When I think of winter, one of my favorite things to do is to have something super cozy to huddle up in. This roundup was designed with that in mind! All these sweaters and cardigans are the perfect cozy winter crochet patterns.

And plus, there is something SO satisfying about crocheting your very own sweater. If you haven’t made a sweater yet, I promise it is so rewarding.

Whether you’re an expert at crocheting sweaters or you’re just starting, don’t worry! These patterns satisfy a large range of interests. There’s something here for everyone!

Are you ready to see the 15+crochet sweater patterns?! Let’s dive right in!

All the Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Here we go! Scroll down the list of free crochet sweater patterns to get the inspiration flowing. Hopefully you will find one that is perfect for your hooks this winter!

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1: Cross my Heart Sweater

This pattern is designed by Meg Made With Love, and it’s just so cute! Click the button below the photo to go straight to the free pattern.

2: Seafarer’s Sweater

Secondly, we have this cute tapestry crochet sweater! The pattern is written by Zoë Curtis Crochet, and she made it as a guest post for Make and Do Crew blog!

3: Staycation Cardigan

This pattern was designed by Jessica from Make and Do Crew herself! This cardi just looks like the epitome of comfortable.

4: Monochrome Sweater

This cute cropped sweater pattern is by Sewrella! I love the stripes, and there are so many other color options you could choose!

5: Rainier Sweater

Another pattern by Sewrella…doesn’t this one look so warm?!

6: Angelica Cardigan

This cardigan pattern was designed by me, Desert Blossom Crafts, and it is actually one of the most popular patterns on my blog!

7: Slice of Nice Sweater

This super cool sweater was designed Colourful Crochet as a guest post on the Make and Do Crew blog. It’s made from the top-down, which means it is seamless!

8: Sherbet Sweater

This colorful sweater was designed by Amber from Divine Debris! It’s a beginner-friendly pattern you’ll want to check out.

9: Nebbia Sweater

This cozy sweater pattern was written by Crystal by CristaCo Design!

10: Entwined Chic Cable Sweater

This beautiful Cable crochet pattern is on the Yarnspirations website! Personally, I love cables, so I might just have to make this at some point…

11: Rosewood Cardigan

This cardigan looks deliciously soft, don’t you think? Plus, the blush color is so pretty! Stephanie from All About Ami did a great job.

12: Velvety Pullover

Ok, now this is a sweater that just couldn’t be left out. How could you not want to make this velvety soft sweater? I think Jessica from Mama in a Stitch designed the ultimate cozy winter crochet pattern.

13: Fallow Fawn Roll Neck Sweater

Olivia from Hopeful Honey really knocked this one out of the park! This sweater looks so cozy, since it’s like a sweater and a cowl all in one!

14: Beginner Crochet Sweater

If you’re new to making garments, this sweater by Sweet Everly B would be perfect!

15: Cable Cardigan

This cardigan by Maria’s Blue Crayon has an awesome feature: a cable going around the whole rim! I absolutely love it!

16: Hudson Cardigan

If you’re looking for some awesome texture, this cardigan by Hooked on Tilly certainly has it!

17: Pulled Taffy Pullover

This sweater by Breann from Hooked on Homemade Happiness is so cute! I love how the stripes are done.

18: Striped Raglan Sweater

I love raglan sweaters! In my mind, the less sewing I have to do, the better. That’s just one of the awesome features of this beautiful sweater by Maria’s Blue Crayon!

Which Sweater Pattern is Your Favorite?

I’d love to hear if you found your next project from this list of free crochet sweater patterns!

If you have a favorite, comment below so I can see!

More Crochet Pattern Roundups

• 15 Worsted Weight Yarn Crochet Hat Patterns
• Wool Ease Thick & Quick Crochet Patterns
• Best Crochet Patterns for Fall Leaves
• 24 Amazing Crochet Bag Patterns
• 6 Free Crochet Shawl Patterns

To view all my free crochet patterns, click here.

Happy Crocheting!

The post Essential Winter Crochet Patterns: 15+Crochet Sweater Patterns (FREE!) appeared first on .

Meet Heidi, my adorable little sister. She absolutely loves her new sweater, and wears it all the time!

The Heidi Sweater is worked in 2 rectangles, with decreases on the front to form a v-neck, and then 2 sleeves which are sewn on afterward. The construction is very simple!

Not to mention, this sweater is very, very soft. It’s something you want to snuggle up in a lot (kind of like little sleepies pajamas, which I hear are pretty cozy!)

