I sure do love a quick crochet pattern. When I was thinking about ornament designs, one of my top priorities was to make a classic ornament—but also something that was simple and could be made last minute (for those of us who like to procrastinate!

Crochet Christmas Bauble Ornaments

These cute little ball ornaments are what emerged when I thought classic and simple! They are made almost entirely from half double crochet, with a quick round of single crochet in the center to make a stripe.

On a different note, I find it interesting that these can be called both “ball” and “bauble” ornaments. Which name do you usually use? I would love to hear!

Materials to Crochet Easy Ball Ornaments

You will just need small amounts of worsted weight yarn to make these ornaments! That’s the wonderful thing about this pattern and all my other crochet ornaments – you can try to use up scraps you have in your stash!

When you choose colors, you can definitely go a variety of different routes. For example, the first time I made these ornaments I used all Christmas colors: green, red, and white.

However, the second time around I decided to use more jewel-toned colors, like wine, gold, and teal.

If you scroll down to the tutorial section of the pattern, you’ll see what I mean!

More Crochet Christmas Ornaments

Speaking of more ornaments, here are a few other patterns I’ve designed! You definitely want to check these out if you need some quick crochet gifts for family and friends this year.

1/ Snowflake Ornament 2/ Wreath Ornament 3/ Red Truck Ornament 4/ Christmas Tree Ornament

How do you crochet a Christmas Ball?

To crochet our Christmas baubles/balls, we will start at the bottom and work in these steps:

1. Make a small round of 10 half double crochet
2. Increase in each stitch for round 2 so we have 20 half double crochet
3. Work a regular round so the work starts curving up into a ball
4. Fasten off and join in color #2 to make a quick stripe
5. Join the main color back in, work an even round, and then some decrease rounds to form it into a finished ball

Of course, if that sounds confusing now, don’t worry! I will have more detailed instructions farther down in the post, along with some photos to help you out.

What is the average size of a Christmas ball ornament?

Regular Christmas ball ornaments come in a wide range of different sizes! I’m sure you’ve seen very large ones and very small ones. From what I can tell, the average size ranges from 3 to 4 inches.

This crochet ball ornament in particular can change in size depending on the yarn and hook you use! The ones pictured below measured around 3″ tall. However, I’ve also gone down a few hook sizes to experiment, and I’ve found that I like the way they look smaller too.

GET THE 12 DAYS OF CHRISTMAS ORNAMENT EBOOK!

Want a whole lot MORE cute crochet ornament patterns? I would invite you to grab the Crochet Ornament and Gifting Pack for a huge discount!

In this Ebook, you get ALL my ornament patterns in one PDF, so you can print them all out easily and not have to worry about ads. Not to mention, if you’re participating in the Christmas in July Crochet-Along, you’ll get early access to all the patterns before anyone else!

Christmas Ball Ornament Crochet Pattern

All right, lets get onto the pattern now!

• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards
• Get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern
• Get a bundle of 12 cute ornament crochet patterns

Materials:

• Red Heart Super Saver Yarn (96% acrylic, 4% other, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g) less than 1 ball in your preferred Christmas colors
• Or any other leftover worsted weight yarn you have in your stash. I also tried Yarn Bee Soft Secret when making the tutorial, and loved the way they turned out.
• G/4mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn needle
• Polyfill Stuffing

Notes:

Chain 2 at the beginning of each round NEVER counts as a stitch! This ch 2 is there simply to eliminate a hole in the joining area.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

MC: Main Color

CC: Contrasting Color

Special Stitch:

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog):
YO, insert hook in indicated st, YO, pull up loop. Insert hook in next st, YO, pull up loop. YO, pull through last 4 loops on hook.

Crochet Christmas Ball Written Instructions & Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With MC, Ch 3 (does NOT count as st, here and throughout), 10 hdc in 3rd chain from hook. Join with sl st in first hdc. (10 hdc)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. (20 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to first hdc. Fasten off MC. 

At this point your work should be curving upward into a ball:

Rnd 4: Join CC with a sc in any st (no need to make a sl st first. Just make a slip knot and make a sc into any st. This is also known as a standing sc). 

Sc in ea hdc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off CC. (20 sc) 

Rnd 5: Join MC with a sl st in any st. Ch 2, hdc in ea sc around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (20 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc2tog around. Join with a sl st to first hdc2tog. (10 hdc)

At this point, begin to stuff your ornament! Don’t overstuff, but add enough so that it looks like a nice ball. I like to stick all my loose ends inside at this point too to avoid lots of weaving in later.

Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc2tog around. Join with a sl st to first hdc2tog. (5 hdc) Note: if desired, add a little more stuffing about halfway through this round.

Fasten Off, leaving a tail for sewing. 

Finishing:

• Weave end through last 5 sts and sew opening closed. 
• Weave in any remaining ends
• Attach a hanger—I simply used a piece of yarn knotted at the surface of the ornament.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

To view all my other FREE patterns, click HERE.  If you want to be the FIRST to see new patterns, tutorials, and more, sign up for my email list below!

— Rachel

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog.

The post Simple Crochet Christmas Ball Ornaments—FREE Pattern appeared first on .

Continue reading for the free written instructions, or purchase a print-optimized PDF pattern here.

10-Minute Crochet Stars

These Christmas crochet stars work up in only 10 minutes or so! I love quick patterns. After making these, you’re sure to feel ahead in your Christmas gift preparations.  

How do you crochet a star ornament?

Stars are not difficult to crochet at all! If you’re wondering how to crochet a star for beginners, you are in the right place. To make this pattern, you will start in the center with a small circle and work your way outward until you are making the points. Don’t worry, I will show you exactly how to do this!

In fact, let’s get straight to the pattern.

Easy Crochet Christmas Star Ornament Pattern

By Rachel Counts

• pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards
• buy the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern
• get a bundle of 12 ornament crochet patterns

Video Tutorial:

Simple Crochet Stars Materials

• Sport Weight Yarn and Worsted Weight YarnSample Yarn: for gold stars: Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour
• For silver stars: Caron Simply Soft Party
• Various crochet hooks: I used H and G hooks with worsted yarn, and an F hook with sport weight yarn (follow individual star instructions for more hook information)
• Yarn needle

As you can see, you will just need some yarn and crochet hooks to get started making these stars. Nothing fancy!

Personally, used two different yarn weights—worsted and sport weight. For the worsted, I used Caron Simply Soft Party. I love this sparkly silver yarn! I used a G hook to go along with it.

The second yarn I used was Lion Brand Vanna’s Glamour. This is a sparkly sport weight yarn that I absolutely LOVE! It is so much fun to work with—and it definitely IS glamorous! I have tried both and E and F hook with sport weight yarn.

However, the truth is, you can use any yarn and hook combo to make these stars. Feel free to experiment with whatever you have in your stash!

Purchase & Print this Crochet Pattern Right Here!

Star Pattern Notes:

This design includes two base star patterns: a large star and a small star!

However, as you can see in the photo above, I actually made a lot of different sizes simply by adjusting hook and yarn size. I would encourage you to experiment with it as well!

I love these stars because they are so adjustable to however you want to make them. You can easily vary the size simply by using a different weight yarn, or a different hook. 

Abbreviations/Stitches Used: 

Chain – ch

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Double crochet – dc

Triple Crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Large Star Written Instructions:

Notes: In the photos shown, I made 3 versions of the large star:

1. Worsted weight yarn with H/8 crochet hook (this is the largest silver star pictured)
2. Worsted weight yarn with G/4.25mm hook (this is the smaller silver star)
3. Sport weight yarn with F/3.75mm hook (this is the largest gold star pictured)

Feel free to experiment to see what size you like!

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (does NOT count as st) 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to first hdc (NOT chain).

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st, here and throughout) *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st. Ch 1, rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same st as sl st. Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, ch 2. *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, ch 2. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc in same st as sl st. Sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st. (dc, tr, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, tr, dc) in next ch-2 space. *Hdc in next st. Sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st. (dc, tr, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, tr, dc) in next ch-2 space. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Large Star Photo Tutorial

To begin making your star chain 3 and make 10 half double crochets in the 3rd chain from your hook. These stitches will form into a round like so:

For round two, you will be working sections of 2 half double crochets in the same stitch, 1 half double crochet, and then a chain 1.

For round 3, we are simply expanding on the last round a little bit more before making the points in the next round. The pattern here is 2 half double crochet in the same stitch, 1 half double crochet, 2 half double crochet in the same stitch, and then a chain 2. The chain 2 should be above where the chain 1 was on the last round!

Of course, round 4 is the fun part! Here we start making the 5 points so that it actually looks like a star.

What your star should look like after making 1 point:

Each of your 5 points should be worked in the chain 2 space from the round before. When you get to the end, simply join with a slip stitch and fasten off!

More Christmas Crochet Ideas

• 15+ Christmas Tree Inspired Patterns
• Over 30 Christmas Crochet Gift Ideas
• Crochet Red Truck Ornament

Small Star Written Instructions

Notes: in the photos shown, I made one version of the small star: Sport weight yarn with F/3.75mm hook (this is the smallest gold star pictured).

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (does NOT count as st) 10 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with a sl st to first hdc (NOT chain).

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st. Ch 2, rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in same st as sl st and in next 2 sc. *(Hdc, dc, ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, dc, hdc) in next ch-2 space. Sc in next 3 sts. Rep from * around,except on last repeat, omit the last 3 sc. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Small Star Photo Tutorial

The small star starts out exactly the same as the large star – with 10 hdc in a round. However, after that it starts to change a bit (though the same concept is the same!)

This is what round 2 should look like. Note that it is the same as the large star except we are working chain 2 spaces here instead of chain 1 spaces.

For the small star, we will then immediately jump into making our 5 points on round 3! The concept of the points is the same as for the large star, but the way it plays out is slightly different. You will still make your points in each chain 2 space around. However, the stitches used won’t be as tall (hdc and dc rather than dc and tr for the large star).

This is what the star will look like after finishing 2 points:

Finishing:

If desired, attach a hanger to make these stars Christmas ornaments! Block the ornaments using steam blocking to prevent curling.

More Crochet Ornament Patterns

Looking for more crochet ornaments? I have so many others here on the blog! Here are 4 favorites that are sure to help you get ahead on gifts:

1/ Snowflake Ornament 2/ Wreath Ornament 3/ Ball Ornament 4/ Tree Ornament

Using Your Crochet Stars

So now you’ve made your crochet stars…but how can you put them to use? Here are my best ideas:

1. Star Ornaments

This is one of the most common ways, and the way I chose to use my stars! All you need to do to make these into ornaments is attach a little hanger at the top. They sparkle wonderfully on the tree!

2. Crochet Star Appliques & Motifs

If ornaments aren’t your things, this pattern will certainly work if you need a star applique or star motif as well. These stars lay perfectly flat, so you can easily sew them onto other things if you’d like.

3. Crochet Star Coaster

Another great use for these flat stars would be a coaster! I would recommend using the large star pattern because this will make a perfect sized coaster. Another great decor idea, don’t you think?!

3. Crochet Star Garland

Last but certainly not least, you could also string together a bunch of these stars to make a garland! Wouldn’t that be just lovely?! You could choose to use all stars of the same size and color, or you could mix it up with different sizes and colors to get a varied effect. Just use a long string or crocheted chain to attach them together.

