If you’re like me, you probably have good intentions about making Christmas gifts for everyone you know…but in reality, that might not happen.

However, if you’re reading this post now looking for Christmas patterns, you have a pretty good start on things! This basket does not take long to make, so you’ll definitely come out ahead when you’re done.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.

The yarn I used for this pattern is the classic Red Heart Super Saver. Any worsted weight yarn should do fine with this basket, but super saver is a bit of a staple for me, haha—and especially for items around the house like this!

If you are interested in an ad-free, easy to print version of this pattern, it can be found HERE. A big thank you to everyone who decides to purchase—I wish I could show you the big smile on my face every time I see a sale come through!

Other Christmas Crochet Patterns:

• Ultimate list of 30+ Christmas Patterns for Gifting
• Christmas Star Ornaments
• Quick, Classic Ornaments

Winterberry Basket – Free Crochet Pattern

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE

Materials:

• Red Heart Super Saver, in 2 colors (white will be labeled as color A, and red as color B)

• H/8 Crochet Hook

• Yarn needle

Finished Measurements:

Diameter across bottom: 9.5”

Height: 10”

Notes:

Chain 2 at the beginning of each round NEVER counts as a stitch! This ch 2 is there simply to eliminate a hole in the joining area.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Special Stitch:

Puff stitch (puff st): YO, insert hook in indicated stitch. YO, pull up loop. Rep from * 3 times more. YO, pull through all 9 loops on hook.

Instructions:

Ch 3.

Rnd 1: 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to first hdc (the chain does NOT count as a hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in ea st around (20 hdc).

Rnd 3: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. (30 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) around. (40 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) around. (50 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) around. (60 hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts) around. (70 hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts) around. (80 hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts) around. (90 hdc)

Rnd 10-11: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join. (90 hdc). Fasten off A and join B with sl st.

Rnd 12: Now working with color B, *sc in next st. Puff st in next st. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to first sc. Fasten off B and join A with a sl st.

Rnd 13-16: Now working with color A, ch 2. Hdc in each st around. Join. (90 hdc).

Rep Rnds 12-16 three times more, for a total of 31 rnds.

Rnd 32: Ch 2, hdc in next 7 sts. Ch 15, sk 15 hdc, hdc in next 30 hdc. Ch 15, sk 15 hdc, hdc in remaining 23 hdc. Join with sl st to beg hdc. Fasten off A and join B.

Rnd 32: Sc in next 7 hdc. Sc in next 15 ch. Sc in next 30 hdc. Sc in remaining 27 hdc. Join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all my other FREE patterns, click HERE. If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns, tutorials, and more, sign up for my email list below!

— Rachel

© 2020 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Winterberry Basket—Free Christmas Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Disclosure. This post may contain affiliate links.

One thing I love about these baskets is how quickly they work up. I finished one in an afternoon! They are also easy to make while watching Netflix.

Moonbeam Basket Yarn

I used super bulky yarn for this pattern (in the number 6 category). The specific yarn I used is Cascade Lana Grande. However, any super bulky yarn would work!

Ready to jump in on this quick project?

Moonbeam Baskets

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To buy the inexpensive ad-free PDF version of this pattern, click HERE

Materials:

• Cascade Yarns Lana Grande, 1 ball per basket. Or approximately 90 yards super bulky weight yarn per basket.

• K (6.5mm) Hook

Finished Measurements:

Diameter across bottom: 6.5”

Height: 5”

Notes:

1. The first part of the basket is worked in continuous rounds of single crochet. Then the work is joined and continued in textured stitches.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Instructions:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around (12 sc) Place marker in last st and move up at the end of each rnd.

(want this pattern without ads? Click here for the PDF version. Your purchase helps support my small business!)

Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: (Sc in next st 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (48 sc)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to first sc. (48 sc)

Rnd 10: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in next st. *Sk 1 st, sc in next st. Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Rnd 11: Ch 1 (does NOT count as hdc), 3 hdc in same st as sl st. Sk 1 st, sc in next st. *Sk 1 st, 3 hdc in sc. Sk 1 st, sc in next st. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to beg hdc. Sl st in next hdc.

Rnds 12-15: Rep rnds 10-11.

Rnd 16: Rep rnd 10 once more.

Rnd 17: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in ea st around (48 sc)

Rnd 18: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in next  3 sc. Ch 12, sk next 9 sc, sc in next sc. Sc in the remaining 35 sc. Join with sl st to first sc.  

Rnd 19: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in next 3 sc. Sc in next 12 ch (handle made). Sc in remaining 35 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all my other FREE patterns, click HERE. If you want to get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up below!

