Sc evenly around the armhole opening. Join with a sl st to first sc, and fasten off.

Neck: Join yarn with a sc at the back of the neck opening. Sc evenly around the neck opening. Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off, and weave in ends.

That’s it—you’re done! Thank you SO MUCH for participating in my CAL; I’ve had so much fun with you guys!

DON’T FORGET to share your finished pictures in my Facebook Group, and share pictures on Instagram too! I want to see you wearing your new summer top!

Tag me @desertblossomcrafts, and use the hashtag#midnightcal and #themidnighttop so everyone else crocheting along can see as well.

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

The post Midnight Top—FREE Crochet Along Part 2 appeared first on .

Disclosure: this post may contain Affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you. I will not link anything that I have not personally used and love

The inspiration for this shawl came kind of spontaneously. I knew I wanted to use up my Stroll Gradient yarn, so I started a shawl. As I crocheted, the design just flowed out! The great thing about this shawl is that it is very easily adjustable. You can make it as small or as big as you want! Plus, it only takes one skein of yarn to make! Keep reading to find out more about the beautiful yarn I used.

The Yarn

Okay, so lets talk about the yarn. Like I said, I used Knit Picks Stroll Gradient. This is an absolutely gorgeous yarn. It is 75% superwash merino wool, which makes it wonderfully soft and squishy. Plus, it comes in a bunch of beautiful colorways! Each ball has three complimenting colors that fade into each each other. I used the color called spacewalk. As you can tell, it is a lovely combination of blues and purples.

Ready to make this shawl for your own wardrobe? Here are the instructions!

Wave Shawl

 By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this Pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE

Notes:

1. Shawl is one large triangular piece. Pattern starts at the tip and is worked outward, with increases along each side edge. 
2. Turn at the end of each row, unless otherwise specified.
3. When turning, ch 3 always counts as first stitch.
4. For a comprehensive list of standard abbreviations, click here

Materials

• Fingering weight yarn, approximately 460 yards total
• Sample yarn: 1 cake of Knit Picks Stroll Gradient
• F/3.75mm hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends
• Wet Blocking materials (click here for blocking instructions).

Finished Measurements:

This shawl is very easily adjustable. Simply keep repeating the established pattern till it reaches desired size. (More instructions farther down.)

Special Stitches:

V-Stitch: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated stitch.

Shell (sh): (5 dc) in indicated stitch

Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 4, 4 dc in 4th ch from hook.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout), 4 dc in first dc. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. Ch 1, v-stitch in between next 2 shells. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch 1 space) twice. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 6-20: Repeat row 5.

Row 21: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Sh in next ch-1 space. V-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 22: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in last dc of same sh. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 23: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 24: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. NOTE on last shell, you will only skip 3 dc instead of 4. Ch 2, sk next ch-2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 25:  Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 9 times. Ch 2, sk next v-stitch and next ch 2. Sh in first dc of next sh. Sk 3 dc, sh in next dc. (Sk 4 dc, sh in next dc) across all shells. Ch 2, sk next ch 2 and next v-stitch, v-stitch in next ch-1 space. (Ch 1, v-stitch in next ch-1 space) 8 times. Ch 1, sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Row 26-46: Repeat rows 24-25.

To adjust shawl: simply keep repeating row 24-25 until shawl reaches desired length, then work edging below.

Edging, last row: Ch 3, 4 dc in first dc. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in space between next two shells) across all shells. Sh in next ch-2 space. (Sh in next ch-1 space) across all ch-1 spaces. Sk 4 dc, sh in last dc.

Finishing:

Weave in ends, and block using the wet blocking method. 

That’s all there is to it—you’re done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Wave Shawl—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .