With the Mandala Pullover CAL in full swing, and the second part of the pattern going live tomorrow, I knew it was time to publish this tutorial! You can’t make the sweater without knowing color work.

Before you freak out on me and change your mind about making the sweater…just breathe. Take a deep breath. Crochet color work may be different than you’re used to, but I promise it’s not all that difficult to learn. You’ll be rocking it in no time!

So, before we get into the nitty gritty, I want to start by answering some questions.

What are the types of crochet color work?

There are 3 main types of crochet color work: tapestry crochet, intarsia crochet, and fair isle crochet. They all are slightly different methods of doing color work, but the main goal is the same: to change colors as seamlessly as possible.

What will you show me in this tutorial?

In this tutorial, I will be showing you the very basics of crochet color work that you’ll need to know, regardless of which method you choose to use (tapestry, intarsia, etc.) I will also show you some of the differences between the methods of color work, and finally, give you some helpful tips along the way.

What method does the Mandala Pullover Use?

Let me be honest. Sometimes you can’t just follow ONE of the color work methods. When I do crochet color work, I usually combine the methods and use them interchangeably! The bottom line is, some of the methods work better for different parts of the Mandala Pullover. Once you get started on your project, (whether it’s this pullover or not) you’ll be able to get a feel for which method to use!

Please Share this tutorial by pinning it to your Pinterest Boards!

OKAY. Now that we’ve covered that, let’s get into the details of crochet color work! We will start by learning how to change colors. You will need to know how to do this regardless of which “method” of color work you’re using.

Changing Colors

Step 1:

First, we need to know the most basic step in color changing: yarning over with a new color! In the photo below, you’ll see that I am working with the color purple. When I am ready to change colors, I will start the process 1 stitch before the new color begins. I will begin this stitch as usual: insert hook in next st, pull up a loop. 

Step 2:

Next, YO with the NEW color (in my case, light blue). Pull through the 2 purple loops with the new color. 

 Now, simply continue with the new color! Note that on the RS, you will leave the unworked strand to the back of work, whereas on the WS, you’ll need to bring it to the front (shown in second photo below).

Carrying/Floating Colors

Once you actually change colors, there are several different methods of carrying the unworked colors across your work. You may need to use different methods at different times in an image (it can be different, for example, if you’re using only 2 colors versus 4).

As a general rule, however, here is what I do with spare yarn. On any RS row, I crochet over the unworked strands, “carrying” them through my stitches until I need them again. This usually hides them well so that they’re not visible on the RS. On the WS, however, carrying colors throughout will be very visible on the RS, which we definitely don’t want. So instead, I use the “floating” technique. With this method, you will simply drop the unworked color until you need it again; then, pick it up. Simply use it to YO to change colors, while letting the unused part “float” across the back of the work.

Carrying Unused Colors          

Floating Unused Colors

There is also a technique called Fair Isle. With this method, you do the “floats” but you do them over only a few stitches, and you do them on both the right and wrong side. This can reduce bulk in the color work; see photo below.

Fair Isle Crochet 

For the Mandala Pullover pattern, I did a mixture of the tapestry method and fair isle method. When you get to the rows with all 4 colors, you will probably want to do small floats as in fair isle, because carrying all the colors throughout will get way too bulky. However, on rows with 2 or 3 colors, carrying them across works fine. You will get a feel for it when you start your color work, don’t worry!

Other Helpful Tips

There may also be times when you need to separate the same color into 2 balls of yarn. This is because you may not want to carry the color all the way across a long row for just a few stitches. This is illustrated by the photo above—because the 2 teal sections are so far apart, I used two separate balls that I just had to pick up when I got to those colors. This also reduced bulk because I didn’t have to carry teal all the way across the row.

I hope this tutorial has taught you everything you need to know to get started with crochet color work! Be sure to view Part 2 of the Mandala Pullover so you can now put your knowledge into practice.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

The post Learn Crochet Color Work: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on .

If you’re like me, you probably have good intentions about making Christmas gifts for everyone you know…but in reality, that might not happen.

However, if you’re reading this post now looking for Christmas patterns, you have a pretty good start on things! This basket does not take long to make, so you’ll definitely come out ahead when you’re done.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.