As always, grab the PDF crochet pattern HERE. This version is ad-free, and includes extra photos for visual learners.

Just one more thing before we get to the pattern: check out the AMAZING versions of this sweater by my testers! Feel free to pin this image here as well. As you can see, this sweater looks amazing on all the sizes, from 2, all the way up to 12!

The Heidi Sweater

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To buy the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Everyday: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins. I used the colorway Blue Heather. To substitute, use a similar worsted weight yarn.

• Total yardage needed: 400 (500, 600, 700, 800, 900) yards (approximate)
• H (5mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• G hook (4mm)  (or one size smaller than the hook you obtained gauge with)
• Yarn needle

See my favorite sweater yarns here!

Notes:

1. Sweater is worked in 4 panels: a front panel, back panel, and 2 sleeves, which are all sewn together at the end.  
2. Chain 2 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a stitch
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as stitch
4. Pattern is written in size 2, with sizes 4-12 in parentheses. At one point in the pattern, the sizes will be broken up into sections. Follow the section that corresponds to your size.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Single crochet 2 together – sc2tog

Half double crochet – hdc

Back Loop – BL

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Special Stitches:

Bobble: Insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up loop. YO, insert hook in same stitch, YO, pull up loop. YO, Pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog): YO, insert hook into indicated st, YO, pull up loop. Insert hook in next st. YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Sizing:

Finished Chest size: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) inches

Length of panels: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 30) inches (adjustable if desired)

Armhole & Sleeve Length: adjustable

I recommend choosing a size 2-3” inches bigger than your child’s actual bust size. If you are in between sizes, please size up.

For reference, model is 4’ 2″ with a bust of 24”, wearing a size 8.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Wintergreen Cowl 2/ Lattice Stitch 3/ Angelica Cardigan

Gauge:

7 bobbles (13 sts) and 12 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

To make a gauge swatch:

Fsc a multiple of 2+1. Work rows 2-3 of the back panel for stitch pattern.

Instructions:

BACK PANEL

Ribbing

With G hook (or one size smaller than it took you to obtain gauge) ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (7 sc)

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as st, here and throughout) sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn. (7 sc)

Rep row 2 for a total of 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) rows.

Change to H hook (or size you obtained gauge with) Begin working along the side of ribbing.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ea row along the side of ribbing band. Turn. 33 (35, 39, 43, 45, 49) sc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st) hdc in FIRST sc. (Sk next sc, 2 hdc in next sc) across row. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn. REMEMBER here that the ch 2 from Row 2 does NOT count as a stitch, so you do not work a stitch into it.

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Rep rows 3-4 until panel reaches 17.5 (18, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20) inches long.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: you can make your sweater as long or as short as you would like! Simply add or subtract rows here to make your sweater longer or shorter as desired. Just make sure to end on a Row 4.

FRONT PANEL

Repeat as for the Back Panel, except keep repeating rows 3-4 until work reaches 14.5 (15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17) inches.

OR: if you have adjusted the length of your sweater, keep repeating rows 3-4 until your work measure 3” SHORTER than your back panel! This leaves room for the v-neck.

BEGIN V-NECK

Sizes 4, 6, 8: (parentheses will now be in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, Bobble in next st. (Sc in next st, bobble in next st) 6 (7, 8) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 15 (17, 19) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, bobble in next st. *Sc in next st, bobble in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in last st. TURN.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. Sk 1 hdc. With WS facing, Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

V-neck for Sizes 2, 10, 12: (parentheses now shown in this order)

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) 6 (9, 10) times. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. Sc in next st. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc) hdc in first st. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts. Hdc in ea st across. TURN. 14 (20, 22) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. *Bobble in next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st. TURN.  

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7, (11, 11) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: You can totally make your v-neck longer or shorter! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired size. Keep in mind that the length of your v-neck will affect the size of your neck opening. You can easily make the opening bigger by repeating rows 2-3. Just keep in mind that your front panel needs to end up the same length as your back panel.

Second half of v-neck:

Row 1: Go back to the center of the v-neck, to the remaining unworked row. With WS facing, sk 1 hdc. Join yarn with a sc in next hdc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st until 3 sts left. Hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Rep rows 2-3 for a total of 7 (9, 9) rows.

Last row: Ch 1, hdc in first st and in ea st across. (No decreases.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: Make sure to make this side of the v-neck the same length as the other side!