Happy crocheting!

The post Moonbeam Baskets—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Some people love big purses, but I happen to be a tiny-purse kind of gal. My stuff gets lost easily enough in a small purse—I don’t know how I would ever manage with a bigger one!

While we were on our big tour of the East Coast this summer, I knew I wanted to something small and light for my wallet and a few other necessities—so I designed this purse! (Literally, I made most of it on the plane)

I used it throughout our three-week trip, and it held up really well!

The Yarn

The yarn I used for this purse is Lion Brand Flikka. This yarn was so much fun to work with. I loved how the colors made a neat pattern as I worked.

It is a worsted weight cotton, so it has a good amount of durability. My handbag held up well even after 3 weeks of heavy use!

Get Lion Brand Flikka for yourself HERE.

Now for the pattern!

Woodland Tote

BY DESERT BLOSSOM CRAFTS

• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards HERE
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue HERE
• Buy the inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern on Etsy HERE

  MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Flikka Yarn
• G Hook (or a size that gives you a tight tension. You don’t want the bag to be super loose)
• Yarn needle

NOTES:

1. Bag is made from the bottom up and is worked in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds unless otherwise specified.

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch — sl st

Single Crochet — sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round — rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Free Crochet Patterns I Love (and you should too!)

1. Niagara Cardigan / 2. New York Sign / 3. Wave shawl

MEASUREMENTS:

When laid out flat, from base to top edge: approximately 8″

Width at widest point: 6 1/2″

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc) Place marker in last stitch, and move up at the end of each round.

Rnd 3: *Sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (30 sc)

Rnd 6: *Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (36 sc)

Rnd 7: *Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (42 sc)

Rnd 8: *Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around (48 sc)

Rnd 9: *Sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (54 sc)

Rnd 10: *Sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. (60 sc)

Rnds 11-34: sc in each sc around. (60 sc). At the end of rnd 34, JOIN with a sl st to first sc in that rnd.

Rnd 35: Ch 3 (counts as dc) dc in next st. Ch 1. *Sk next st, Dc in next 2 sts. Ch 1. Rep from * around. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 36: Ch 1 (counts as sc) sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. (60 sc). Join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

Rnd 37: Ch 1, work the crab stitch (backward single crochet) around. For a tutorial on the crab stitch, click here. Do not fasten off.

Strap

Ch 130 (or ch to desired strap length). I made my chain slightly shorter than I wanted the strap to be, since it did stretch a couple inches after use.

Being careful not to twist ch, sl st to the opposite side of the bag. Turn.

Last row: Sl st across all ch. Do one last sl st to the edge of the bag to secure. Fasten off and weave in ends.

If desired, weave an extra piece of yarn through the open holes in the double-crochet round as a drawstring.

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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. 

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel 

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post Woodland Tote—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

(Have you heard about this series of patterns yet? I’m doing a special group of themed patterns while my family is on the East Coast of the U.S. You can read my introduction to this series HERE. Or view the first three patterns in the series HERE.)

Believe it or not, we almost didn’t come to Niagara Falls. At first, it was decided it was too far away from our other stops in New York City, Washington D.C., and Pennsylvania.

Want to see lots more patterns like this? My email list subscribers are the first to see new patterns!

However, it seemed too amazing of a sight to miss when we were so close (an 11 hour drive!)

It took some major changes of plans, and the loss of some money due to cancellations…but here we are! And it has been SO worth it! See one of my favorite views below:

Unfortunately you can’t get good views without a fence, unless you’re getting wet! We did do the Maid of the Mist boat tour, which was spectacular! We got right up close to the falls. However, we were wearing giant rain ponchos to keep from getting soaked, so definitely no pictures there.

The Yarn

So, the yarn I used for this cardigan is Creative Ewe Bamboodles. This is a bouncy, drapey summer yarn from Creative Ewe.

I loved working with this yarn. It’s extremely soft, and it has a certain sheen to it I’ve never seen before with plant-based fibers. It’s a bamboo-cotton mix, making it perfect for summer.

I used the colorway Blueberry, but there are tons of beautiful colors to choose from!

Get Bamboodles for yourself HERE!

Other Patterns in the Travel Series:

1. New York Sign / 2. Liberty Bell / 3. D.C. Roses       

All right, I bet you’re ready for the pattern! And I’m so ready to share it…so here it is!

Niagara Cardigan

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To buy the inexpensive Ad-free version of this pattern, click HERE

• Materials:

• Creative Ewe Bamboodles, 4 skeins. Or approximately 800 yards of similar yarn (Bamboodles is a sport weight yarn, but I would say it is one the lighter side. You could also use a heavier fingering weight. Please note, however, that substituting yarn may change the drape and fit of the garment. I highly recommend Bamboodles!)
• G Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

Notes:

1. Cardigan is made out of 2 rectangles seamed together on the back and the sides.
2. Beginning Ch 3 always counts as a double crochet.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Sizing:

Small: to fit Bust size 30-33″

This cardigan is only available in a size small. I may put it in larger sizes in the future (if there is interest. If you would like to see it in larger sizes, please let me know! Your feedback is appreciated).

The cardigan is, however, very easy to adjust. Follow instructions below.

To make cardigan bigger:

Width: add to the foundation rows of the panels in multiples of 3.

Length: simply add more rows to each panel.

For reference, model is 5′ 3″ with a bust of 30″.

Measurements:

1 Panel, before blocking: 38″ long, 10″ wide

Panels will stretch at least a couple inches once blocked.

Gauge:

6 shells and 8 rows = 4″

Instructions:

Panel (make 2)

Fsc 48 (or a multiple of 3)

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout) dc in each fsc across.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Rows 3-75: Repeat row 2.For a longer or shorter cardigan, simply add/subtract rows here. However, note that, once blocked, the cardigan will be slightly bigger.

Finishing:

Lay rectangles out next to each other and sew up halfway.

With Right Sides facing, Fold the rectangles in half and sew up the sides, leaving a 7-8″ space for the armholes.

Lastly, weave in ends and block your cardigan. To review the different blocking methods, click here. I used wet blocking for this piece.

That’s all there is to it! Throw your cardigan over your shoulders and go rock it at Niagara Falls!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE.

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Niagara Cardigan—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

I’ve provided 2 contrasting earring patterns: one in pastel colors, and one in bright colors. However, the possibilities are endless, so find a color combination that works for you!

Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links. As an amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

The yarn I used for these is Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread. This thread is so much fun. There are tons of beautiful colors that you can combine in so many different ways!

Now: don’t get scared off because these earrings are made from thread. I know it can be daunting for some people. And I’ll be honest—thread isn’t my favorite thing in the world either. However, thread is worst when you make a big project. These earrings are super quick and easy, so you will not have a problem using the thread to whip up the little motifs.

If you’ve never worked with thread before, I definitely recommend Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread. It is affordable, you can find it on amazon, and it comes in a ton of awesome colors!

More From Desert Blossom Crafts

• How to Make Bead Crochet Jewelry from a Simple Chain
• Alicia Ear Warmer – Free Crochet Pattern
• How to Block Your Crochet Projects
• Ultimate List of Round Crochet Patterns

Ready to make these cuties for yourself? They’re the perfect summer style!

Quick and Easy Crochet Earrings

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards for later, click here
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click here
• To buy the Ad-free, PDF version of this pattern  for, click here

Notes:

1. There is a different pattern for the pastel and the bright motif. After the instructions for each there will be instructions for finishing both at the end.
2. Both patterns are worked in the round, joining at the end of each round (unless otherwise specified)
3. For a comprehensive list of standard abbreviations, click here

Materials:

• Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread (size 10)
• 2.5mm crochet hook 
• Yarn needle

Finished Measurements:

Approximately 1 1/2” in diameter

Instructions:

Pastel Motif:

Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 1). (Dc in 5th ch from hook, ch 1) 9 times. Join with a sl st to 4rd ch of beg ch 5. Fasten Off.

Rnd 2: Join new color with a sl st in any dc. Ch 2 (counts as hdc.) Hdc in same dc. (hdc in next ch-sp, 2 hdc in next dc) 9 times. Hdc in last ch sp, join with sl st to beginning ch 2. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: Join new color with a sc in any hdc. Sc in each hdc around. Join with a sl st in first sc. Ch 5, sl st in same sc. (earring loop made). Sl st in next hdc, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Bright Motif

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Do not join.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Join new color with a sl st in any sc. Ch 1 (does not count as sc). (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) around, fasten off. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: Join new color with a sl st in any sc. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in same st. (Ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc) 8 times. Ch 1, sl st to beginning ch 3. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Join new color with a sc in any ch-sp. Sc in same ch-sp again, sc in next 2 dc. (2 sc in ch sp, sc in next 2 dc) around. Join with a sl st to first sc. Ch 5, sl st in same st (earhook loop made). Sl st in next sc, fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing for both motifs:

1. Block your finished motifs. I recommend using wet blocking. This will stiffen up the earrings so they hold their shape when you wear them! Find my tutorial on this here.
2. Attach an ear-hook. Open the bottom with pliers, then slide it through the 3rd ch of the ch-5 loop, and close.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. 

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest here
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post Quick and Easy Crochet Earrings Pattern appeared first on .

Why You Should Use Charts

Ready to find out why you should learn charts? Read on to find out why they are helpful, and then follow the tutorial that will help you understand them in no time! TRUST ME—they are really not that hard!

1. Charts Help You Visualize

That’s right. Charts can help you see what the finished result of the pattern will be. I know you’re probably thinking that that’s what pictures are for. Many times, however, it is harder to see the exact stitches in a picture. Charts give you a detailed representation of all the stitches you’ll be using for the pattern.

2. Charts Confirm the Written Pattern

There’s another benefit to using charts. Written patterns are really easy to mess up. Sometimes there will be flat out errors I’ll find in the patterns I make. Other times it is simply an issue of clarity—for example, the wording might be confusing. However, with that chart by your side, you can confirm and clarify exactly what the written pattern is trying to say.

3. Charts Help You Design

For all you designers out there—you know how sometimes you’ll have an idea for a pattern in your head, but you’re not sure if it will work?

Enter charts, once again. Before you start crocheting, try making a chart to visualize your idea. It has saved me a ton of time when I make the chart before starting.

By the way, designers, side note: if you’re wondering how to make your own charts, I use a software called Crochet Charts by Stitchworks Software. It is completely free, and it has a ton of stitches already built in. All you have to do is arrange them for your design!

How To Read Crochet Charts/Diagrams

Ready to dive into learning charts? Trust me, you will not regret this! Charts are one technique that every crocheter should know.

• To save this tutorial to your Pinterest boards, click here
• To ask a question about this tutorial, click here

Crochet Chart Symbols

Simply put, crochet charts are are a symbol representing a stitch. That’s it. They are simply a visual representation of the actual crochet pattern. Learning the symbols is just like learning the abbreviations in a written pattern. Trust me—it is NOT hard.

To make it even easier, each symbol actually LOOKS like the stitch it represents! Let’s look at some of the basic symbols below.

Basic Stitches

Chains

The symbols below show a series of 4 chains. So if you saw this on a chart, it would be the written equivalent of “Ch 4.” Not too hard, right?

Single Crochet

Here is a symbol for a single crochet. See how it is small and looks similar to the regular sc stitch?

Now lets see these two stitches combined—how they would actually look in a chart.

Can you guess how the chart below would be written out? It would be something like this: “Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch.”

See, I told you this wouldn’t be hard! It’s just a matter of knowing which symbol goes with which stitch. Now let me show you the next stitches up.

Below, from left to right, we have: half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), triple crochet (tr), and double triple (dtr). Now: do not get scared on me here. This is still easy, trust me.

You’re probably thinking that its easy to tell which one is which when they’re stacked next to each other like that—but in a chart, it’s a whole different story! Don’t worry! There are actually 2 easy ways to tell them apart.

First, their height. Obviously, the hdc is the smallest, and dtr in tallest.

Second: see those little notches in the center of each stitch? They’re the key to all this! They stand for how many yarn overs are in the stitch. When you make a dc stitch, you yarn over once. Tr, you yarn over twice. Dtr, 3 times. In a sense, this is actually EASIER than a written pattern! All you have to do is look at those notches.

Now, you’ve probably noticed that the hdc is the exception to this rule. It has no notch, but you still yarn over once. You’ll just have to get used to that one—but for all the others, the notches are the key!

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Combining Simple Stitches

Now you now the basics of reading charts.You know the symbols for regular stitches. The next step is to learn how these symbols are combined! Don’t worry, it doesn’t get harder from here. Most symbols that would be considered “hard” are just a combination of the simple stitches you learned above!

Look at the picture below. On the far left, we have stitch that would read: ch 3, 3 dc in one st.

The next symbol is a 5 dc shell, worked simply by doing 5 dc in one stitch. The third one is another type of shell. It is worked by doing 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc in one stitch.

Lastly, we have a 3 dc cluster. Here’s how this one is worked: *YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. Rep from * 2 times. Pull through last 4 loops on hook.

The cluster is probably the hardest stitch we’ve looked at so far. But even that is not due to the symbol itself, but just because the stitch is a little more difficult!

There are a lot more symbols out there—but whenever you do a pattern, it will explain all of its symbols. It’s not like you’ll just be left to figure them out on your own. If you’d like, you can check out the Craft Yarn Council’s chart guide. They have a helpful list of symbols you can refer to, and a link to download it as a PDF.

And remember, if a pattern uses a symbol that’s not in this list, they will probably include instructions for completing it. So there is no reason to fear! You can do this!

Think you’re ready to try a pattern that uses a chart? My Royalty Scarf Pattern is completely free, and it has a full chart to accompany the written pattern! Click here to try this pattern!

Crochet Chart Software

Maybe you already know about reading crochet charts, but you want to make your own now. There are not a lot of crochet chart softwares out there, but there are thankfully a few.

Here are the two I recommend:

1. Stitch Works Software. This is great if you need to make charts with a LOT of different symbols. It is also a program that downloads directly to your computer, so you can work offline.
2. Stitch Fiddle. This one is great specifically for color work diagrams. It is still good for charts like shown in this article, but it doesn’t have as many stitch diagrams.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more inspiration!

Subscribe to my email list to get FREE patterns to your inbox!

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Read Crochet Charts appeared first on .

If that’s you, I am here to tell you that you CAN make lace. Trust me. If you can do basic stitches—chains and double crochets—you can make lace. Many people think that only experienced crocheters can do lace. However, crochet lace is actually very easy to make! Don’t believe me? Keep reading to learn about four types of crochet lace for beginners!

Crochet lace is probably my favorite thing to make. There are so many variations, and all of them are just so pretty! When I was asked to do a guest blog post for Janne from Joy of Motion Crochet, I knew instantly that I wanted to do it on lace. Like I said before, crochet lace is perfect for beginners. Most types are made from simple stitches like double crochets and chains.

If you are completely new to lace, check out the guest blog post I did on Joy of Motion Crochet, How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. There, I will give you some more info on lace.

If you are already familiar with lace, that post is for you as well, as I also give some tips on learning to design your own crochet lace. Janne has an amazing site, and I would love for you to check it out!

Crochet Lace for Beginners

• To pin this post to your pinterest boards, click HERE
• To get an ebook of 13 lace stitch patterns, click HERE

In this post I want to show you the stitch patterns for the swatches I did in How to Make and Design Crochet Lace. Like I said before, these are very easy to make. If you practice making these swatches, it should give you a great handle on lace. Then you can start applying your new knowledge by trying a lace pattern!

Materials:

I used the same materials for all four swatches:

• Knit Picks Stroll Sock Yarn
• F (3.75mm) crochet hook
• Blocking Materials

Notes:

You could easily use ANY yarn for these swatches. However, if you are looking for a fingering yarn at a decent price, I would definitely recommend Knit Picks Stroll. It is soft, it blocks well, and it comes in a variety of colors.

As far as blocking goes: while it is not necessary, I would highly recommend it. If you don’t know how to block, learn how here.You won’t regret it, trust me! Blocking is one of the most worthwhile techniques you can learn.

About the swatches: I will tell you to start each one using foundation single crochet. This is my preference, and I recommend using this stitch. However, it is not necessary; you can start with a chain stitch if you would rather. Simply follow the included instructions for how many chains you will need, and then do a single crochet row on top of the chains.

Swatch #1: Basic Shells

Now to the lace! This swatch is just about as easy at it gets! The shells are simply made using double crochets stitches. Not too scary, right?

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (learn fsc here!) Or if you would rather start with a chain, do a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, 3 dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 fsc, dc in last two fsc. Turn.

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• Easy Lace Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern
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Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc. (Sk next 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc) until 3 sts left. Sk next dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in the swatch below). Like I said before, you could easily make this into a scarf by repeating row 1 until the piece is longer.

Do you believe me now? This crochet lace is for beginners! Anyone who can crochet can make this.

Like these patterns so far? I bet you’ll love my ebook of 13 OTHER lace stitch patterns (that use simple stitches just like these! Grab the ebook here.

Swatch #2: V Shells

This shell, also known as a v-stitch, is definitely a must-know. It is incorporated into many types of lace. (For more info on these stitches, don’t forget to read the post on Joy of Motion Crochet!)

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next fsc. *Sk 2 fsc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next fsc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-sp of shell from previous row. Rep from * across all ch-spaces. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 9 rows in my swatch).

Swatch #3: Twisted Stitches

I absolutely love the look of twisted stitches. For one thing, they look similar certain types of knitting. At the same time, they are also really fun to make. Once you get the hang of them, you easily get in a great rhythm.

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 2 + 1, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 4, tr in next fsc. *Sk next fsc, tr in next fsc. Working behind tr just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, tr in next tr. *Sk next tr, tr in next tr. Working behind st just made, tr in skipped st (twisted st made). Rep from * until  2 sts left. Tr in last 2 sts.

Repeat row 2 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 6 rows in the swatch).

TUTORIAL For One Twisted Stitch:

Swatch 4: Pineapple Lace

Out of all lace, pineapple is a classic that I will never grow tired of. I love incorporating pineapples into my designs. Even though it looks complicated, don’t let that scare you off. Pineapples are made of basic stitches.

Instructions:

Fsc 13 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need to ch 14, and then do a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as a dc, here and throughout), dc in next 2 fsc. Sk 3 fsc, 9 dc in next fsc. Sk 3 fsc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc. (Ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) 4 times. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times. Ch 4, sk next dc, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. (Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp) 2 times. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

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Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-4 sp. Ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in last 3 dc.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. Ch 4, sk next 2 ch-4 spaces. Dc in last 3 dc.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. 9 dc in next ch-4 sp. Dc in last 3 dc.

Repeat rows 2-8 until swatch reaches desired length (I did 14 rows in the swatch below). If you kept repeating this, it would make a great kid’s scarf!

If you are new to lace, I would encourage you to practice with these swatches! Start with the easiest one, and work your way up. Once you’re familiar with the way lace works, try a pattern! Don’t be afraid to get out of your comfort zone a little bit and try something new. I guarantee you won’t regret it! If you’re ready to try designing your OWN lace, don’t forget to check out the follow up post on Joy of Motion Crochet!

If you want to venture even further into lace, I have a special offer for you, like I mentioned earlier!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to email me: rachel@desertblossomcrafts.com. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Happy crocheting!

The post 4 Types of Crochet Lace For Beginners appeared first on .

Let me just tell you right now: that is NOT true. It IS possible to block acrylic! It requires a bit of a different method than natural fibers, but it turns out every bit as good. And actually, its pretty fun to do.

Trust me. I have done this personally, and it works. Curious? Read on to find out how.

You can block your acrylic projects using an AMAZING technique called Steam Blocking. This method uses steam to “iron” out your stitches and force them to lay flat, without actually touching the yarn.

It is actually pretty fun to watch this in action!

In fact, if you want to see me explain the steps in 30 seconds, watch my new video tutorial below! Or, keep scrolling to learn the 4 easy steps to blocking acrylic yarn.

Like this video? Make sure to come subscribe to my YouTube channel for more!

Back to the topic at hand – the reason people can be wary of this method is because if you touch the iron to your project, you can actually melt the yarn. This is often called “killing” your project, and it is essentially because acrylic yarn is made out of plastic. I know it sounds scary—but trust me, it is very easily avoidable. I have done this many times with regular household supplies, and I’ve never had any problem.

Softening Acrylic Yarn

In addition to blocking NOT being a bad thing…on the flip side it is actually a very GOOD thing!

Here are the benefits to blocking your projects like I’m about to show you:

1. You’ll be able to soften the acrylic yarn. The steam causes the yarn to relax and it usually ends up MUCH softer. (Yes, red heart super saver included!!)

2. Your project will open up and be so beautiful. In the case of the shawl in the video above, the lacy section in the middle looked SO much better after it was blocked.

Steam Blocking Acrylic Projects

 Materials:

• Pins (optional)
• Towel
• Iron with a steam setting

Step 1:

Lay your project out on a towel or blocking boards. If it needs to be stretched drastically (like lace), you will definitely want to pin it down. However, with some projects pinning isn’t necessary. If your project isn’t lace, you shouldn’t need to pin it down. If it is made out of a heavier weight yarn, like worsted weight, you also probably don’t need to pin.

Step 2:

Prepare your iron. Fill it with water, set it to the “steam” setting, and let it heat up.

Step 3:

Hover the iron over your project. Do not EVER touch the iron to the crocheting. Like I said before, the yarn will melt if it touches the iron. However, you still have to hover the iron at least an inch above your project. As long as the iron never physically touches the yarn, you’ll be fine. You can get as close to your project as you want, but be careful.

Step 4:

Don’t be shy with the steam, but let it keep going until your project is damp. After this, remove the pins. (If you didn’t pin your project down, you’re all done!)

And that is all there is to blocking acrylic! Once you try this method, you will never go back! It it so fun to watch the steam envelope the stitches…and then pull your project up and find it perfectly blocked!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

To find out about ALL blocking methods, visit this post. To view all my free patterns, click here.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Block Acrylic Without Killing Your Project appeared first on .

I don’t want that to happen to you!

Maybe you feel like foundation single crochet is too hard, that you’ll never get the hang of it. This is a common feeling, and I understand! I was right there with you. However, when I did finally find this stitch, it became my go-to. I hardly ever start a pattern with chains now. Let me show you how fsc can be a help, rather than a hassle. First, I will tell you what exactly foundation single crochet is, and why I like it. Then, I will provide you with a detailed tutorial, perfect for beginners, that should get you using this new stitch right away!

Foundation Single Crochet—What it is

Below you can see a picture of a small row of foundation single crochet. So what is this stitch? Basically, it is a chain row and a single crochet row combined. Instead of forming a chain row first, and then adding sc on top of it, you do them both at the same time. Intriguing? Keep reading to find out why I like this stitch so much.

Why You Should Use Foundation Single Crochet

You will always hear crocheters debate the use of foundation single crochet. Some say it is worthless—stick with tradition, and do a normal chain stitch. However, others say fsc is actually a useful new crochet technique that we should most definitely take advantage of. So who’s right?

I’ll be honest—I tend to side with those who are for foundation single crochet. In fact, I love fsc as a starting row. Here’s why:

1. It gets your chain row and single crochet row done all at once

Does anyone else out there hate that first row after the chain as much as I do? I don’t know about you, but it’s always a huge relief to me when I’m on to the regular stitch pattern. A chain is just SO annoying to stick a hook into! However, like I said earlier, foundation single crochet eliminates that pain. Your normal chain stitch and single crochet stitch is combined into one row. With each stitch, you create a chain and a sc at the same time. Let me tell you—it’s wonderful!

2. It is extra stretchy

Another annoying thing about chains is that they tend to be tight. Even if you try really hard to work them loosely, they end up tighter than the rest of the pattern. In garments, this is especially annoying. If the neck is started with a chain row, it can be hard to fit over your head. Even in a scarf, you will see this. The first row will be very tight, and then the rest of the scarf will be slightly larger than the rest. So annoying. However, (I bet you can guess what I’m going to say…) foundation single crochet is super stretchy! It solves a problem that a chain stitch cannot solve.

3. Lots of “Big” Designers use it

Don’t just take my advice—I’m not the only one who loves fsc! I’ve done a lot of patterns from designers like Doris Chan and Robyn Chachula, who have their work published in Interweave Crochet Magazine, their own books, etc. And let me tell you—they almost always use foundation single crochet as a starting point.

Are you convinced yet? Trust me, once you get the hang of this foundation stitch, you won’t want to go back! It may take some getting used to, but I know you can do it. So grab a hook and lets get started!

More Stitch Tutorials:

• Suzette Stitch
• Trinity Stitch
• Alpine Stitch
• Crunch Stitch

Foundation Single Crochet Tutorial

Let’s get into the details of how to crochet the foundation single crochet stitch! View the video tutorial below, or keep reading for step by step instructions.

Step 1:

Ch 2.

Step 2:

Pull up a loop in second ch from hook.

Step 3:

Yo, pull through one loop. (This step forms the “ch” of the fsc row),

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Step 4:

Yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

You have now finished your very first fsc!

Now, you will see the hook pointing to a space below. That is the “ch” of the fsc stitch. It is the loop you will insert your hook into for the next step.

Step 5:

Yo, pull up a loop in the “ch” space of the first fsc stitch.

Step 6:

Now it is basically the same as the first fsc stitch! YO, pull through one loop.

Step 7:

YO, pull through last 2 loops.

And there are your first two foundation single crochet stitches! Pretty neat, huh? Now all you have to do is repeat steps 5-7 for as many fsc as you want!

Here is my row of fsc. As you can see, I have done my chain and single crochet row all at once.

In this picture, you can see the tops of the sc—it looks exactly like a normal row!

That’s all there is to it! As you keep practicing this stitch, it will get easier and easier. Don’t give up, even if it’s a struggle at first. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help! Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Pinterest for lots more crochet inspiration!

Related Tutorial: Learn how to block your crochet projects!

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

The post Beginner’s Guide to Foundation Single Crochet appeared first on .

Around here, Spring may start on March 20th, but the weather can still be pretty fickle. We will have some warm days, and then it will turn cold again. Sometimes the trees even start blooming (that is our almond tree in the picture below with blooms) and then it suddenly freezes unexpectedly! When that happens our blooming fruit trees lose all their fruit It takes awhile before we know for sure that the warmth has come to stay. However, the nice yellow color of this cowl reminds me that the bright, sunny days of Spring and Summer are just around the corner!

Since I designed this cowl for an active eight-year-old, I used acrylic yarn, not merino wool or anything expensive. I’ll just admit it now—the yarn I used was something unnamed in my stash that my Great-Grandma gave me. So no, I can’t tell you the exact yarn I used. However, I can point you to a similar one that would work great! Loops and Threads Woolike is a great Fingering weight acrylic yarn. One of the great things about it is that it is super cheap! Literally, it’s $2.99 for 100 grams at Michaels. I would definitely recommend it! Click here to buy some for yourself!

One more note on yarnie stuff—although I used acrylic yarn for this kid’s cowl, I still had to block it. Now, you’ve probably heard people say a million times that you can’t block acrylic yarn—”You’ll kill it!” While it is possible to “kill” acrylic yarn, it is actually not likely. In fact, blocking acrylic is actually very easy! You have to use a method called steam blocking. If you don’t know what that is,  don’t worry. I will be putting out a tutorial soon. If you have any questions before that, feel free to contact me. 

Okay, just one more note before we get to the pattern….isn’t my model adorable?! In the next series of pictures, I got her to laugh hysterically. I don’t even remember what I said—but it must’ve been pretty funny!

Okay, now what we’ve all been waiting for: here is the pattern!! Note: to purchase ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click here

Honeycomb Kid’s Cowl

Notes:

Cowl is worked back and forth in rows; turn at the end of each row.

If you would like to change the size of this cowl, it is very easy to do! I wrote a post a couple weeks back with just the stitch pattern. That post can be found here.

The pattern will be in 2 parts: first, the written pattern; then some pictures to help with potentially confusing parts of the pattern.

For a complete list of standard crochet abbreviations, click here.

Materials:

• Approximately 50 grams of fingering weight yarn
• Sample Yarn: Loops and Threads Woolike
• F/3.75mm crochet hook 
• Yarn needle
• Blocking materials

Gauge:

First 6 rows of pattern = 4″ high, 6 1/4″ wide

The picture below shows about what your gauge swatch should look like. Please note that gauge is not critical for this pattern, as a slightly smaller or larger cowl won’t make a huge difference.

Finished Measurements

8″ wide, 28″ long.

Instructions:

Fsc 24, turn.

Row 1: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first fsc. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). *(sc, ch 7, sc) in next fsc. Sk fsc, sc in next fsc. Rep from * till 4 sts left. (Sc, ch 7 sc), in next fsc. Sk next fsc, sl st in next fsc. Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in last fsc.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in next st. (Tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 7 loop. *Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch 7. Rep from * 5 times more. Tr in last 2 tr.

Row 3: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first tr. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). *Sc in next ch-2 sp. (Sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 5 times more. Sc in last ch-2 sp, sk next tr, sl st in next tr. Ch 4 (counts as tr). Tr in last st.

Row 4: Ch 4, tr in next tr. Ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch-7 loop. *Ch 1, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next ch-7 loop. Rep from * 5 times more. Ch 2, tr in last 2 tr.

Row 5: Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) tr in first st. Ch 4, sl st in next st (counts as a tr). (Sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-2 sp. *Sc in next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7, sc) in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 4 times more. Sc in next ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 7, sc) in last ch-2 sp. Sl st in next tr, ch 4 (counts as tr). Tr in last tr.

Repeat rows 2-5 till your cowl measures approximately 20 1/2 inches, or desired length. End on a row 2. (I did 35 rows total, including the final sc row).

LAST ROW: ch 1 (does NOT count as st). Sc in first 2 tr. *2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * 5 times more. 2 sc in last ch-2 sp. Sc in final 2 tr.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Block to finished measurements. After blocking is finished, with RS facing, sew the two ends together.

Picture Appendix

This is a tutorial for the beginning and end of every odd row, as these rows can be slightly confusing.

On any odd row, you will be asked to: “Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st). Tr in first st.” In the picture below, the hook is in the stitch you should go into.

With the finished tr:

Then ch 4, sl st in next st. This does count as a tr, as the pattern says. Why do a ch 4 here instead of a regular tr? Because the rest of the row uses sc sts. The ch-4 allows you to be at the “bottom” of the row, in order to continue with sc and ch-7 loops. See picture…

Continue across the row…

When you get to the end of the row, you will sl st in the second to last tr from the end. Then ch-4, as shown. This, too, counts as a tr.

Finally, tr in the last tr. Picture below shows the ending of the row in context:

If you have any questions at all, please feel free to leave a comment or contact me directly here. For tons more crochet inspiration, visit me on Instagram or Facebook.

Remember, to get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, visit this link.

— Rachel

The post Spring has Sprung—Honeycomb Kid’s Cowl appeared first on .