The yarn I used for this pattern is the classic Red Heart Super Saver. Any worsted weight yarn should do fine with this basket, but super saver is a bit of a staple for me, haha—and especially for items around the house like this!

If you are interested in an ad-free, easy to print version of this pattern, it can be found HERE. A big thank you to everyone who decides to purchase—I wish I could show you the big smile on my face every time I see a sale come through!

Other Christmas Crochet Patterns:

• Ultimate list of 30+ Christmas Patterns for Gifting
• Christmas Star Ornaments
• Quick, Classic Ornaments

Winterberry Basket – Free Crochet Pattern

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Red Heart Super Saver, in 2 colors (white will be labeled as color A, and red as color B)

• H/8 Crochet Hook

• Yarn needle

Finished Measurements:

Diameter across bottom: 9.5”

Height: 10”

Notes:

Chain 2 at the beginning of each round NEVER counts as a stitch! This ch 2 is there simply to eliminate a hole in the joining area.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Special Stitch:

Puff stitch (puff st): YO, insert hook in indicated stitch. YO, pull up loop. Rep from * 3 times more. YO, pull through all 9 loops on hook.

Instructions:

Ch 3.

Rnd 1: 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to first hdc (the chain does NOT count as a hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in ea st around (20 hdc).

Rnd 3: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. (30 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) around. (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) around. (50 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) around. (60 hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts) around. (70 hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts) around. (80 hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts) around. (90 hdc)

Rnd 10-11: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (90 hdc). Fasten off A and join B with sl st.

Rnd 12: Now working with color B, *sc in next st. Puff st in next st. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off B and join A with a sl st.

Rnd 13-16: Now working with color A, ch 2. Hdc in each st around. Join. (90 hdc).

Rep Rnds 12-16 three times more, for a total of 31 rnds.

Rnd 32: Ch 2, hdc in next 7 sts. Ch 15, sk 15 hdc, hdc in next 30 hdc. Ch 15, sk 15 hdc, hdc in remaining 23 hdc. Join with sl st to beg hdc. Fasten off A and join B.

Rnd 32: Sc in next 7 hdc. Sc in next 15 ch. Sc in next 30 hdc. Sc in remaining 27 hdc. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all my other FREE patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns, tutorials, and more, sign up for my email list below!

— Rachel

© 2020 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Winterberry Basket—Free Christmas Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Some people love big purses, but I happen to be a tiny-purse kind of gal. My stuff gets lost easily enough in a small purse—I don’t know how I would ever manage with a bigger one!

While we were on our big tour of the East Coast this summer, I knew I wanted to something small and light for my wallet and a few other necessities—so I designed this purse! (Literally, I made most of it on the plane)

I used it throughout our three-week trip, and it held up really well!

The Yarn

The yarn I used for this purse is Lion Brand Flikka. This yarn was so much fun to work with. I loved how the colors made a neat pattern as I worked.

It is a worsted weight cotton, so it has a good amount of durability. My handbag held up well even after 3 weeks of heavy use!

Get Lion Brand Flikka for yourself HERE.

Now for the pattern!

Woodland Tote

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards HERE
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE
• Buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern on Etsy HERE

  MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Flikka Yarn
• G Hook (or a size that gives you a tight tension. You don’t want the bag to be super loose)
• Yarn needle

NOTES:

1. Bag is made from the bottom up and is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds unless otherwise specified.

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch — sl st

Single Crochet — sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round — rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

MEASUREMENTS:

When laid out flat, from base to top edge: approximately 8″

Width at widest point: 6 1/2″

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc) Place marker in last stitch, and move up at the end of each round.

Rnd 3: *Sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: *Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around (48 sc)

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (54 sc)

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (60 sc)

Rnds 11-34: sc in each sc around. (60 sc). At the end of rnd 34, JOIN with a sl st to first sc in that rnd.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in next st. Ch 1. *Sk next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Ch 1. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 36: Ch 1 (counts as sc) sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. (60 sc). Join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

Rnd 37: Ch 1, work the crab stitch (backward single crochet) around. For a tutorial on the crab stitch, click here. Do not fasten off.

Strap

Ch 130 (or ch to desired strap length). I made my chain slightly shorter than I wanted the strap to be, since it did stretch a couple inches after use.

Being careful not to twist ch, sl st to the opposite side of the bag. Turn.

Last row: Sl st across all ch. Do one last sl st to the edge of the bag to secure. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If desired, weave an extra piece of yarn through the open holes in the double-crochet round as a drawstring.

\

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Woodland Tote—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

And while we will probably never be able to create the exact same look and texture in crocheting, we CAN come close. Let me show you how to crochet the woven stitch—a stitch that looks very much like knitting!

Disclosure: this post may contain affiliate links. 

How to Crochet the Woven Stitch

Let me start off and tell you that this stitch is super close to a regular single-crochet. Don’t be scared off—it’s really easy. The ONLY difference is where you put your hook. Seriously. A simple change of where you start creates a whole different look in the fabric. Cool, right?

So let’s get started!

• Pin this tutorial to your Pinterest boards HERE
• Ask a question about this tutorial HERE
• To view ALL my tutorials, click HERE
• To buy the same yarn I am using, click HERE

Step 1:

The woven stitch will always start out with a regular row of single crochet. To practice this stitch, begin with a chain of any amount (probably around 10-20 stitches would be good). Then skip the first chain and single-crochet across the rest of the chain. Make sure you do not crochet this row too tightly, or the woven stitch will be more difficult. 

Step 2:

Now ch 1 and turn your work like you’re starting a new row (the ch does not count as a st.) Make another regular sc in the first stitch of the new row.

(Basically, you will have a regular sc on each end of your row, but the for the other stitches you will insert your hook a different way. See next step!)

Like this tutorial so far? Sign up for my email list to be the first to see new tutorials, FREE patterns, and more!

Step 3: How To Insert Your Hook

Okay, so now you’re ready to create your first “woven” stitch!

Here’s how it works: normally you would insert your hook into the top two loops of a stitch. However, with the woven stitch, you will insert your hook into the middle of the stitch.

If you look at a regular sc from the wrong side, there are 3 main parts of the stitch OTHER than the ones you would normally insert your hook into. There is the one horizontal bar, right underneath the top loops. And then there are the 2 vertical bars. It is in between those 2 vertical bars that you want to insert your hook

The picture below shows some little white arrows pointing to this exact place!

Here is a picture showing what the hook looks like when inserted:

Now, simply complete a regular single-crochet! Yarn over and pull through the stitch.

By the way—the yarn I’m using here is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta. This yarn is truly soft and wonderful to work with! Get some for yourself HERE. 

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

Then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops on hook.

Repeat Step 3 all across your row, until you get to the last stitch.

For the last stitch, work another regular sc in the top loops. The two normal sc keep the edges neat.

One Last Tip:

Remember how I said at the very beginning to make sure your first row of sc isn’t too tight? Well, tension is definitely something important for this stitch, because if you crochet too tightly, it will be impossible to make your hook fit through those two vertical bars. This applies for all rows. If you’re having trouble inserting your hook, try making the first loop you pull up a bit looser. This will make the two vertical bars looser, thus allowing for smoother entry of the hook.

That’s really all there is to it! When you crochet the woven stitch over many rows, it creates an effect very similar to knitting. Personally, I like using it way better than regular single-crochet.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! To view all of my tutorials, click HERE.

The post How to Crochet the Woven Stitch (Looks Like Knitting!) appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can read my introduction to this series HERE. Or view the first three patterns in the series HERE.)

Believe it or not, we almost didn’t come to Niagara Falls. At first, it was decided it was too far away from our other stops in New York City, Washington D.C., and Pennsylvania.

Want to see lots more patterns like this? My email list subscribers are the first to see new patterns!

However, it seemed too amazing of a sight to miss when we were so close (an 11 hour drive!)

It took some major changes of plans, and the loss of some money due to cancellations…but here we are! And it has been SO worth it! See one of my favorite views below:

Unfortunately you can’t get good views without a fence, unless you’re getting wet! We did do the Maid of the Mist boat tour, which was spectacular! We got right up close to the falls. However, we were wearing giant rain ponchos to keep from getting soaked, so definitely no pictures there.

The Yarn

So, the yarn I used for this cardigan is Creative Ewe Bamboodles. This is a bouncy, drapey summer yarn from Creative Ewe.

I loved working with this yarn. It’s extremely soft, and it has a certain sheen to it I’ve never seen before with plant-based fibers. It’s a bamboo-cotton mix, making it perfect for summer.

I used the colorway Blueberry, but there are tons of beautiful colors to choose from!

Get Bamboodles for yourself HERE!

Other Patterns in the Travel Series:

1. New York Sign / 2. Liberty Bell / 3. D.C. Roses       

All right, I bet you’re ready for the pattern! And I’m so ready to share it…so here it is!

Niagara Cardigan

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free version of this pattern, click HERE

• Materials:

• Creative Ewe Bamboodles, 4 skeins. Or approximately 800 yards of similar yarn (Bamboodles is a sport weight yarn, but I would say it is one the lighter side. You could also use a heavier fingering weight. Please note, however, that substituting yarn may change the drape and fit of the garment. I highly recommend Bamboodles!)
• G Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Notes:

1. Cardigan is made out of 2 rectangles seamed together on the back and the sides.
2. Beginning Ch 3 always counts as a double crochet.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Sizing:

Small: to fit Bust size 30-33″

This cardigan is only available in a size small. I may put it in larger sizes in the future (if there is interest. If you would like to see it in larger sizes, please let me know! Your feedback is appreciated).

The cardigan is, however, very easy to adjust. Follow instructions below.

To make cardigan bigger:

Width: add to the foundation rows of the panels in multiples of 3.

Length: simply add more rows to each panel.

For reference, model is 5′ 3″ with a bust of 30″.

Measurements:

1 Panel, before blocking: 38″ long, 10″ wide

Panels will stretch at least a couple inches once blocked.

Gauge:

6 shells and 8 rows = 4″

Instructions:

Panel (make 2)

Fsc 48 (or a multiple of 3)

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Rows 3-75: Repeat row 2.For a longer or shorter cardigan, simply add/subtract rows here. However, note that, once blocked, the cardigan will be slightly bigger.

Finishing:

Lay rectangles out next to each other and sew up halfway.

With Right Sides facing, Fold the rectangles in half and sew up the sides, leaving a 7-8″ space for the armholes.

Lastly, weave in ends and block your cardigan. To review the different blocking methods, click here. I used wet blocking for this piece.

That’s all there is to it! Throw your cardigan over your shoulders and go rock it at Niagara Falls!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE.

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Niagara Cardigan—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can view all the posts so far HERE. Or view the the previous pattern, from New York, HERE.)

Yesterday we left New York for good and went on our way to Philadelphia. We spent all of Monday touring the city, and then made our way to the place we’re staying (which is actually out of the city). It is absolutely beautiful here—so green and luscious. If you want to view even more pictures, make sure and follow me on Instagram! I post lots of fun pictures in my stories.

Anyway…so I crocheted a mini Liberty Bell, and here I am holding it in front of the REAL Liberty Bell. So exciting!

Besides going to the Liberty Bell, we also went on a tour of Independence Hall, where we got to see some neat History.  We saw the very room where America’s Founding Fathers signed the Declaration of Independence, as well as the room where the first U.S. Congress met.

The Yarn

All right, before getting to the Bell pattern, let’s talk about the yarn. I used sport-weight yarn from Knit Picks— called Wool of the Andes Sport. I find this yarn to be perfect for little projects like this bell. It’s affordable, and comes in lots of amazing colors.

Click HERE to buy some for yourself!

By the way, pretty much any sport weight yarn would work for this pattern. You could also use a heavier yarn, but your bell would obviously turn out much bigger.

Crochet Liberty Bell

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE.
• The PDF version of this pattern will become available after I get home from the East Coast!

Materials:

• Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Sport (or any sport weight yarn)
• F/3.75mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn needle

Instructions

Bottom of the Bell

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc)

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: sc in the back loop of each sc around. (18 sc)

Rnd 5-7: sc in each sc around. (18 sc)

Rnd 8-9: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (24 sc after Rnd 8. 32 sc after Rnd 9)

Rnd 10-11: sc in each st around. (32 sc) Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Turn the bell with the WRONG side facing out. It just looks more like the Liberty Bell this way!

Top of Bell

Ch 11.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each sc across. Turn. (10 sc)

Row 2: ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sc in each sc across. Turn.

Row 3: ch 1, sc in next 2 sc. TURN.

Row 4-5: repeat row 3. Fasten off.