SLEEVES

With G hook, Ch 8.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and ea ch across. Turn.

Row 2: ch 1, sc in BL of ea sc across. Turn.

Rep row 2 for a total of 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) rows.

SIZE ADJUSTMENT: You can adjust the width of the band of your sleeves if desired! You will just need to add or subtract rows to the band of ribbing. However, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows total.

Change back to your H hook. Working along the side of ribbing, sc 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) across. (1 sc per row) Turn.

If you have adjusted the number of rows in your band, simply do 1 sc in each row. Remember, you must have a multiple of 2+1 rows in your ribbing, and thus also a multiple of 2+1 sc after this row.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), 2 hdc in first st. Hdc in ea st across till one sc left. 2 hdc in last sc. Turn. (2 increases made)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. (Bobble in next st, sc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in first st. (Sk next st, 2 hdc in next st) across row. Turn.

Row 5: Rep row 3

Row 6: Rep row 4

Row 7: Rep row 3

Rep rows 2-7 for a total of 31, (31, 37, 37, 43, 43) rows OR until sleeve reaches desired length!

SIZE ADJUSTMENT TIP: If you adjust the length of the sleeves, make sure to check the width to make sure it fits around the arm!

Repeat sleeve instructions for second sleeve!

ASSEMBLY

Note: I used single crochet seams for all assembly for extra strength. However, feel free to use any seaming method you prefer.

Lay your panels together as the first picture below shows, with right sides together and wrong sides facing out. Sew the tops of the v-neck to the adjacent part of the back panel, using your preferable seaming method.

Step 2:

With right sides together, fold sleeve in half. Sew up the side of the sleeve, then turn it right side out as shown below.

Step 3: Attaching the sleeves

This method for attaching your sleeves might be slightly counterintuitive at first, but trust me… it works! (And its genius!)

Begin by laying out your panels with the WRONG sides facing out. Then lay one sleeve in the middle, with the sleeve seam facing the bottom of the sweater. (first picture)

Then take the back panel and bring it over the front panel & the sleeve to make a sort of “sleeve sandwich”.

Next, sew around the entire opening of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panel. I like to start at the top, sew down one side and fasten off, and then start at the top again, sew down the other side of the sleeve and down the side of the front & back panels.

When you’ve finished seaming, turn your sweater right side out!

FINISHING

Join yarn with a sc at the back of neck opening. Sc around the entire neck opening. Join with a sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns like this, sign up for my email list below!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Kid’s Crochet Sweater—Free Pattern appeared first on .

This sweater is super easy to make—it is constructed basically of 2 rectangles!

Despite the fact that this is an easy pattern, it was difficult to design. This is the first sweater I’ve ever successfully converted to 6 sizes—Small all the way to 3XL! It’s been a long process, so I hope you guys enjoy it.

If you are interested in the easily printable, ad-free version of this pattern, find it HERE. I want to thank everyone in advance who decides to purchase this. Thank you for supporting my small business!

All right, lets talk about this pattern just a bit more before getting started with the instructions. The yarn this pattern calls for is Knit Picks Paragon Sport. You can use any sport weight yarn, but I especially LOVE this yarn! It is literally soo soft, and it has a nice bouncy feel to it.

Get some for your sweater by clicking HERE!

All right, now to the pattern!

Adalyn Pullover

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Knit Picks Paragon Sport, or other sport weight yarn, in 2 colors

• Color A: 6 (8, 9, 11, 13, 15) balls

• Color B: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) balls

• I used Doe (color A) and Shoal (color B) These colors, unfortunately, are being discontinued. However, there are still some of the color Doe left for a ridiculously good price!! Make sure and check it out here. 

• Total yardage needed: S: 925 yards, M: 1230 yards, L: 1350 yards, XL: 1720 yards, 2XL: 1970 yards, 3XL: 2220 yards

• G Hook (or size to obtain gauge)

• Yarn needle

OTHER FREE CROCHET PATTERNS I LOVE (AND YOU SHOULD TOO!)

1. NIAGARA CARDIGAN / 2. NEW YORK SIGN / 3. WAVE SHAWL

Notes:

1. Sweater is worked in 2 rectangles which are then sewn together at the sides and shoulders. Sleeves are then joined at the armhole and worked in turned rounds.