Crocheting a 5 Pointed Star

One other thing you might wonder is, how do you get 5 points on your star? Since this pattern is for a 5-pointed crochet star, I thought I would explain a bit more about how to accomplish this.

To crochet a 5-point star, you just have to make sure you start your first row with a multiple of 5! For example, these stars begin with 10 hdc. From there, it continues to have a multiple of 5 as it increases outward. This makes it very easy to set up those 5 points!

Conclusion

Crochet Christmas stars are a great way to spruce up your home decorations, don’t you think? They are simple to crochet, yet they make such a statement! Use them as ornaments, coasters, appliques, or string them together for a garland. I truly hope you loved this crochet pattern as much as I loved designing it!

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

© 2021 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Crochet Christmas Star Ornament Pattern—FREE & Easy appeared first on .

I don’t know about you, but summer is in full swing around here. And I am always looking for a nice light top that I won’t get too hot in.

That’s why the Shelby Top is made of linen! The amazing yarn I used, from Darn Good Yarn, is thin and breathable—perfect for summer.

The yarn I used is called a Sport Weight Linen 2 ply. It is such a pretty yarn; check it out HERE!

In case you can’t tell, I’m kind of a crochet lace fanatic. I’m always looking for new ways to combine lace with simple stitches for a pretty, elegant result! That’s exactly what I tried to accomplish with this top. Large, open triple-crochet clusters alternate with simple double crochet for a beautiful finished result!

Another great thing about this crochet top pattern is the flexibility I’ve included in the sizing. Along the pattern, you will see “size adjustment tips”—and I really hope you guys maximize your use of these! They are designed to help you customize the fit of the garment. You still have finished pattern instructions, but you can also deviate from those if you feel the need.

The length adjustment tips are especially there to help you. It was hard to put the length into one measurement for each size because of the large repeats of dc and tr rows. And the length can vary so much depending on your body type! So definitely feel free to follow the adjustment instructions and customize your length.

Related Posts

• Juniper Cardigan – Summer Cardigan with Fully Adjustable Sizing!
• 10 Free Crochet Lace Pattern To Stay in Style
• Parisian Dress Crochet Pattern

The picture above shows one of my testers’ Shelby Tops—isn’t it gorgeous?

Download and Print this Pattern

Want to view this pattern without ads? I have the perfect option for you! The inexpensive PDF version of this pattern is available in my pattern store here.

As you can probably tell, I had fun while taking these pictures of my new crochet summer top. It’s just so flowy and fun to wear! This is a top I might wear to a baby shower, or a summer party!

Shelby Top Crochet Pattern

Let’s get started on the Shelby Top pattern now!

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE.
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE.

Materials:

• Darn Good Yarn Sport Weight Linen 2 Ply: 3 (3, 4, 5, 6) skeins. 
• Or sport weight yarn in the following yardage: Approximately 870 (1,050, 1,350, 1,580, 1,950) yards
• F (3.75mm) hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

See my favorite sweater yarns here!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Triple crochet – tr

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS – right side

Sizing: 

Sizes shown are S (M, L, XL/2XL, 3XL) 

To fit bust size: 30 (36, 42, 48, 54)”

Finished bust size: 33 (39, 45, 51, 57)”

Pattern is designed with 3” of positive ease. To choose your size: the “to fit” measurement is just a guide. To better determine your size, look at the finished bust size (this is the exact finished measurement if you get gauge) and decide how much positive ease you want. Extra positive ease won’t hurt, as this is designed to be a loose fitting top. 

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 30”, wearing a size Small. 

OTHER EASY SUMMER GARMENT CROCHET PATTERNS

1/ Summer Breeze Vest 2/ Lunar Lace Tunic 3/ Midnight Top

Finished Measurements:

Width of the main body of panels: 16.5 (19.5, 22.5, 25.5, 28.5)” 

Overall Length: 25 (25, 27, 31, 33)” 

Length of sleeves: 10 (10, 11, 11, 12, 12)” 

The overall length and the sleeve length are both easily adjustable; instructions included in the pattern.

Gauge:

16 dc and 8 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

Make a gauge swatch as follows: Fsc 22. Do one row of dc, then work rows 1-8 of Panel instructions. Work one extra dc row (total of 10 rows). For length, take 2 measurements: First, measure rows 2-8; this should equal 4”. Then, measure rows 6-9; this should equal 2”. 

Notes:

1. This top is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides, sleeves and shoulders.  
2. Ch 4 at beginning of rows counts as a tr. 
3. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc. 
4. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc. 
5. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M, L, XL/2XL, and 3XL in parentheses. 

Shelby Crochet Top Written Instructions:

Let’s get started on this pattern! I’ve included written instructions, and there will also be a summer top crochet tutorial as well – photos that accompany the pattern as you go!

PANELS (Make 2)

Fsc 66 (78, 90, 102, 114) If you are unfamiliar with the fsc technique, check out the video below:

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each fsc across. Turn.

Row 2-5: Ch 3, dc in each dc across. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in ea dc across.Turn.

Row 7: Ch 4, tr in next sc. *Sk 3 sts, 4 tr in next st. Rep from * until 5 sts left. Sk next 3 sts, tr in last 2 sts. Turn. 

Note about row 8: the main goal of this row is to end up with the same amount of sts as you had before the shell row. For this reason, we will be doing some sc’s in between stitches. Don’t be alarmed by this, it is okay. 

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in first 2 tr. Sc in between next 2 tr. Sc across to somewhere around the middle of row. Sc in between 2 more tr. Keep doing sc across until 3 tr are left. Sc in next tr, sc in between next tr. Sc in last 2 tr. Turn. Make sure to count sts here! 

Row 8 Tutorial – the series of photos below show where to make that extra little single crochet. You’ll just insert your hook between two stitches and then sc!

Row 9-13: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn. 

Rep rows 6-13 a total of 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times more. Then, for all sizes except 3XL, repeat rows 6-10 again. For size 3XL, only repeat rows 6-8. Fasten off.

Adjustment Tip: This is one place you can adjust the length of your top! Don’t feel stuck to the repeat numbers above. After you finish the last repeat of rows 6-10, hold the top up to about the middle of your bust. This is about where it will hang on you. If you want to adjust, simply keep repeating rows 6-13. It is best to then end on a row 10. However, you can potentially end on any dc row. 

BEGIN SLEEVES

We will now make the panels wider by adding fsc to each side. 

Row 1: Fsc 40 (40, 44, 44, 48). With wrong side of panel facing you, join these fsc to the main body by doing dc’s all across main body (do not turn your fsc row). After doing final dc of the main body, fsc 40 (40, 44, 44, 52)  for the other sleeve (see tutorial below!) Turn.

Adjustment tip: You can make your sleeves longer or shorter here! The fsc on either side of the body simply needs to be a multiple of 4. Feel free to add or subtract to make your sleeves the perfect length! 

Row 2-3: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn. 

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You’ve now made your panel much wider to account for the sleeves. 

Row 4-6: Repeat rows 6-8 of main body. 

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. 

Rep rows 4-7 a total of 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) times, or until top is desired length & sleeves are desired width. 

Last row: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Fasten off. 

ASSEMBLY

Lay both panels out, with right sides together. Sew side seams and underarm seams. Sew along the top—from the edge of sleeves to neckline. Leave an opening as big as you would like. (The bigger the neck opening you leave, the more off-the-shoulder the top will be). I recommend doing this seam last so you can try on the top and see how big you’d like it. 

New to seaming garments together? Check out the tutorial below for 3 common methods and when to use them!

Finishing: Join yarn at back of neck opening. Sc all around neck opening. Join with sl st to beg sc, and fasten off. 

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

The post Shelby Top—Free & Easy Crochet Summer Top Pattern (2024) appeared first on .

So, when I first made this stitch, I had no idea what to call it. I liked it, but I just couldn’t see a resemblance in it. I decided to post a picture of it in a crochet Facebook Group, and almost immediately people started commenting about what it looked like! I got an overwhelming amount of responses of two different things. A lot of people either said it looked like a bridge or like roman numerals.

I settled on the Bridge Stitch, because it sounds a bit better. And I really love how the photos turned out—I put a picture of a trestle bridge in it so you could see the inspiration!

Anyway, that is the story behind this stitch. It really is a fun one!

Also, in case you haven’t heard…this stitch is apart of the Desert Blossom Stitch Along, which is running throughout all of 2019! We are more than halfway through the year, but you can still jump in now if you’d like to! Be sure to view the master list of stitches released so far HERE, or join the community in my Facebook Group HERE.

You can also get an easily printable version of this stitch pattern, plus 3 OTHER stitch patterns (all the ones coming in September!) when you click HERE. This PDF is inexpensive and ad-free.

P.S. THE STITCH BUNDLE IS 50% OFF FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY!

How to Crochet the Bridge Stitch

Let’s jump right in!

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

Notes

• Stitch pattern is multiple of 6+2
• Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc

Materials

You can potentially use ANY yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here’s what I used:

1. DK weight yarn
2. H/8 (5mm) crochet hook

Instructions:

NOTE: For a picture tutorial going along with these written instructions, be sure to view the video above! It will show you pictures to help with any tricky steps. You can pause it at any time if you need to focus in on a given step!

Fsc a multiple of 6+2 (to start with a chain stitch, you’ll need a multiple of 6+3, and then one row of single crochet). 

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *Fpdc over next 4 dc. Dc in next 2 dc. Rep from * across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *You are now working in the 4 open dc from Row 1.  Tr in next 4 dc. Dc in next 2 dc (from the regular row). Rep from * across. Turn. 

Like this pattern so far? Be sure to grab the PDF containing ALL of September’s stitch patterns HERE!

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc. *You are now working in the 4 open dc from Row 2. Sk next 2 dc, tr in next dc. Ch 2. Working in front of tr just made, tr in previous stitch. Sk next dc. Dc in next 2 dc (from the regular row). Rep from * across. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc. *2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc. Rep from * until 1 ch-2 sp and 3 dc are left. 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc in last 3 dc. Turn. 

Rep rows 2-5 for stitch pattern! 

I hope you have enjoyed learning this fun stitch pattern.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

Happy Crocheting!

The post How to Crochet the Bridge Stitch appeared first on .

The Statue of Liberty was…amazing! We went up to the crown, walking the stairs all the way. The spiral staircase was really fun. My legs are definitely tired…but it was so worth it!

I love traveling to see different national parks and monuments all over the country. While we are staying near D.C. and New York on this trip, I would love to visit other parks like ones near Chicago.

As you can see, this pattern is a wall hanging made from Corner to Corner Crochet. I can’t wait to put it on my wall as a memento when we get home!

The Yarn

Real quick, before we get to the pattern…lets talk about the yarn!I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice for my sign. I absolutely love this yarn. It’s worsted weight, but softer than a lot of other standard worsted weight yarns out there. Get some for yourself HERE.

Now to the pattern!

I Love New York Sign

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE.
• The PDF version of this pattern on Etsy will become available when I get home from the East Coast!

Materials:

• Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn (or any worsted weight yarn)
• H/8 Crochet Hook
• Yarn needle
• Shadow Box Frame

Notes:

1. This pattern is made with the C2C (corner to corner) crochet method. If you are unfamiliar with this method, here are some helpful tutorials:

How to Crochet Corner to Corner

How to change colors in C2C

2. Start in the bottom right corner of the color chart, where there are two number 1’s. Then work diagonally as you normally would in C2C, changing colors as indicated.Here’s the color chart; enjoy!

After you’ve finished all the crocheting, you can leave it as is, or frame it as I did. I used an 8″ by 8″ shadow box frame. All I had to do was stick it inside!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern; I had so much fun designing it! To view more of my free patterns, click here. And if you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. 

Want to follow along as I continue my trip across the East Coast? My next stop will be Philadelphia…then Washington D.C.! Don’t miss next patterns in my travel series! Click HERE to view all the patterns published in this series.

Happy crocheting!

— Rachel

© 2018 All rights reserved. You may print this pattern for private use only. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. Your finished items are yours to do with as you wish.

The post I Love New York Crochet Wall Hanging appeared first on .

Ok, so if you’ve been following my Stitch Along, then you know that the stitch I released last week was the Twisted Stitch.

This week’s stitch is a variation of that! While the twisted stitch required you to work behind a stitch, the Swirl stitch will have you work in FRONT. More explanation will come with the tutorial, don’t worry!

If you haven’t joined my Stitch Along yet, it’s not too late! The great thing about this is that you can jump in at any time. Be sure to join the Stitch Along community in my Facebook group HERE.

You can also view the master list of stitches that have been released so far by clicking HERE! There are definitely some more cool ones you will want to check out.

Last thing before we get started on this stitch: I created a bundle of 4 stitch patterns on Etsy which can be found here. Included is the Twisted Stitch, plus 3 OTHER lace stitch patterns (all of the ones that will be released in June!) The stitches are written out for easy printing. Find this bundle HERE!

How to Crochet the Swirl Stitch

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Dictionary, click HERE

Notes

• Stitch pattern is multiple of 3
• Ch 3 at beginning of rows count as dc

Materials

You can potentially use any yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here is what I used:

• Red Heart Super Saver Yarn
• H/8 Crochet Hook

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Angelica Cardigan2/ Raised V-Stitch3/ Twilight Beanie

Instructions:

Fsc a multiple of 3+2 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next fsc. Sk next fsc, dc in next fsc. Working around front of same dc, dc in skipped stitch. *Ch 1, sk 2 fsc, dc in next fsc. Working around front of same dc, dc in skipped fsc. Rep from * until 2 fsc left. Dc in last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as sc) sc in first st.Sc in next 3 dc. *Sc in next ch sp, sc in next 2 dc. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Sc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Like this pattern so far? Be sure to check out the printer-friendly version (plus 3 BONUS stitch patterns—see picture below!)

Click HERE for more information!

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next sc. Sk next sc, dc in next sc. Working in front of dc just made, dc in skipped stitch. *Ch 1, sk 2 sc, dc in next sc. Working in front of dc just made, dc in skipped st. Rep from * until 2 sc left. Dc in last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Rep rows 3-4 for stitch pattern!  

I hope you have enjoyed learning this fun stitch pattern.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

SHARING IS CARING!

If you did enjoy this post, I would love if you shared it in the following places so many MORE people can see it!

• Pin to Pinterest – just hover over any of the photos in this post and click “save”
• Tag me in your Instagram posts
• Share photos in my Facebook Group

Happy Crocheting!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

The post How to Crochet the Swirl Stitch—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Disclosure. This post may contain affiliate links.

The Sunburst Top is a light summer top made with cotton yarn. You’re sure to make a statement with sections of classic lace + bold stripes! Keep reading to hear all about the pattern details, yarn info, and more—or scroll down to get directly to the free pattern!

This pattern was designed by a blogger named Hortense from Knitting with Chopsticks. It has been so much fun working with her and seeing this top come to life! Be sure to check out her blog which has many other neat patterns (knitting AND crochet!)

As I mentioned before, this top uses the Sunburst Stitch throughout the body of the design! If you want to check out the stitch tutorial before you start the top, be sure to click HERE.

The Yarn

This top uses Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton for a light, airy summer garment! You’re sure to stay cool using this DK cotton yarn. Plus, this yarn is so affordable (only $4.99 a skein!) Be sure to check it out HERE or click below.

Have you signed up for my email list yet? There are exclusive deals, freebies, and more when you do!

You can also buy an ad-free, PDF version of this pattern on Knitting with Chopsticks’ Etsy shop! Click HERE for this easily printable version!

Now that we’ve covered these details, let’s move on to the pattern!

The Sunburst Top—FREE Crochet Pattern

By Knitting With Chopsticks

• To pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To Buy the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry queue, click HERE
• To view Hortense’s blog, click HERE

Materials

• 4.5mm hook
• Lion brand 24/7 cotton yarn:
• 4 skeins of main color (I used the jeans color) and 3 skeins of contrasting colors—I used 1 skein each of off-white, orange and light blue.
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Size

The Sunburst Top is an oversize comfy top. If you want to increase / decrease the width, add or remove a multiple of 3 to the starting chain.

The blocked top has a length of 30″ at the front and a width of 26″.

Although gauge is not important for this top, my gauge in simple dc stitches is 17 stitches by 11 rows for a 4″ by 4″ square.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

This pattern follows US notations

• st = stitch
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet

Notes

1. Repeat instructions between * the indicated number of times or until the end of the row.

2. The turning ch1 and ch2 do not count as stitches. I use a ch2 turning chain for dc stitches as I find it gives me a neater edge.

3. When changing color, the turning ch 1, ch 2 at the end of the previous row are done with the new color. This is not repeated across the pattern for better readability.

Instructions

Both panels are nearly identical rectangles sewed together to form the Sunburst Top.

Front Panel

Using white yarn, Ch 106 + 1

Row 1: sc 106, ch 2, turn

Row 2 – 4: dc 106, ch 2, turn

Row 5: switch to light blue yarn, dc 106, ch 2, turn

Row 6: switch to orange yarn, dc 106, ch 2, turn

Row 7: dc 106, ch 1, turn

Row 8: switch to dark blue. Sc 106, ch 2, turn

Start using the sunburst stitch

Row 9: 2 hdc, skip 1, 3 hdc in the next st, * skip 2, 3 hdc in the next st * repeat until last 3 sts, skip 1, hdc in the last 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 10: Sc in each st, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: 3 sc, * ch 3, skip 2, sc *, sc in the last st, ch 1, turn

Row 12: sc in the first 2 st, * 2 sc in the ch3 space, sc *, sc in the last 2 st, ch 2, turn

Row 13: 2 hdc, skip 1, 3 hdc in the same st, *skip 2, 3 hdc in the same st* repeat until the last 3 sts, skip 1, hdc in the last 2 st, ch 1, turn

Row 14 – 73: Repeat * row 10 to 13 * 15 times

Row 74: Repeat row 10

Switch to orange yarn

Row 75 – 76: dc across, ch 2, turn

Switch to light blue yarn

Row 77: Dc across, ch 2, turn

Switch to off-white yarn

Row 78 – 80: Dc across, ch 2, turn

Switch to orange yarn

Row 81: Dc across, ch 2, turn

Switch to light blue yarn

Row 82 – 83: Dc across, ch 2, turn

Switch to off white

Row 84: Dc across, ch 2, turn

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

I know it doesn’t look long enough but the length of the panel will increase greatly with blocking.

Back Panel

The only difference between both panels is that the back panel is a longer than the front panel.

Using white yarn, Ch 106 + 1

Repeat * rows 1 to 73 *.

Add 2 more repetitions of * rows 10 to 13 * (18 times total).

Continue with row 74 to end.

Blocking

Block both rectangles. Stretch them vertically to a maximum opening up the beautiful sunburst stitches.

Both panels should be approximately 26″ wide.

The front panel should be 27″ long while the back panel is about 30 cm long after blocking.

Sewing

Sew up the panels together. The right side of the panels are the sides where on which you started the Sunburst stitch (row 9). The bottom colored dc parts are left unsewn (picture below).

Leave a 12″ cm opening for your head and an 8″ opening for each arm.

Now you’re ready to go look fabulous in the summer sun!

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

The post Sunburst Top—FREE Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

Read on all about my inspiration, design process, yarn and more—or scroll down to get directly to the free pattern!

So, the Lunar Lace Tunic…this one had quite its ups and downs! However, the finished result turned out almost exactly how I pictured it at the beginning, which is awesome!

I designed this pattern for the Celebrate Mom Blog Hop hosted by Pattern Paradise. It was so much fun to create an elegant pattern I knew my mom would love. Which, by the way…my mom modelling the top for me! She is such a blessing to me, and this top is now hers to keep!

To view all the Mother’s Day themed patterns included in this post, be sure to check out www.pattern-paradise.com!

I designed this top using the Cathedral Stitch—a free stitch tutorial that is apart of my Desert Blossom Stitch Along. From the very beginning, I knew that this lacy stitch would work wonderfully in a summer top, so I set out to figure out how to bring my vision to life.

It took quite a bit of frogging to get it just right…but I finally did! It also took an extra order from Knit Picks because I ran out of yarn…but I think it was worth the extra money.

Want access to more free patterns, plus an insider freebie vault? Sign up for my email list below!

Speaking of yarn…here is what I used!

Knit Picks Galileo

Okay you guys. This yarn…is so beautiful. It’s a sport weight, springy blend of Merino Wool and Viscose. Galileo has a nice softness to it, but it’s also bouncy and has great drape! Plus, who can say no to gorgeous jewel tone colors? Besides this deep blue, Galileo also comes in a lovely peacock, deep ruby red, and more!

As always, this is just a reminder there is also an ad-free, PDF version of this pattern available! This version is super easy to print, and overall will allow you to make this top with less hassle. Grab it HERE or click below to view!

Lunar Lace Tunic—Free Crochet Pattern

By Desert Blossom Crafts

• To Pin this pattern to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE.
• To get the ad-free, PDF version of this pattern, click HERE.
• To add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue, click HERE.

Materials:

• Knit Picks Galileo Yarn: 6 (7, 8, 10, 10, 11) balls.

• Or sport weight yarn in the following yardage: Approx. 750, 850, 950, 1,200, 1,250, 1,350) yards
• G (4.25mm) Hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• F (3.75mm) hook (or one size smaller than hook that obtains gauge).
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations/Stitches Used:

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch: sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

Sizing:

Sizes shown are S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

To fit bust size: 32-34 (36, 38-40, 42, 44-46, 48)”

Finished bust size: 38 (41, 44, 47, 50, 53)”

Pattern is designed with 4-6” of positive ease. To choose your size: the “to fit” measurement is just a guide. To better determine your size, look at the finished bust size (this is the exact finished measurement if you get gauge) and decide how much positive ease you want. Extra positive ease won’t hurt, as this is designed to be a loose fitting top.

For reference, model is 5’ 4″ with a bust of 32”, wearing a size Small.

Finished Measurements

Width of front and back panel (AFTER blocking): 19 (20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26.5)

Gauge:

16 dc = 4”

9 rows in stitch pattern = 4”

Make a gauge swatch as follows:

Fsc 21.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across.

Row 2-4: follow rows 2-4 in front panel instructions.

Row 5-7: follow rows 11-13 in pattern.

Rows 8-10: follow rows 2-4 again.

BLOCK your swatch, then measure gauge as follows:

For width, measure across the ALL DC row in the middle; here, 16 dc should equal 4”. Next, measure from the first lace row up to the last row (9 rows total). These rows should equal 4” as well.

Notes:

1. This top is made of 2 panels, sewn together at the sides and shoulders. 
2. Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as a dc.
3. Ch 1 at beginning of rows does NOT count as a sc.
4. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M-3XL in parentheses.

Instructions:

FRONT PANEL

Ribbing

With F hook, ch 12.

Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in BL of ea st across. Turn.

Rep row 2 for a total of 50 (54, 58, 62, 66, 70) rows.

You will now be working along the side of the band.

Change to G hook. Sc 75 (81, 87, 93, 99,105) across side of band. (You will need to do approximately 1.5 sc per row of hdc).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in ea st across.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next dc. Sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc. *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc. Ch 3, sk 2 dc, 3 dc in next dc. Rep from * until 4 sts left. Sk 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. *Ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk ch-3 sp. Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Rep from * across, till 2 dc left. Sk next dc, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1 (does NOT count as st) sc in first st and next 5 sts. *Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. Sc in next 5 dc. Rep from * till one st left. Sc in last st. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in next st. Ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3, *sk 2 sc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Sk next sc, dc in last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc. Ch 2, *2 dc in next dc. Dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc. Ch 2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2. Rep from * until 2 sts left. Dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts. Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. *Sc in next 5 dc. Ch 2, sk next ch spaces and sc. Rep from * till 2 sts left. Sc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next sc. 3 dc in next ch-2 sp. *Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp. Rep from * till 2 sts left. Dc in last 2 sc. Turn.

Row 9-10: Rep rows 3-4.

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in next 5 sts. 2 dc in next ch 2 sp. Dc in next 5 sc. *Dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next 5 sc. Rep from * until 1 ch sp is left. 2 dc in next ch sp, dc in last 6 sc. Turn. 75 (81, 87, 93, 99, 105) dc Note for clarification: The two edge ch spaces have 2 dc worked into them, but the rest of the ch spaces have only 1 dc.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in ea st across. Turn.

Row 13: Ch 3, dc in ea st across. Turn.

Rows 14-25: Rep rows 2-13.

Row 26-37: Rep rows 2-13 once more.

Sizes will now be split up into separate instructions.

Sizes S, M, and L: Rep rows 2-4 again. Then, repeat row 11. Turn. Move onto v-neck.

Sizes XL, 2XL, and 3XL: Rep rows 2-11 once more. Turn. Move onto v-neck.

Begin V-NECK

Row 1: Sc in next 37 (40, 43, 46, 49, 52) sts. TURN, leaving rest of row unworked.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc for v-neck) Dc2tog. Dc across row. Turn. 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51) dc.

Row 3: Ch 1, Sc across row until 3 sts left. Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50) sc.

Rep rows 2-3 a total of 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12) times more. Then rep row 2 once more. Fasten off. 18 (19, 20, 23, 24, 25) dc.

Size Adjustment Tip: You can absolutely change the size of your v-neck! Simply keep repeating rows 2-3 until it reaches your desired length, and then repeat row 2 once more to finish. If you’d like a shorter v-neck, you can subtract from these rows as well. Just keep in mind everything will stretch when blocking!

Other side of V NECK

Row 1: Go to base of v neck. Sk 1 st. Sc in ea st across.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc until 3 sts left. Dc2tog, dc in last st. Turn. 36 (39, 42, 45, 48, 51) dc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st. Sc2tog. Sc in rest of sts across. 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50) sc.

Rep rows 2-3 a total of 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 12) times more (or until v-neck reaches the same length other side). Then rep row 2 once more. Fasten off.

BACK PANEL

Rep the same as for the front until you reach the v-neck. Then, continue as below:

Next row: Ch 1, sc in ea st across.

Next row: Ch 3, dc in ea sc across.

Rep these two rows until you have done the same amount of rows as other side of the v-neck.

ASSEMBLY

With right sides together, lay your front and back panels together. Sew the shoulder seams using your desired seaming method. Sew side seams, leaving a 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)” arm opening. (Sew along dotted lines shown in picture below!)

FINISHING:

Join yarn at the back of the neck and sc all around the neck opening for a nice finish.

Weave in all ends and block to finished measurements: top should measure 19 (20.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 26.5)” across. Be sure to get a consistent width across.

If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

To view all of my free patterns, click HERE. To get a special bonus straight to your inbox, sign up for my email list below:

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

© 2019 All rights reserved. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern in any way for any public or commercial use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to me and link back to my blog. For info about permission to share pictures/use this pattern in Roundups, please contact me. Thank you!

The post Lunar Lace Tunic—Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on .

In case you haven’t heard, the past 2 weeks we’ve been crocheting along to make to make the Midnight Top, a stylish summer crochet top! I have had SO much fun seeing all the work-in-progress photos in my Facebook Group—which, by the way, is the community for the CAL, so be sure to join it!

If this is the first time you’re seeing this post, be sure to first read the Intro post, and the Part 1 post. There you’ll find all the information you need to make your top, including detailed information about yarn and sizing.

Here we will just cover some quick references (see below) but the other posts cover lots more details.

Quick Links

• To stop reading all these different blog posts and go straight to the printable PDF, click HERE.
• To buy the yarn for this top (Lion Brand Jeans), click HERE.
• To join the CAL community in my Facebook Group, click HERE.
• To read more details about the CAL, click HERE.
• To pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards, click HERE.

THE MIDNIGHT TOP: FREE CROCHET ALONG PART 2

Note: this is PART 2 of the Midnight Top pattern. If you’re just starting your top, be sure to view the post below.

MATERIALS:

• Lion Brand Jeans yarn 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins
• Total yardage needed: Approx. 470 (550, 620, 700, 780) yards worsted weight yarn
• K/6.5mm crochet hook (or size to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle

ABBREVIATIONS/STITCHES USED (U.S. TERMINOLOGY):

Chain – ch

Foundation Single Crochet – fsc

Slip Stitch – sl st

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

Repeat – rep

Round – rnd

Skip – sk

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Space – sp

SPECIAL STITCHES: 

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated stitch.

SIZING

The finished bust size of the top (as long as you obtain gauge) is: 33 (39, 45, 50, 56)”

You can go for a few different looks as far as this top goes. If you want a loose fitting top, then choose a size that is 2-3” larger than your bust. However, if you want a more fitted top, go for either a size that is the same as your bust, or go for negative ease by choosing a size 1-2” smaller than your bust. 

For reference, I chose to make mine with 3” of positive ease. My bust is 30”, and I made a size Small. 

GAUGE:

11 dc = 4”

5 rows of dc = 3”

NOTES

1. This top’s construction is a raglan; it is worked from the top down.

2. Ch 3 at beginning of rnds counts as a stitch.

3. Ch 2 at beginning of rnds does NOT count as stitch.

4. Pattern is written in size S, with sizes M-2XL in parentheses.

INSTRUCTIONS: 

This pattern picks up where Part 1 left off. We finished the yoke in part 1, and now we will join the armholes and continue with the body!

BODY:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in ch-sp of current sh. Ch 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) skip all the dc before next sh. 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh (armhole made), dc in all dc up to next sh. 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh. Ch 3 (4, 5, 6, 7), skip all the dc before next sh, 2 dc in ch-sp of next sh (armhole made), dc in remaining dc. Join with a sl st to beg ch 3.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does NOT count as dc), dc in same st as sl st. Dc in next dc. Dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) chains. Dc in all dc until next set of chains. Dc in next 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) chains. Dc in remaining dcs around. Join with sl st to beg ch 2. 92 (108, 124, 140, 156) dc.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same st as sl st. Dc in ea dc around. Join with a sl st to beg dc.

Rep rnd 2 till work measures 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) inches, or until top is your desired length! (Feel free to adjust the length here!)

Last Rnd: Ch 1, sc in next st. *Ch 3, Sk next st, sc in next st. Rep from * until one st left. Ch 3, Sk last st, sl st in beg sc. Fasten off and weave in ends. 46 (54, 62, 70, 78) ch sps.

FINISHING

Sleeves: Join yarn with a sc at the base of the armpit. Sc evenly around the armhole opening. Join with a sl st to first sc, and fasten off.

Neck: Join yarn with a sc at the back of the neck opening. Sc evenly around the neck opening. Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off, and weave in ends.

That’s it—you’re done! Thank you SO MUCH for participating in my CAL; I’ve had so much fun with you guys!

DON’T FORGET to share your finished pictures in my Facebook Group, and share pictures on Instagram too! I want to see you wearing your new summer top!

Tag me @desertblossomcrafts, and use the hashtag#midnightcal and #themidnighttop so everyone else crocheting along can see as well.

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel 

The post Midnight Top—FREE Crochet Along Part 2 appeared first on .

This is a nice and simple stitch to end of April’s stitches! With only one repeating row for the pattern, you’ll be able to do this stitch fast and easily.

Have you heard about the Desert Blossom Stitch Along? I am running a series all throughout 2019 where I publish four stitch patterns per month—one per week. If you haven’t joined yet, it’s not too late! The great thing about this is that you can jump in at any time. Be sure to join the Stitch Along community in my Facebook group HERE.

You can also view the master list of stitches that have been released so far by clicking HERE! There are definitely some more cool ones you will want to check out. Last week’s stitch was the Interlocking Fan Stitch.

Last thing before we get started on this stitch: If you want to get ahead on the stitches for April, I created a bundle of 4 Spring stitch patterns on Etsy which can be found here. Included is the Box Stitch, plus 3 OTHER lace stitch patterns (all of the ones from April!) The stitches are written out for easy printing. Find this bundle HERE!

How to Crochet the Box Stitch

• To Pin this Tutorial to your Pinterest Boards, click HERE
• To get the PDF version of this pattern (+3 bonus stitch patterns!) click HERE
• To pre-order the ENTIRE Desert Blossom Stitch Along bundle, click HERE

Notes

• Stitch pattern is a multiple of 3+1
• Ch 3 at beginning of rows counts as dc.

Materials

You can potentially use any yarn and hook for this stitch. However, here is what I used:

• Red Heart Super Saver Yarn
• H/8 Crochet Hook

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

1/ Star Ornaments 2/ Sunburst Stitch 3/ Winter Wonderland Cowl

Instructions

Fsc a multiple of 3+1 (to start with a chain stitch, you will need a multiple of 3 + 2, and then a row of single crochet).

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc, here and throughout) dc in next fsc. Ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in next fsc. Rep from * until 3 sts left. Ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in last 2 fsc. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next dc. Ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc. Ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp. Rep from * until 2 dc left. Dc in last 2 dc.

Rep row 2 for stitch pattern!

Did you like this pattern? Be sure to check out the printer-friendly version (plus 3 BONUS stitch patterns—see picture below!)

Click HERE for more information!

Don’t forget to share your stitches with the hashtag #desertblossomstitchalong and tag me on Instagram and Facebook!
To view the master list of all the stitches in my Stitch Along, click HERE.

I hope you have enjoyed this stitch pattern. If you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I would love to help!

Happy Crocheting!

—Rachel

The post How to Crochet the Box Stitch appeared first on .