Join yarn on the other end of Row 2. Then repeat rows 3-5.

You should have 6 sc left in the middle of Row 2. Join yarn in the 4th sc over. Then sc in the middle 2 sc. Fasten Off, leaving a long tail for sewing the top to the bottom. Weave in all other ends.

Here is what the top should look like!

Finishing:

1. Block the top piece. I promise, blocking is not scary. It’s very easy. To read about the 3 different methods, click here. Blocking the top of your bell will stop it from curling. It will make it firm so it’s not flopping around once you sew it on the bottom.

2. After blocking, simply sew the top onto the bottom. Attach the middle 2 sc of the top to the 1st round of the bottom.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Mini Liberty Bell – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Why You Should Use Charts

Ready to find out why you should learn charts? Read on to find out why they are helpful, and then follow the tutorial that will help you understand them in no time! TRUST ME—they are really not that hard!

1. Charts Help You Visualize

That’s right. Charts can help you see what the finished result of the pattern will be. I know you’re probably thinking that that’s what pictures are for. Many times, however, it is harder to see the exact stitches in a picture. Charts give you a detailed representation of all the stitches you’ll be using for the pattern.

2. Charts Confirm the Written Pattern

There’s another benefit to using charts. Written patterns are really easy to mess up. Sometimes there will be flat out errors I’ll find in the patterns I make. Other times it is simply an issue of clarity—for example, the wording might be confusing. However, with that chart by your side, you can confirm and clarify exactly what the written pattern is trying to say.

3. Charts Help You Design

For all you designers out there—you know how sometimes you’ll have an idea for a pattern in your head, but you’re not sure if it will work?

Enter charts, once again. Before you start crocheting, try making a chart to visualize your idea. It has saved me a ton of time when I make the chart before starting.

By the way, designers, side note: if you’re wondering how to make your own charts, I use a software called Crochet Charts by Stitchworks Software. It is completely free, and it has a ton of stitches already built in. All you have to do is arrange them for your design!

How To Read Crochet Charts/Diagrams

Ready to dive into learning charts? Trust me, you will not regret this! Charts are one technique that every crocheter should know.

• To save this tutorial to your Pinterest boards, click here
• To ask a question about this tutorial, click here

Crochet Chart Symbols

Simply put, crochet charts are are a symbol representing a stitch. That’s it. They are simply a visual representation of the actual crochet pattern. Learning the symbols is just like learning the abbreviations in a written pattern. Trust me—it is NOT hard.

To make it even easier, each symbol actually LOOKS like the stitch it represents! Let’s look at some of the basic symbols below.

Basic Stitches

Chains

The symbols below show a series of 4 chains. So if you saw this on a chart, it would be the written equivalent of “Ch 4.” Not too hard, right?

Single Crochet

Here is a symbol for a single crochet. See how it is small and looks similar to the regular sc stitch?

Now lets see these two stitches combined—how they would actually look in a chart.

Can you guess how the chart below would be written out? It would be something like this: “Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch.”

See, I told you this wouldn’t be hard! It’s just a matter of knowing which symbol goes with which stitch. Now let me show you the next stitches up.

Below, from left to right, we have: half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), triple crochet (tr), and double triple (dtr). Now: do not get scared on me here. This is still easy, trust me.

You’re probably thinking that its easy to tell which one is which when they’re stacked next to each other like that—but in a chart, it’s a whole different story! Don’t worry! There are actually 2 easy ways to tell them apart.

First, their height. Obviously, the hdc is the smallest, and dtr in tallest.

Second: see those little notches in the center of each stitch? They’re the key to all this! They stand for how many yarn overs are in the stitch. When you make a dc stitch, you yarn over once. Tr, you yarn over twice. Dtr, 3 times. In a sense, this is actually EASIER than a written pattern! All you have to do is look at those notches.

Now, you’ve probably noticed that the hdc is the exception to this rule. It has no notch, but you still yarn over once. You’ll just have to get used to that one—but for all the others, the notches are the key!

Like this article so far? Subscribe to my email list to be the first to see crochet patterns, tutorials, and more!

Combining Simple Stitches

Now you now the basics of reading charts.You know the symbols for regular stitches. The next step is to learn how these symbols are combined! Don’t worry, it doesn’t get harder from here. Most symbols that would be considered “hard” are just a combination of the simple stitches you learned above!

Look at the picture below. On the far left, we have stitch that would read: ch 3, 3 dc in one st.

The next symbol is a 5 dc shell, worked simply by doing 5 dc in one stitch. The third one is another type of shell. It is worked by doing 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in one stitch.

Lastly, we have a 3 dc cluster. Here’s how this one is worked: *YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. Rep from * 2 times. Pull through last 4 loops on hook.

The cluster is probably the hardest stitch we’ve looked at so far. But even that is not due to the symbol itself, but just because the stitch is a little more difficult!

There are a lot more symbols out there—but whenever you do a pattern, it will explain all of its symbols. It’s not like you’ll just be left to figure them out on your own. If you’d like, you can check out the Craft Yarn Council’s chart guide. They have a helpful list of symbols you can refer to, and a link to download it as a PDF.

And remember, if a pattern uses a symbol that’s not in this list, they will probably include instructions for completing it. So there is no reason to fear! You can do this!

Think you’re ready to try a pattern that uses a chart? My Royalty Scarf Pattern is completely free, and it has a full chart to accompany the written pattern! Click here to try this pattern!

Crochet Chart Software

Maybe you already know about reading crochet charts, but you want to make your own now. There are not a lot of crochet chart softwares out there, but there are thankfully a few.

Here are the two I recommend:

1. Stitch Works Software. This is great if you need to make charts with a LOT of different symbols. It is also a program that downloads directly to your computer, so you can work offline.
2. Stitch Fiddle. This one is great specifically for color work diagrams. It is still good for charts like shown in this article, but it doesn’t have as many stitch diagrams.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more inspiration!

Subscribe to my email list to get FREE patterns to your inbox!

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Read Crochet Charts appeared first on .

If that’s you, I am here to tell you that you CAN make lace. Trust me. If you can do basic stitches—chains and double crochets—you can make lace. Many people think that only experienced crocheters can do lace. However, crochet lace is actually very easy to make! Don’t believe me? Keep reading to learn about four types of crochet lace for beginners!

Crochet lace is probably my favorite thing to make. There are so many variations, and all of them are just so pretty! When I was asked to do a guest blog post for Janne from Joy of Motion Crochet, I knew instantly that I wanted to do it on lace. Like I said before, crochet lace is perfect for beginners. Most types are made from simple stitches like double crochets and chains.

If you are completely new to lace, check out the guest blog post I did on Joy of Motion Crochet, How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. There, I will give you some more info on lace.

If you are already familiar with lace, that post is for you as well, as I also give some tips on learning to design your own crochet lace. Janne has an amazing site, and I would love for you to check it out!

Crochet Lace for Beginners

• To pin this post to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To get an ebook of 13 lace stitch patterns, click HERE

In this post I want to show you the stitch patterns for the swatches I did in How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. Like I said before, these are very easy to make. If you practice making these swatches, it should give you a great handle on lace. Then you can start applying your new knowledge by trying a lace pattern!

Materials:

I used the same materials for all four swatches:

• Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn
• F (3.75mm) crochet hook
• Blocking Materials

Notes:

You could easily use ANY yarn for these swatches. However, if you are looking for a fingering yarn at a decent price, I would definitely recommend Knit Picks Stroll. It is soft, it blocks well, and it comes in a variety of colors.

As far as blocking goes: while it is not necessary, I would highly recommend it. If you don’t know how to block, learn how here.You won’t regret it, trust me! Blocking is one of the most worthwhile techniques you can learn.

About the swatches: I will tell you to start each one using foundation single crochet. This is my preference, and I recommend using this stitch. However, it is not necessary; you can start with a chain stitch if you would rather. Simply follow the included instructions for how many chains you will need, and then do a single crochet row on top of the chains.

Swatch #1: Basic Shells

Now to the lace! This swatch is just about as easy at it gets! The shells are simply made using double crochets stitches. Not too scary, right?

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (learn fsc here!) Or if you would rather start with a chain, do a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Related Posts

• Easy Crochet Lace Cardigan with FULLY ADJUSTABLE Sizing
• How to Crochet the Stacked Shell Stitch
• Easy Lace Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern
• How to Crochet the Eiffel Tower Stitch

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in the swatch below). Like I said before, you could easily make this into a scarf by repeating row 1 until the piece is longer.

Do you believe me now? This crochet lace is for beginners! Anyone who can crochet can make this.

Like these patterns so far? I bet you’ll love my ebook of 13 OTHER lace stitch patterns (that use simple stitches just like these! Grab the ebook here.

Swatch #2: V Shells

This shell, also known as a v-stitch, is definitely a must-know. It is incorporated into many types of lace. (For more info on these stitches, don’t forget to read the post on Joy of Motion Crochet!)

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp of shell from previous row. Rep from * across all ch-spaces. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in my swatch).

Swatch #3: Twisted Stitches

I absolutely love the look of twisted stitches. For one thing, they look similar certain types of knitting. At the same time, they are also really fun to make. Once you get the hang of them, you easily get in a great rhythm.

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 2 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 4, tr in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, tr in next fsc. Working behind tr just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in next tr. *Sk next tr, tr in next tr. Working behind st just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 6 rows in the swatch).

TUTORIAL For One Twisted Stitch:

Swatch 4: Pineapple Lace

Out of all lace, pineapple is a classic that I will never grow tired of. I love incorporating pineapples into my designs. Even though it looks complicated, don’t let that scare you off. Pineapples are made of basic stitches.

Instructions:

Fsc 13 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need to ch 14, and then do a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next 2 fsc. Sk 3 fsc, 9 dc in next fsc. Sk 3 fsc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 4 times. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times. Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 2 times. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

You May Also Like 

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next 2 ch-4 spaces. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. 9 dc in next ch-4 sp. Dc in last 3 dc.

Repeat rows 2-8 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 14 rows in the swatch below). If you kept repeating this, it would make a great kid’s scarf!

If you are new to lace, I would encourage you to practice with these swatches! Start with the easiest one, and work your way up. Once you’re familiar with the way lace works, try a pattern! Don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone a little bit and try something new. I guarantee you won’t regret it! If you’re ready to try designing your OWN lace, don’t forget to check out the follow up post on Joy of Motion Crochet!

If you want to venture even further into lace, I have a special offer for you, like I mentioned earlier!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

The post 4 Types of Crochet Lace For Beginners appeared first on .

Let me just tell you right now: that is NOT true. It IS possible to block acrylic! It requires a bit of a different method than natural fibers, but it turns out every bit as good. And actually, its pretty fun to do.

Trust me. I have done this personally, and it works. Curious? Read on to find out how.

You can block your acrylic projects using an AMAZING technique called Steam Blocking. This method uses steam to “iron” out your stitches and force them to lay flat, without actually touching the yarn.

It is actually pretty fun to watch this in action!

In fact, if you want to see me explain the steps in 30 seconds, watch my new video tutorial below! Or, keep scrolling to learn the 4 easy steps to blocking acrylic yarn.

Like this video? Make sure to come subscribe to my YouTube channel for more!

Back to the topic at hand – the reason people can be wary of this method is because if you touch the iron to your project, you can actually melt the yarn. This is often called “killing” your project, and it is essentially because acrylic yarn is made out of plastic. I know it sounds scary—but trust me, it is very easily avoidable. I have done this many times with regular household supplies, and I’ve never had any problem.

Softening Acrylic Yarn

In addition to blocking NOT being a bad thing…on the flip side it is actually a very GOOD thing!

Here are the benefits to blocking your projects like I’m about to show you:

1. You’ll be able to soften the acrylic yarn. The steam causes the yarn to relax and it usually ends up MUCH softer. (Yes, red heart super saver included!!)

2. Your project will open up and be so beautiful. In the case of the shawl in the video above, the lacy section in the middle looked SO much better after it was blocked.

Steam Blocking Acrylic Projects

 Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking boards. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like lace), you will definitely want to pin it down. However, with some projects pinning isn’t necessary. If your project isn’t lace, you shouldn’t need to pin it down. If it is made out of a heavier weight yarn, like worsted weight, you also probably don’t need to pin.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting. Like I said before, the yarn will melt if it touches the iron. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And that is all there is to blocking acrylic! Once you try this method, you will never go back! It it so fun to watch the steam envelope the stitches…and then pull your project up and find it perfectly blocked!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

To find out about ALL blocking methods, visit this post. To view all my free patterns, click here.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Block Acrylic Without Killing Your Project appeared first on .

I don’t want that to happen to you!

Maybe you feel like foundation single crochet is too hard, that you’ll never get the hang of it. This is a common feeling, and I understand! I was right there with you. However, when I did finally find this stitch, it became my go-to. I hardly ever start a pattern with chains now. Let me show you how fsc can be a help, rather than a hassle. First, I will tell you what exactly foundation single crochet is, and why I like it. Then, I will provide you with a detailed tutorial, perfect for beginners, that should get you using this new stitch right away!

Foundation Single Crochet—What it is

Below you can see a picture of a small row of foundation single crochet. So what is this stitch? Basically, it is a chain row and a single crochet row combined. Instead of forming a chain row first, and then adding sc on top of it, you do them both at the same time. Intriguing? Keep reading to find out why I like this stitch so much.

Why You Should Use Foundation Single Crochet

You will always hear crocheters debate the use of foundation single crochet. Some say it is worthless—stick with tradition, and do a normal chain stitch. However, others say fsc is actually a useful new crochet technique that we should most definitely take advantage of. So who’s right?

I’ll be honest—I tend to side with those who are for foundation single crochet. In fact, I love fsc as a starting row. Here’s why:

1. It gets your chain row and single crochet row done all at once

Does anyone else out there hate that first row after the chain as much as I do? I don’t know about you, but it’s always a huge relief to me when I’m on to the regular stitch pattern. A chain is just SO annoying to stick a hook into! However, like I said earlier, foundation single crochet eliminates that pain. Your normal chain stitch and single crochet stitch is combined into one row. With each stitch, you create a chain and a sc at the same time. Let me tell you—it’s wonderful!

2. It is extra stretchy

Another annoying thing about chains is that they tend to be tight. Even if you try really hard to work them loosely, they end up tighter than the rest of the pattern. In garments, this is especially annoying. If the neck is started with a chain row, it can be hard to fit over your head. Even in a scarf, you will see this. The first row will be very tight, and then the rest of the scarf will be slightly larger than the rest. So annoying. However, (I bet you can guess what I’m going to say…) foundation single crochet is super stretchy! It solves a problem that a chain stitch cannot solve.

3. Lots of “Big” Designers use it

Don’t just take my advice—I’m not the only one who loves fsc! I’ve done a lot of patterns from designers like Doris Chan and Robyn Chachula, who have their work published in Interweave Crochet Magazine, their own books, etc. And let me tell you—they almost always use foundation single crochet as a starting point.

Are you convinced yet? Trust me, once you get the hang of this foundation stitch, you won’t want to go back! It may take some getting used to, but I know you can do it. So grab a hook and lets get started!

More Stitch Tutorials:

• Suzette Stitch
• Trinity Stitch
• Alpine Stitch
• Crunch Stitch

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Let’s get into the details of how to crochet the foundation single crochet stitch! View the video tutorial below, or keep reading for step by step instructions.

Step 1:

Ch 2.

Step 2:

Pull up a loop in second ch from hook.

Step 3:

Yo, pull through one loop. (This step forms the “ch” of the fsc row),

You may also Like

1/ Adalyn Pullover 2/ Moonbeam Baskets 3/ Pansy Stitch Pattern

Step 4:

Yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

You have now finished your very first fsc!

Now, you will see the hook pointing to a space below. That is the “ch” of the fsc stitch. It is the loop you will insert your hook into for the next step.

Step 5:

Yo, pull up a loop in the “ch” space of the first fsc stitch.

Step 6:

Now it is basically the same as the first fsc stitch! YO, pull through one loop.

Step 7:

YO, pull through last 2 loops.

And there are your first two foundation single crochet stitches! Pretty neat, huh? Now all you have to do is repeat steps 5-7 for as many fsc as you want!

Here is my row of fsc. As you can see, I have done my chain and single crochet row all at once.

In this picture, you can see the tops of the sc—it looks exactly like a normal row!

That’s all there is to it! As you keep practicing this stitch, it will get easier and easier. Don’t give up, even if it’s a struggle at first. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Related Tutorial: Learn how to block your crochet projects!

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

The post Beginner’s Guide to Foundation Single Crochet appeared first on .