1. If you want to have less ends to weave in after crocheting the stripes, follow the appendix for detailed color-changing instructions.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Double crochet – dc

Fpdc: front post double crochet

Bpdc: back post double crochet

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Sizing:

Bust: 32 (35, 40, 43, 48, 51) inches

Width of panels: 16 (17.5, 20, 21.5, 24, 25.5) inches

Length of panels: 17.5, 21, 21, 24.5, 24.5, 28” (adjustable if desired)

Armhole: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) inches

Sleeve Length: adjustable

I recommend choosing a size 1-2 inches bigger than your bust size. If you are in between sizes, please size up.

For reference, model is 5′ 3″ with a bust of 30″.

Gauge:

15 dc and 8 rows = 4”

Instructions:

Fsc 60 (66, 75, 81, 90, 96).

Rows 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in each st across. 60 (66, 75, 81, 90, 96) dc. Turn.

Rows 2-6: Repeat row 1.

After row 6, DO NOT TURN OR FASTEN OFF. Leave A loose so you can come back to it later. (see appendix for picture tutorial on changing colors).

Row 7: With RS of panel facing, join B with a sl st in first dc. Ch 3, dc in next dc. *Sk 2 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st. Rep from * till 4 sts left. Sk 2 sts, dc in last 2 dc. Fasten off B. Turn.

Row 8: With WS facing, pick up loose loop from B (see appendix for picture tutorial on color changes). Ch 3, 2 dc in next dc. *Dc in next dc. Dc in next ch-2 sp. Dc in next dc. Rep from * until 2 sts left. 2 dc in next dc, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 9-13: Ch 3, dc in each dc across. Turn.

Rep rows 7-13 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) times, or until panel reaches desired length. On LAST repeat, omit row 13 (you will only have 5 dc rows instead of 6.) Do not fasten off, but turn to begin shoulder.

Note on length customization:

You can do as many repeats of rows 7-13 as you want. Just keep in mind that another inch or so will be added with the bottom edging.

Shoulder (continues from panel without cutting yarn)

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30) dc. Dc2tog in next 2 dc. 20 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32) dc. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) dc2tog. Dc in each dc across. 19 (21, 24, 26, 29, 31) dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each dc across. Fasten Off.

Other side of shoulder:

Go back to the last row of the rectangular panel. Skip 18 (20, 23, 25, 28, 30) dc for neck opening. Then join yarn with a sl st in next dc to begin other side of shoulder.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc2tog in same st as sl st and next dc. Dc in all dc across. TURN.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each dc until 2 dc left. Dc2tog in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each dc across. Fasten off. 19 (22, 25, 27, 30, 32) dc.

You should have 2 identical panels:

Sew shoulder seams. Sew side seams, leaving a 6.5” (7”, 7.5”, 8”, 8.5”, 9”) armhole opening.

SLEEVES

Join A with a sl st at the base of armhole opening.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc evenly around armhole with 49 (53, 56, 60, 64, 68) dc. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st, here and throughout sleeve. This ch 2 helps eliminate a hole in the joining area) dc in all dc until 1 st left. Sk last dc, join with sl st to beg dc. TURN. (48, 52, 55, 59, 63, 67) dc.

Rep Rnd 2 (decreasing one st per row) till the following row:

S: Work to Rnd 16 (end with 36 dc)

M: Work to Rnd 18 (end with 38 dc)

L: Work to Rnd 19 (end with 40 dc)

XL: Work to Rnd 21 (end with 42 dc)

2XL: Work to Rnd 23 (end with 44 dc)

3XL: Work to Rnd 25 (end with 46 dc)

Next Rnd: Ch 2, dc in next st and each dc around.Join with sl st to beg dc. TURN. Repeat this rnd until sleeve reaches desired length. Make sure to end on a Right Side facing row, so that the first edging row will be wrong side facing.

Edging (work on the edges of sleeves and the bottom of sweater):

Join B with a sl st in any stitch.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st to beg dc. TURN.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st). *Fpdc over next dc, bpdc over next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first fpdc. DO NOT TURN.

Rnd 3: Ch 2 (does NOT count as st). *Fpdc over first fpdc, bpdc over next bpdc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first fpdc. Fasten off.

Appendix: Changing Colors

Step 1: Begin last double crochet of teal row: YO, insert hook into last dc, YO, pull through 2 loops. Now DROP color B and pick up color A.

Step 2: Insert hook into loose loop of color A. YO with color A.

Step 3: Pull through all 3 loops.

Turn work as usual and continue with pattern in color A!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog.

The post Adalyn Pullover—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .